Mopar1973Man

Very weird. The MAX voltage you should see is the current battery voltage. There is no system in the truck that amplifies voltage above the standard 12V system (~12 to 14.8 volts -running). Need to ohm out from MAP plug to ECM plug. Other DTCs Boost Pressure Sensor - Is it damaged or failed? Try changing it out if you have a spare. 5-volt Supply Circuit - 5V circuit appears to be good according to your post above. MAP Signal Circuit Short To Ground - Is the signal wire shorted to body ground? MAP Signal Circuit Short To Sensor Ground - Is the signal wire shorted to signal ground wire? MAP Sensor - Same as the Boost Pressure Sensor posted above. Intermittent Wiring Problem - For sure a wiring problem being what you've documented in the past. ECM - Highly doubt this at this point.

I'll start my own thread. I finally ditched my old Kenwood Stereo MP3 player. I got to the point I gave up on cutting MP3 discs and audio CD's. I start just using the cellphone. Bit just an awful lot of plugging and unplugging the cellphone just for music. I was hunting around and there is a lot of double DIN stereos out there. Then there is lot of single DIN with flip up screens. I couldn't find any of the flip down screens. I focus back to a single DIN stereo with bluetooth. I stumbled across CACA In Dash Stereo on Amazon for a whole $38 bucks. I was kind of skeptical because of it cheap China made stereo. I'll admit the there are no instructions for this stereo. Basic wire map that all. Rest you on your own. I installed rather easy using my old dash filler plate. I forgot to hook up the antenna. So today I've got the reverse camera hooked up and it works really well. Camer automatically pops up when you shift to reverse. It also cuts the audio / music when you do which is fine. The camera is rather cheap. The bracket is very thin metal. What I did was grabbed another scrap piece of metal and soldered the camera bracket to the scrap metal. Currently, I've got it ziptied to my bumper through the hitch ball holes above. I'll grab fender washers and long bolts and bolt that up to the bumper. I'm slightly offset from center but I can back right up to my trailer easy now.

Don't use ether if you can. It will make your truck an Ether Baby. Wipes the rings out after a while. For a quick fix you can but VERY small spray goes a long way. Make sure the grid heater is removed or disconnected. More here. No PM box...

@int3man Continuing the power system stuff here. As for the power system, I've got an irrigation dam 1/3 mile back on the mountain with a drop of about 240 feet. This gives about 116 to 118 PSI of water pressure on a 1-inch line. The Pelton wheel was custom made by an older gent in Southern Idaho. I'm sure he's long gone now. The generator is an older permanent magnet train generator. The well is an electric pump on a 220 VAC system off the step up transformer and the inverter. The inverter is an older Trace Inverter 4,000 Watts at 120VAC. The water from the Pelton wheel is routed to a pond in the back yard for fire suppression.

No start will most likely occur at +20*F. Between +20*F and +30*F its a tough start longer cranking and stuttering when it does light off. Longer cranking is the downside and excessive starter wear. Then added run time required to keep the batteries charged up. I've seen guys eat the starter before eating the batteries. Starter gets hot on long excessive cranking.

Ummm... If your morning start is below +30*F out then yes you'll need grid heaters. Above +30*F I never even think to wait for the grid heaters I just fire up and go.

Why? MAP sensor rarely goes bad. Just buy a normal MAP sensor and install. Heavy Duty isn't going to change anything.

Small chunk of hose and two squeeze clamps. Then steel tube.

The steel line goes up over the top of the oil filter.

You could be it does mean it solves the AC noise issue. Diodes still fail just the same. The key problem is no matter how big of an alternator you buy the problem is always there. The problem is you start up and then the grid heater are banging away at idle (800 RPM's). The alternator is spinning at idle speeds too so now there is no cooling for the diodes and they get hot and fail. No alternator is designed to charge at full load at idle speed. A solution. Even works for stock alternators. Install a Quadzilla and set the high idle for a 15-second delay. Now the idle is brought up to 1,200 RPM increasing the cooling ability of the alternator as well its ability to charge and handle that 190 amp load. Poor man solution. Don't leave it idle to warm up. Start it up and get moving instantly. Once the vehicle is moving faster than 25 MPH grid heaters are canceled. @IBMobile is making a grid heater control switch that allows for disabling the grid heater without an error code. Smog state compliant.

Where? Maybe 2 inches here...

Sure only if I had the right wife. Takes two to make a family and offspring. Kind of hard to do as a single guy... Be totally honest. I've been slapped in public for cracking a joke to my date. Just trying to be funny. Three gals I've been with end the relationship because I either didn't pay all there bills for them or didn't have enough income to be there sugar daddy. One went as far as asking MoparMom to sell her house and pay for her house. True story. Even while MoparMom went in the hospital I got dumped that same day because I was able to spend money on her because Mom was in the hospital. OMG! Seriously? Got dumped and had my Mom possibly dying... I've been abused by women more than once... Maybe that why I'm still single. I've had enough of having my heart torn from my chest and then stomped on, then kicked to the curb. Now I currently sitting on the fence waiting for my medical bills to pop and ring out the final number. I really can't afford to have a date or wife right now. Being most of my income will be going right back out the door. Like buying another truck again.

No. Because both valves are closed. So there is only pressure in the cylinder. No pressure in the intake manifold or the exhaust manifold. Pull the head. Then inspect the cylinders. While the head is removed have the head serviced. Like my total bill between the head work, ARP studs and a gasket kit was close to $2,000. Mine was already leaking oil about 1 quart every 3k miles past the valve guides. Very easy to tell start it up and it could fill my garage with oil smoke and you could smell it. Valve seals can be done without removing the head. Problem is if the valve seal has failed most likely the valve guides did too because like in my case I had chunks of valve seals all in the top of the head. This is caused by the valve rocking in the guides and it tears the valve seals.

You can make the pipe from 1/2" copper plumbing and solder the pieces together. The tube mounts to the manifold behind the turbo.

I'm heading for 50... Ugh! Single life is very very boring. As for me, I've managed to knock my blood pressure way down. As for my bladder issue, I'm waiting for the current storm and weather system to stop before committing on a second surgery which the doctor wants to do to explore my bladder one last time.

Could be even the clutches are worn out in the rear axle. Wrong lubricant or not enough friction modifier. I would open it up and inspect everything. Some times you are forced to do jobs you really don't want to do. Better of that way knowing what is going on.

Now he better come home. https://forecast.weather.gov/showsigwx.php?warnzone=IDZ011&warncounty=IDC003&firewxzone=IDZ401&local_place1=12 Miles S Riggins ID&product1=Winter+Storm+Warning&lat=45.2453&lon=-116.3321#.XHFDknVKgzA URGENT - WINTER WEATHER MESSAGE National Weather Service Boise ID 532 AM MST Sat Feb 23 2019 ...A PACIFIC STORM WILL BRING HEAVY SNOW THIS WEEKEND INTO NEXT WEEK... .A storm system is moving into the Pacific Northwest today, and will last into early next week. This will bring a prolonged period of moderate to heavy snowfall to the central Idaho mountains, and light to moderate snow to Baker County and the Upper Weiser River Basin. Snow has already begun in the mountains as of 5 am this morning. Starting this afternoon, gusty winds will accompany the snowfall resulting in blowing and drifting snow in some areas. Light snow accumulations are possible in the Snake Plain this morning through Sunday morning, with a changeover to rain Sunday afternoon. Sheltered low-elevation valleys in Baker county and the Weiser River basin could hold onto snow into Monday. IDZ011-013-028-232215- /O.CON.KBOI.WS.W.0004.000000T0000Z-190227T0000Z/ West Central Mountains-Boise Mountains-Camas Prairie- 532 AM MST Sat Feb 23 2019 ...WINTER STORM WARNING REMAINS IN EFFECT UNTIL 5 PM MST TUESDAY... * WHAT...Heavy snow and blowing snow. Travel will be very difficult to impossible at times. Total snow accumulations of 18 inches to 3 feet, with localized amounts up to 5 feet in the highest west-facing elevations, are expected. Gusty winds will develop starting this afternoon and last through Tuesday, resulting in blowing and drifting snow. * WHERE...West Central Mountains, Boise Mountains and Camas Prairie zones. * WHEN...Until 5 PM MST Tuesday. * ADDITIONAL DETAILS...Winds gusting as high as 35 mph will cause areas of blowing and drifting snow. PRECAUTIONARY/PREPAREDNESS ACTIONS... A Winter Storm Warning for snow and blowing snow means severe winter weather conditions are occurring. If you must travel, keep an extra flashlight, food and water in your vehicle in case of an emergency. The latest road conditions can be obtained by calling 5 1 1. Then the forecast here... https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=45.24525270653619&lon=-116.3321042060852&site=mso&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text#.XHFDrXVKgzB

Glad I never wasted money on diff covers.

Ummm... Someone's nasty idea of plumbing... It suppose to be a steel pipe from the fitting in the front to just behind the turbo. Then 2 short hoses from the fittings to the firewall. There is nothing I know of for coolant at the front like what you got...

Umm... No link or video posted.

I'm so behind right now it's not even funny.

Cool I'm going to look tomorrow down at Ontario... Thanks @trreed LEDs ordered... Snail mail be awhile till they get here.

Same here at 355k miles and the head gasket leak.

Watch closely. Now you might have to chase the cloud and take a sniff of it. Oil smoke is going to be mostly white with bluish tint. It will for sure smell like burnt oil. Now bad injectors or low pop pressure can do the same thing but when you chase the cloud and sniff the cloud will smell of fuel and might burn your eyes. Both types of smoke look about the same but there is a for sure smell difference. Remember we are oil burners by design...

Link please. This is the only thing that is stopping me.