Mopar1973Man

No issues as of yet. I get more "thank you" and good comments from people and law enforcement for open carrying. Never once had any issues. Most of the restaurants, coffee shops, and stores I visit the owners and employees love the fact I carry openly. They feel more secure. In Oregon, it's legal to open carry never had any issues with law enforcement at all. Even while making my bicycle rides or shopping in these stores. Idaho now is concealed carry without a permit and even then never had any issues with laws enforcement. I think I've been open carry now for like close to 10 years.

All charging systems have a small amount of AC noise. We need to know how much because 10mV AC to about 30mV AC is normal. Above 50mV AC the random issues start. Then above 100mV AC the problems get worse. Please report what AC voltage you measured. You'll have to call around to find a place that does AC ripple testing and willing to report a voltage value. Remember this is a FULL LOAD value where our test is idle state test.

I replied to the other post on the 6V issue.

Suggestion. Take that plate off and pull the plug loose from the plate. Now zip tie the plugs to the loom on the cowl. You'll find they move over towards the driver side a bit more. Then they are always out of the way. Lift pump positive lead yellow/white is from the ECM directly. The Black/White lead is grounded behind the starter. You might check the ground lead. Yeah you have to pull the starter out to see it even. you can test by red probe in the yellow/white and then black probe to battery negative. If 12V is present then the ground is most likely bad.

We've got our own Northwest group too. Just look at the member map.

Bingo. Gotcha!

Might want to test for alternator noise. Then also consider doing the W-T ground wire mod.

Need to keep that one going... I'm going to send that o my FB page. 2nd Admenment was to for people to protect themselves from the Gov't! Dummies... I will continue to open carry...

@Shainer 280 bar = 4061.06 PSI 293 bar = 4249.61 PSI 300 bar = 4351.13 PSI 305 bar = 4423.65 PSI 310 bar = 4496.17 PSI 320 bar = 4641.21 PSI Just raising the pressure at which the spray is delivered at. Once injectors starts to fall below 293 bar it starts to lose efficiency on the MPG side. Performance is still good for quite a ways but it starts to suffer below the 280 bar.

Just like @Me78569 mentions going above the 310 bar is totally experimental. I've opted for the 320 bar. The stock injector pop pressure is 310 bar. I want a set of injectors that make 100k miles as the factory injectors did. I know that injectors settle after a period of time and the pop pressure falls off slightly in a short amount of mileage. I'm doing this for my own study work as well. So far ZERO starting issues cold. MPG has been OK but I'm not being fair because of recent activity that forced me to drive harder than normal. I will admit that my MPG offset is back down to the 140% I had set for the worn out 7 x 0.0085 injectors they only lasted 75k miles roughly. Flow is reduced with higher pop pressure, MPG is a bit better but hard to tell yet. I've still got that "purring lope" coming to stop which is totally harmless. That's exactly my thought on the 320 bar pop. @pepsi71ocean reported that in about 28k miles his injectors were at about 280 bar which is below the 293 bar lower limit. I know he's reported that its clear up smoke and running better. He's running +100 HP. As for some of the past post where guys jumped to 330 bar and higher then there was starting issues in the cold winter weather.

Yeah, yeah, yeah... Been there done that. I've seen rain so bad in Cally that streets looked like washes. Just flooded and running water every where. But next month they will scream drought.

Cold start... Still love the fact I'm upstairs with my cellphone on my desk and its plugged into my computer. I'm reading the data from the truck below in the garage idling and warming up before I leave. I can monitor the truck without having to be right there in the cab. Few minutes later... Then a minute later yet... Now dropped high idle. Fully warmed up. Extended idle is normal to sit at 16*.

I thought you wanted to move to Idaho...

The wicked one would be carb dip.... BUT carb dip will eat all rubber seals and o-ring out of the pump. This is another concern that you have to be watchful. If the solvent dries out the seal or eats then you might create a new issue as well.

Most likely would work just need to get the wire map and hook it up.

7 x 0.010 would be awesome starting point. Make sure to ask for higher pop pressure.

Classic low pop pressure. My stock injectors did the same them engine load dropped out and idling near 850 to 900 RPMs. 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar idles lower like 780 to 800 RPM with a 13-14% engine load.

I've been passing plow truck for years. Idaho plow truck driver 35 MPH. Hold up massive amounts of traffic. The only way to keep traffic moving is go around the plow truck. Even if the truck is just spreading salt they drive 35 MPH in 65 MPH speed zone. If you drive behind an Idaho plow truck the red and yellow light will eventually blind you from all the bright flashing. You are forced either to wreck in the ditch (not an option for me) or go around so you can see. Now like the last trip back there was a road grader that was driving along the highway at 30 MPH with his rear flood lights on blinding all vehicles following making impossible to see to pass or even follow. I took the chance and darted out and left him too. No, I will not follow a plow truck as he's dumping salt or driving super slow. I will pass.

If the pump is not installed in the truck then you can load the pump with any solvent you wish. Then drain it out and them load it up with diesel fuel and soak a bit more. I

All parts inside the pump are hardened steel. Plunger seen here pulled out on the rotor head. Here are the cam ring and the rollers and shoes that pump the plungers.

Man those are the kind of people I hate from down in the Weiser - Ontario area. Man, they go into full panic mode. Drive 15 to 25 MPH everywhere. Pick out the little car without 4WD. Then close down schools and cities practically because of a little snow on the ground. When you live in the backcountry you learn how to live without a lot of stuff and get used to driving long distances in bad conditions. Even the goofy ones from Boise that heading for McCall ID, Go home! if you can't handle snow. This isn't for the faint of heart.

No. ATF will not clean that up. You'll need a solvent based cleaner but this will shorten the life of the VP44. WARNING: ATF should not be used because of the anti-scorching compounds, ash content is very high and friction modifiers. These will not burn at all and leave lots of ash deposits in your piston bowl and injector tips. ATF from back in the 1970s was nothing more that red dye hydraulic oil back in the day. Today it heavily modified lubricant to hold up to more heat, friction, and stress without burning. Not a good idea. Xylene, Naptha, etc. There is a lot of products out there that contain these chemical make sure to not to overdose or overuse the product.

Yeap... It is. Big tires only give HALF the lift. Always measures out from the ground to the center of the hub which is HALF of the total height of the tire. I only lost 0.55 inches from 265's (31.6") to 245's (30.5") in axle clearance. But change my final gear ratio from 3.55 to 3.69:1 You only gained 1.7 inches from 265 (31.6") to 35" x 12.50" R16 tire. You lost on the gear ratio. 35 / 2 = 17.5" to the hub center. 31.6 / 2 = 15.8" to the hub center. 30.5 / 2 = 15.25" to the hub center. Sorry, the math doesn't lie... You'll lose a bit more on the squat of the tire depending on the air pressure you run too. Like I just check to the hub center on mine is about 14.5" with tire squat.

This is the closest I've got... 1994 to 1997 are pretty much the same.

Had this same discussion with another member. So I'm running 245/75 R16 (30.5" tire) vs. your 35" tire. Since the axle is bolted at the center the difference is 15.25" at the center of the hub. 17.5" at the center of the hub for only 2.25" difference. Yeah, the diff hangs lower. 2.25" isn't a big difference. Even if I came back to factory 265/75 R16 (31.6" tire) which is 15.8" at the center. Now only 1.7" inch difference in axle height.