Mopar1973Man

No... @Yankneck696 had dropped out about 4 years ago. He was in Utah then moved and never heard again.

With my setup I had to retard some. I was running 21-22° at 2k cruising. Now backed down 19-20° at 2k doing testing these last few tanks have to tossed out with 4WD and heavy foot operation.

Whew! I've been shoveling and plowing for 2 hours and still not done... Yeah, the snow pile at the end is over 4 foot tall now. Wet, heavy snow. Ugh! Not for plastic shovels... Make things more fun now the power is starting to wink and blink here. Time to equalize charge the house batteries and check the electrolytes.

Man... we are getting slammed with snow. I'm going to spend a better part of my day digging out again. Then I got to get repairs done to the truck. Mostly basic maintenance. I will admit I've got one of the best snow rigs in the area. Had a long day yesterday. I ended up taking MoparMom to the hospital to be checked out. Dialysis clinic wasn't sure of here issues, Yes she fine we are both at home. By the time we got done in Merdian ID and left head back for US95 for home, it was like 7 pm. Ate a bit of KFC and hauled butt. Somewhere around Council, ID it started snowing and sticking. By the time I hit Tamarack Mill the road was gone and filling with snow. I never backed down I kept the truck rolling at 50 to 60 MPH with 4WD and haulin' butt still. HID headlights on low beam just cutting through the blinding snow and able to see. Very very stable and still passing little cars rolling alone in a panic mode at 15 to 25 MPH. Pass then and kick back up to 50 to 60 MPH kept rolling. 4WD and exhaust brake worked are great. Drop the throttle and the truck slows down nicely. The only thing I wish I would have done is to turn the Quadzilla down to Level 3. I still had level 7 and every time the wiretap hit boost would bang, all 4 tires would spin. Down in the Boise Valley, the wiretap was great but in the snow on a narrow highway, not a good idea. Now, this morning I've checked all the road camera and its snow from my place south to about Weiser, ID from what I can figure. The highway is fully covered yet and not good. My own place I'm buried in and going to spend about 2 hours digging out so I can get my daily tasks done.

Remember Bosch lower pop pressure is 293 bar (4,249 PSI). Your quoted 3,000 PSI to 3,600 PSI is 200 bar to 248 bar. All junk... Just because they still run doesn't mean they are still good. This brings up why I popped mine above. Most injector builders pop at 300 to 305 bar. Little settling time and you are below the 293 bar in no time. Ask for at least 310 bat which is factory spec. This is good for smaller injectors. I opted for the 320 bar on the 7 x 0.010 injectors.

Check the fuse. If the fuse is blown the pump motor is locked up. Most likely the pump to motor seal failed and now there is most likely fuel leaking from the pump. WARNING: Do not install a bigger fuse. If the 20A fuse blows a second time the pump motor is locked.

Not a waste of time just gotta take some time to learn. Full temp it should idle at 12°. Always work with a fully warm truck when tuning. 10 to 15 mile drive get it nice and warm.

I see roughly 21° on a cold start. True timing is always after fully warmed. Then you aim for about 19° at 2,000 RPM in cruise state.

The that being said I would test the +5V pin for the 5V. Then for safety check the sensor ground to ECM ohm wise.

Are we talking ECM 5V regulated power or PCM voltage regulator?

Still might have to call Qaudzilla might have a boost cooler problem. Try unhooking and see if the code clears up on the ECM.

What is you engine load at idle? What is the idle speed?

We will see.

19° at 1500 RPM is rather high. Typically 19° at 1900 to 2000 RPM. Is more normal. How old are your injectors?

Power steering fluid full? I'm thinking of all the devices on the driver side.

Higher video quality means biggervfiles and longer upload times. Reduce the quality and the files get smaller and upload times shorter.

A/C drain stubs out the firewall to the ground. The blower motor vent into the case with a rubber tube.

Boost leak?

Nothing. Just a plastic stub that connects to nothing.

https://mopar1973man.com/contact/

Forgot one seal. Re-do the drain seal at the bottom of the evaporator. Battery bolt coat the bolts in oil and they never rust.

or... Like I was trying to do is just get a seal kit and seal the leaks. All the gears and parts typically are re-used and just readjusted for tight tolerances. There are only 2 bearings to replace. Seal kit is like $35 bucks if I remember right. Super easy to rebuild. The only thing it is a pain is the 22 BB's that go back in the worm gear. Not impossible but interesting.

Sure I'll even buy that for $50 bucks.

I sent my core in and Ryan @Blue-Top Steering had mine rebuilt and sold within mere hours and gone.

Error codes? Fuel pressure? Injector line hold downs?