Mopar1973Man

Heck, I could break out the "high cetane" drink. Nothing would get done. I don't know if we could get all the injector installed...

Here is my guide.

Too bad you not closer. I would break out the beer and we would do a nice long injector change at about 3 to 4 hours. I would have to invite @JAG1 to just drop bolts in miscellaneous tubes and holes in the engine.

Practice grasshopper, practice...

First tank used my old tune from the 7 x 0.0085 injectors drop to mere 15 MPG. Then after stiff retarding now hit 19 MPG. The older 17 to 18 MPG was with the old 7 x 0.0085 injectors cranked up to about 21 to 22 degrees cruise timing to reach that much. Below 20 degrees it sunk into the 16 to 17 MPG range. What I'm figuring out the injection even is still very close to correct timing. But the fuel atomization is finer and easier to ignite vs. low pop pressure that creates bigger droplets and requires more timing to burn all the fuel. Larger the droplets the more timing is required. Now with the higher pop pressure I had to retard because of negative torque. I was way high to keep the old injectors running at least high teens (21 to 22 dregrees). Now I'm only running more retarded (18 degrees) and managed to grab 19 MPG on the last tank. The first tank of the 7 x 0.010 I had left my old tune from the 7 x 0.0085 and it rattled excessively and power wasn't good at all.

What were the injectors popped to? I'm assuming you are running the same 7 x 0.010 VCO I'm running. Running twins you should be able to clear the smoke up quickly. I tend to lean back on the injectors because if the pop pressure is too low the smoke will be tough to clean up. This is due to the fact the droplets are too big and will take more timing to clean up -or- increase the pop pressure. This is a reason I opted for 320 bar when DAP built my 7 x 0.010 injectors. I'm working on cleaning up with full wiretap now but only running HX35/40 hybrid (60/60/12). More on my play time.

Still playing. Guilty as charged...

On a hot engine, I can do it in under 1 hour. Ask @hex0rz . He showed up at my place at 6pm and had him rolling with my spare set by 7pm heading south. I will admit I didn't get #2 line tight enough and was leaking. 8 mm socket (inch-pound torque bar) 10 mm socket 11 mm socket 13 mm socket 15 mm socket 19 mm wrench Small flat blade Pull the APPS sensor roll to one side with the 13mm. Loosen the boot clamp with the 11mm and then pull the dipstick 10mm and the 4 10mm grid heater bolts. Roll this to the driver side. Stuff a rag in the manifold hole. Remove the 4 10mm bolts holding the injector line to the manifold. Remove the 2 15mm bolts for the rear hoist ring. Loosen the 5 10mm bolts for the valve cover. Slide to the right and over the heater hose and then bring it forward to remove. Loosen all injector lines with the 17mm wrench. Using a small flat blade screwdriver carefully pry the crossover tubes out just enough and carefully flex the line so it can sneak past slightly. The line will hold in place. Now using the 8mm socket remove the injector hold downs. Using the short grid heater bolt screw into the top of the injector and pull up. To remove the injectors. Check that all coppers are on the old injectors. If not fish them out before installing new injectors. Just reverse to install. 8mm bolt is 89 inch-pounds on the injector hold downs. The cross over tubes is tightened before the injector hold downs are torqued. This allows the crossover tubes to center the injectors to make a good seal. Injector line torque I will just snug at the beginning. Once the engine is running I'll loosen till the miss is heard then snug till it stops. Then add about another 1/8 or 1/4 of turn at most. Over torquing is not suggested. The average time is about one hour to change injectors.

What I'm thinking is like my ABS issue. I had my ABS module rebuilt. Then tested all the wiring and 0.01 Ohms end to end. As for pin to ground was infinite. What I found out was the tone ring broke and spun in the hub. Very detectable with @Chris O. CCD network tool. The tone ring did not show any speed below 30 MPH but rises above that it snapped to speed and was true. I'm wondering if the tone ring is slipping or out of index. Remember there is the cam sensor that is a single tooth denoting TDC #1 so if the index of the crank is not in time it might (guessing) throw the P0336 code. I heard of a few stories of the tone ring coming loose but not sure if it was true ore not. We can rule out ECM, wiring and sensor. This only leaves the timing of the tone ring or is the tone ring slipping.

Some tech stuff learned. With higher pop pressures like I'm running 320 bar you need to retard timing, not advance it. Current running 13, 17, 21, 25 for timing. Already hit 19 MPG and still rising. Cruise timing is +2. My cruise EGT's are really low like 55 MPH I float 400°F to 500°F. At 65 MPH its just below 600°F. Engine load is below 20% most times. Idle is 13% engine load. Max boost I've seen so far with this and even tripped my high boost light was 50 PSI. The boost light is set for 45 PSI. @Dieselfuture quoted 182% MPG offset. This will be incorrect for me and way too high. I'm closer to 140% still. Gotta get a few tanks a fuel to get the actual offset number correct. Low pop pressure injectors will idle way low in engine load my previous 7 x 0.0085 injectors are idling engine load of about 5%. ECM was trying to cut fuel to keep RPM at 800 RPM. Where high pop pressure will idle higher than typical where the 320 bar is 13%. Now the ECM is adding fuel to overcome the higher pop pressure. Make a for sure bet on detecting injector pop pressure by engine load. Higher pop pressure can possibly create a lope to the idle. In my case is only during my coast to a stop where the VP44 typically holds the idle up slightly this period my setup has a "purring lope" and when I come to stop it idles smooth as glass right at 800 RPM. No launching or stalling issues. Very manageable, kind of cool sounding coming to stop in traffic. Power wise you must be very careful and manage your power carefully. This is no joke. 7 x 0.010 @ 320 Bar and 245/75 R16 tires is really mean combo. Even with my CANBus starting at 75% to a max of 120% not even using the last 30%. Now my wiretap is set for the bottom at 1,200us. This is a crazy amount of power the only gear that I can lay it on is 5th gear. All other gears you have to baby the throttle other than that the tires will spin. Even on dry asphalt or concrete road surface it can and will spin loose when the boost jumps suddenly. You can use the power level to split up the wiretap more or drop to level 3 and run strictly CANBus only.

Man... The only thing I'm not getting over is getting up in the morning hurting. Lower back and hips are sore in the morning still. It's a morning struggle to get rolling. Like this morning I'm going to fight through it and keep my mental clarity and try and get some article writing done. Being I've got nowhere to go I'm fine with that. Even though my bladder is healing well it still hurts every morning. I continue to refuse the pain meds that the hospital gave me. Typically on my mornings here at home, I tend to hit the cannabis just a bit to dull the pain and then by the time sunrise is here I'm pretty much pain-free but mentally a bit slow too. I hate that part of it. Ugh. The other part is I live in a 2 story house where climbing stairs is a must. Not exactly my idea with sore hips and lower back. Later on, I've got to pack in firewood this morning I just used my last 4 pieces of firewood.

That is weird to look at. 12V valve covers and head but a VP44 pump tied to 12V injectors. That is a really weird beast. Maybe we should start selling 12V upgrade kits for p-pump to VP44 conversion kits.

I know on the front of my truck the bump stops are untouched yet. As for the rear I've managed to load it heavy enough a few time to make contact on the bounce. I'll look in the daylight what my measurement are.

I know the trailer was ~7,000 dry weight. Plus the five one-ton bails (10,000 pounds) so the trailer was approximately 17,000 pounds. I know my truck is roughly 7,500 pounds curb weight.

Go big...

Hmmm... ECM been swapped. P0336 code is crank sensor performance error. Can you drive with the o-scope hooked up? I wonder if the signal is getting dirty or dropping out.

Technically anytime the batteries are disconnected you should do APPS reset. How important is it? Well I can't remember the last time I actually done an APPS reset.

No need to buy cable. All the charge can be salvaged and reused. Even the ground wire on passenger side can be reused for the driver side.

Tires are they properly inflated? I know larger tires don't help the return process. Any alignment issues? Pulling to one side? Tires not wearing even?

Not yet. Laying on the shop bench.

Might try the Rancho 5100 those did very well for me for over 150k miles. The KYB Gas-A-Just are doing good as well

Only 50k miles on my OE pump.

Which axle? Front or rear?

You whipped my high mark of 243k.

I realize this as well. I'm not after HP alone. This why I want to do my own experimentation to see the effects of pop pressure for daily driver applications and MPG goals more so than HP/TQ goals. I'm willing to sacrifice some HP/TQ for the longevity of the injectors and MPG performance. Like another brand of injector, I was given I refuse to install because the builder didn't want to provide full details of the injector. Nope, not happening. I already know that anything set for 305 bar or 300 bar I can promise the injectors will not make it a full 100k miles and be getting pissy and MPG dropping out. Morning white smoke as well. I'm tired of all the builders only thinking priority is HP/TQ. I want longevity and MPG performance. Even smoke control of the 320 bar is awesome very easy to clean up. Once I get done with my MPG tune getting it close I'll build a performance tune going all out power. Like my 7 x 0.0085 @ 305 bar didn't even make the full 100k miles. MPG on my last few tanks are down to 16 to 17 MPG. These are only 2 years old. The spray quality is shot. The beginning was good strong 20 and 21 MPG number and faded over time. Just got to remember 293 bar is the bottom end of the quality spray. This is why I jumped to the 320 bar allow for settling of the injectors and will end up in the 310 to 315 bar range and optimal.