Mopar1973Man

@Me78569 I've got to ask what do you have on the clock?

Clue. More boost you see going down the road means typically your burning more fuel. I've got to ask what is your engine load and boost pressure like at highway speeds? Boost you should be below 5 PSI for 65 MPH. Engine load should be around 20% or lower if possible. Injectors what are you running? What was the pop pressure at? How many miles on the injectors?

Not to argue... But... if that is true you better keep a generator and cord in the bed of the truck anytime you go anywhere. Once you leave home what is going to warm it up when you away from power? Like myself I can stop at our morning breakfast stop in Weiser by the time we are done with breakfast on a single digit morning I can lose all the coolant temperature. I've seen this a bunch in minus weather. I gave up on the whole block heater thing and look for ways of generating heat when in the field. Hence the high idle kit. Too many time gone to fire calls and being in the middle of nowhere. Yes in Idaho there are still homes without power to this day. Yeah, power I create most of my own.

The only reason for 1/2" lines is pressure stability. 3/8" lines work OK for stockish trucks. When you start to see wild pressure swings its time to go up in size. I just opted for large lines in the beginning and just not worry about it.

There is a method to my madness. That why I've got a hidden phone number listing for all users this makes it super easy for my to reach out and help you or possible make contact to possibly get help for other members. As for you @Bacon Creek Metal I was cheating and didn't feel like typing more. So I cheated and called.

Bad idea. No RTV or sealant should be used on that gasket. Should be all 1/2" fuel lines from the fuel tank to the VP44. HX35/40 Hybrid is basically same as HE351 turbo on the 3rd Gens. The only different my exhaust housing is 12cm2 vs 9cm2 .

I don't bother with a block heater at all. Since 99.9% of the time I'm climbing out of the canyon heading south. The grade gets heat in the cab by about 2-3 miles easy. Most mornings I will let it idle for about 5 to 10 minutes before leaving too.

Now I'm scratching my head for sure. Ther rear lever if it hooked up should reduce the amount of braking force on the rear axle if still hooked up normally. You having issues of locking up. The only thing I can say is inspect the drums for rust of hardware issues.

That was me in Cally. Now being ticket free for nearly 25 years. I know when its safe to wind the old Cummins to a C note. Rare but I've done it a few times.

CCD network will shut it all down. No way to communicate information. CCD + and CCD - are pairs. Basically, there is a signal ground that is all mirror image. So if one line or the other is grounded or missing then the computer ignore the other signal because its missing the mate and the existing signal is considered all noise.

I gotta say thank to all the Good Wishes. I'm still going fairly strong. Like I targeted @Bacon Creek Metal last night and talk to him on the phone. He might make a plan to stop by someday soon. Like today I'll be busy getting my paperwork together for the hospital. I might hand delivery the papers to McCall so to get the ball rolling quicker. Then I've also got to make an appointment for CT scan this week (Wed or Fri) to have my right kidney look at again. It also gotta be used responsibly. That is why it got a bad wrap now because all the pups want it just to get stoned where guys like me need it for a medical and healing reason. It is a wonderful herb and does so many things when you study up on it. It can deal with so many health issues it unbelievable. Like I tell everyone this is all a big mistake. This wasn't supposed to happen. I'll admit the whole website was a total mistake. I bought the truck brand new never own a diesel and never been to diesel school at all. Everything from 2004 forward was me just trying to save my own time. I created a few web pages to keep from typing over and over. Then add my email address. The idea grows into what you see today which I'm trying to handle 1,900 per day and close to 34,000+ people per month. Everything I've learned is from experiences of my own problems or from people around me and helping with here problems. Like today I still continue to learn new tricks and idea. The only thing the Good Lord wants me to do is to share my knowledge. I thought to be a teacher but here I am doing just that. Man, that is rough from what I read up on it. I'm glad you found a natural way of dealing with the issue. As for me, I've got 5 vials of pills on the counter and absolutely don't want to touch them. All they do is compound the problem and make me feel worse with other problems as side effects trying to fix the main problem. Not happening. Like my pain meds make you constipated. Blood pressure pills make you loopy. There is one for bladder spasms that adds to the constipated. Then anti-biotic we'll I used those up. I switched over to cannabis, Hawthorn berry, turmeric, exercise and eating more veggies and fruit fewer meats. I've lost about 10 pounds since the start. I'm feeling stronger and better. I'm also riding a bicycle up to 12 miles when I'm down in Ontario, OR.

Valve lash. I would check and see if the valve lash is within specs. Might be few valves too tight.

Nope. Cell service was 20 miles ago. Landline works. Also the WiFi cell number works.

Not really. @Me78569 does my solder work. Then I've got a harness company in Caldwell, ID that builds the cables. I just assemble the parts in a bag. Pack a box and mail it. Well like most know. TTS (Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday) I'm on the road. Like I'm on my weekend (Sunday and Monday).

No. Just tight fit and then solder them to the wire. Much better than crimping. Good flow of solder through the middle and completely welded together.

Need to look at your local electric shops and see what they can get you. Like myself, I can get all kind of harness covering. I'll just go catch up with my harness builder for my High Idle Kits.

Crazy idea would be to pull the front two cab bolts lightly lift the cab up slightly just for the aid of removal. Lot of people say the Cummins can be lifted out without much effort. If the cab is sagging down it would make it a fight to get the oil pan over the cross member.

Is it still hooked up? Or.. Is the arm disconnected and wired up in position?

No. I do it all right on the engine. Way too many years of solder work. I've gotten good using just plain old propane torch and roll of solder. No vise. No heatsinks. Heat up, apply solder move on. @JAG1 just like a plumber would with copper pipe. Heated and soldered on the vehicle. Heated and soldered on the vehicle. Look at the intercooler pipe you can see where it got heated. Grey spot. Secret... Automotive wiring is design to tolerate much more heat of the engine and normal operation. This allows for using the propane torch and solder. The trick is to place your lug and the heat only the lug not the wire. Apply your solder and the solder will naturally wick up in the copper.

You can always ask the questions here and people are more than willing to help. We do have a fairly good article database full of all kinds of information and support for the Cummins engines. LOL. When I was doing ARP studs on the head I was trying to figure out how to get the exhaust side by the cowl inserted in the head. I used a 2x6 and a floor jack and just lifted the body just a little bit and the stud fell in its holes like its meant to. The factory body rubber mounts tend to well squeeze together over time.

Sounds like the o-rings need replacing for sure. I've got to ask how many miles on the injectors? It might be time to consider re-popping or replacing if close to 100k miles. MAP sensor codes. If the ground wire is open it could now produce the P0238 code because of no ground bias so the voltage would be high. The P0237 would be the +5V lead loose or becoming open circuit which would be low voltage. I've got to ask do you have the 2001 MAP sensor or the 2002 MAP sensor? If you have the 2001 MAP sensor you should have the adapter harness.

Nope, you do have the RWAL system. So the rear speed sensor is important but you said the speedometer is working correctly and smooth. On the ABS system, the only thing it could be is either one of solenoids is stuck or debris in the system. The only thing I could think of since there is no ABS light I would say its either hydraulic or mechanical issue.

I typically just use a propane torch to do heavy gauge wire work soldering.

Sorry I missed it. @Marcus2000monster yeah the tool came back it's here. Neighbor picks up my mail for me keep things dry.

Timing is not even. Like mine above is +3.7 evenly spaced. 16 + 3.7 = 19.7 + 3.7 = 23.4 + 3.7 = 27.1 RPM is linear and timing should follow the same linear scale. 16 + 2 = 18 + 7 = 25 + 3 = 28 Your timing is not linear. It all over the place. Here is a tool I made that helps... performance tune.xlsx Just change the blue blocks in my spreadsheet.