Mopar1973Man

I can refer you to @Auto Computer Specialist which is a good company to deal with for ECM and PCM repairs. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/196-auto-computer-specialist/

Just depends on when and if the ECM refuses to boot up again.

WalMart for some crazy reason doesn't stock 2 Cycle Oil through the winter time. I typically stock up in the fall or the year and in the early spring of the year.

Best to pull the entire HVAC case and clean it properly. The other hacks don't work but as a band-aid. This one I had to pull the evaporator out and power wash with a 3,000 PSI power washer to get all the dirt out the middle. Then if I tried to clean in the truck the grass and hay would of plugged it all back up again. After I was done I got complaints from the owner that the heater was cooking him to death and had to roll down the windows to keep from cooking in the cab. Best to do the job right the first time.

1998.5 and 1999 ECM are know weak ECM's and tend to fail to flash tuners. They have a very low flash count limit and can fail in this way. The only thing you can do is send that ECM in to be repaired and or replaced. Once you get it repaired I suggest you ditch that tuner and consider a Quadzilla at least that doesn't flash the ECM.

I've been known to use just about all names of 2 cycle oil. Stihl Chainsaw 2 cycle oil PennzOil 2 cycle oil Quaker State 2 cycle oil YamaLube 2 cycle oil Injex 2 cycle oil (snowmobile). List goes on most all 2 cycle oil today is ashless. Don't have to limit yourself to just Walmart.

I don't suggest it. The ash levels are way too high and will create ash deposits on the injectors. This is why the whole WEO (waste engine oil) and ATF idea was given up years ago. Not worth the problems. Even virgin oil is high in ash content doesn't matter if it used or not.

Most all modern 2 cycle oil is fine. The only thing I don't suggest is Synthetic 2 cycle oil. Synthetic 2 cycle oil is just way too expensive to burn like fuel. Then most synthetic 2 cycle oil doesn't have a PPD (Pour Point Depressant) which this is what helps out with gelling issues.

Fan belts can do weird things too if the belt is too worn between the ribs it can make random noises at different RPM's.

@Dynamic just built up a hemi engine for his little truck you might talk to him.

Thank you @Alterego ... Waiting for the write up.

Try looking this over... He's got a solution now.

PDC relay is the VP44. You need the relay for you lift pump. Typically elsewhere.

I did a clamp on series on my 46RE in the 1996 Dodge 1500. The sensor clamps on the line and the probe end is pressed against the line. Then you wrap insulation foam around the sensor and zip tie.

Main ground points... Interior and headlights are in the driver side kick panel. Some exterior stuff is grounded at the driver side headlight there is a ground stud. Main ground for ECM, PCM and VP44 are on the passenger side battery terminal. Double check all fuses. Like @pepsi71ocean had his brother do some wire work and misunderstood the directions and cut the power to the PCM. Then wired up the voltage regulator for the transmission. This created a weird case where if you turned on the blower the odometer would display CCD Bus and the PCM would die and voltage regulator too. limp mode the transmission if I remember right. Use the wiring diagrams and make sure ground and power are present at the PCM and the Central Timer.

No. The only thing right now on the market that does is the Quadzilla. You don't see actual timing but commanded timing. If your VP44 is damaged and throwing the P0216 code it still shows the commanded timing but actual could be way off. OBDLink LX or MX series only shows OBDII PIDs. Nothing more. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs There is a way to show all the available data on the Cummins but sad to say the Hex 1C bit that shows what kind of system this reports back 05 which is "Non-OBDII Compliant" So the rules don't hold true for our trucks. Between the Quadzilla and OBDLink tool you can get all the data you need.

His is the early series which has both the cam and crank sensor. You in the late series like myself where the cam sensor was dropped and the crank sensor was moved to the cam sensor location. Sounds confusing. 98.5 to 99 had a single tooth tone wheel on the cam. Then the actual tone wheel like you see on the crank for tach signal. 00 to 02 had ditch the single tooth cam gear and then replace the gear with a multi-tooth and the sensor location was moved inward on the cam gear. The crank tone wheel was ditch completely. Now the ECM wiring for the crank sensor is the same pin on the ECM as the late series cam sensor. All years used the pin 17 on the ECM for tach signal. Pin 9 was the early Cam sensor which was dropped and no longer used.

Nothing to core out. The circuit board is mylar and it glued directly to the aluminum cover. If it burnt or damaged there is nothing to core out.

ECM will not boot below 8 Volts.

174k on stock injectors I'm sure they are shot. Popping below 293 bar.

Lot of instructions call for the test port but it's a invalid reading. Stale fluid that is not flowing. Most transmission builders call for putting a bung in the pan. Most guys on forum like the hot line heading to the cooler.

Best I can say is have your ECM tested. Grab the rebuild list and pick one.

Ummm... Sensor suppose to be either in the hot line going to the cooler. Or... Suppose to be in the pan. Test ports are invalid. Not flowing fluid.

@Auto Computer Specialist is one of the vendors here. You might want to look them up.