Mopar1973Man
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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Still, in all, the Factory shocks, I had lasted a 150k miles were just weeping oil. The Rancho's that I had last well over 150k miles and never leaked oil at all but lost the gas charge. Now on the KYB Gas A Just shocks and still doing awesome. I'll most likely ditch the shock sooner like 100k miles and freshen up. Shocks seem to degrade slowly and create issues without you really noticing. -
I would say its moderate difficulty. All basic hand tools. It about just getting everything clean and re-assembled with fresh parts. The only thing that requires a special tool is the overdrive clutch which you need a press to release the snap ring and carefully release the spring pressure. @Dynamic is a storehouse full of information on this.
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Isn't there an RPM limit? Curious of how fast you can run the alternator?
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This as simple as I can make it.
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6% is for sissies...
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Not normal. Something is out of alignment. I would send it back to the shop and have it reworked under warranty. Possible that forced the transmission into place and got it misaligned or possibly push out the pilot bearing (maybe?).
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@pepsi71ocean Here is the fuse crimp for the PDC. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/881572-3?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvfFCidbTccAx7grAeSIDrq1vx0szo98wY%3d Here is an accessory PDC for homebrew. https://www.online-led-store.com/ols-12-slot-fuse-relay-box-for-bosch-style-relays-blade-fuses-pszacceps310h
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Hmmm... I love good pulls when I'm seeing 45 PSI on my boost gauge. Even better when the tires are breaking loose in 4th gear.
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Seriously... I would just pull the transmission and have it rebuilt and the torque converter replaced. I had a minor slip and 2nd gear starts. Sent it to a local shop and spent quite a bit. Ran good for 2k miles then the torque converter failed dumping its guts into the pan. Best service the whole thing out. Could be starting in 2nd gear. Try dropping to 1st and see if it shifts normal. Could be governor pressure sensor and solenoid.
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That's the part I've got to ask why is the fluid this hot what is the cause? It's not normal. Even after all the miles on my own truck I've never had fluid temps that high. Even with all my 250 mile trip back and forth. Still in all fluid temperatures that high is not normal. That brings me back to causes. Like poor flow which is driving the pump to strain and return excessive at the pump own pressure regulator. Sludge, debris, damaged parts...
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Don't do it... The external regulator will guarantee the battery life will be shorten for sure. The problem is that the location of the external regulator is extremely important. If you mount it somewhere where its too cold it will over-charge and boil the battery dry in a mere few weeks. If you mount it in an area to warm it will under-charge and leave you with a dead battery more often. You way better off having the PCM sent in and repaired. The battery temperature sensor keeps the batteries at a safe charging voltage and minimize the amount of water lost from the electrolyte. If you want to protect the PCM from this happening again you need to do two mods. Then protect the PCM... I've already been down this road and it cost me a total of $720 to do the repair correctly. Now I've got a 5 amp fuse on the field lead, 150 Amp charge breaker, and fresh alternator that passed AC noise test.
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Actually, I would look into what is creating excessive heat instead of band-aid with synthetic fluids. Being I go through summer heat as high as 115*F and only used petroleum power steering fluid (SuperTech). Being larger tires and wheels tend to amplify this problem. Then offroad use at slow speed and turning the steering while not moving creates huge amount of heat. Again larger wheels and tire make it worse.
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I know that SmartySupport.Com doesn't have there store together but they have access to BBI and Bosch injectors. You might want to talk to Brian over there. As for this, I'm not sure if they are truly new injectors. I know BBI are new injectors. Then some of the Bosch sold here in the are actually re-boxed reman'ed injectors from what I understand.
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Power steering fluid should be changed every 30k miles.
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P0016 - Crankshaft / Camshaft Timing Misalignment - Bank 1 Sensor 1 Theory of Operation The Crankshaft Position (CKP) and Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensors are hall effect type sensors. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) provides a 5-Volt supply to the position sensor and return circuit. A notch on the crankshaft gear is used to determine the speed of the engine by the PCM. As the notch on the crankshaft speed ring or the windows in the back of the camshaft gear move past the position sensor, a signal is generated on the position sensor circuit. The PCM interprets this signal and converts it to an engine speed. When Monitored and Set Conditions When Monitored: This diagnostic runs continuously when the following conditions are met: • With the engine running. Set Conditions: • The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has detected that the CKP and CMP sensor values are not aligned and out of sync. Default Actions: • The MIL will illuminate. Possible Causes DAMAGE TO THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (CKP) OR CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (CMP) DAMAGED TONE WHEEL MECHANICAL MISALIGNMENT OF THE CKP OR CMP MECHANICAL MISALIGNMENT OF THE CRANKSHAFT AND CAMSHAFT GEARS 1.DAMAGE TO THE CKP OR CMP 1. Visually inspect the condition of the tone wheel, CKP, and CMP for damage. Are any of the components damaged? Yes • Repair or replace any damaged component. • Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST - 6.7L. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure). No • Go To 2 2.MECHANICAL MISALIGNMENT OF THE CKP OR CMP 1. Verify the tone wheel is properly positioned relative to the locating pin in the front face of the crankshaft. Is the tone wheel properly installed? Yes • Go To 3 No • Repair the tone wheel installation. • Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST - 6.7L. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure). 3.MECHANICAL MISALIGNMENT OF THE CRANKSHAFT AND CAMSHAFT GEARS 1. Check the mechanical alignment of the camshaft gear to the crankshaft gear. Refer to service manual for assistance. Are the gear teeth in proper alignment? Yes • Perform the INTERMITTENT CONDITION diagnostic procedure. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure). No • Repair the gear alignment. • Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST - 6.7L. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).
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Ok, there is an add on mod for the W-T ground wire. This answer that question.
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Nope. I just suggest going back to stock hydro personally. The upgraded hydro is a fight to get it right either hyper-extending the throwout bearing or undershooting and having the clutch dragging. All I can say back off till the clutch drag when pressed then ad back just barely enough to free the clutch with the pedal to the floor.
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Here is a bit on newer engines.
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Be careful of this. Like my OEM stock injectors are this way but the pop pressure was below 260 bar which is a complete failure. No blue smoke.
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Should be up and running.
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Surprising who you might encounter during normal life and what may happen.
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@pepsi71ocean need to drop a link here...
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Any updates here?
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Could you explain the 3 things...
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Like I'm an old school check ball and spring and just bending the spring wrong will create some wild up and down pressure swings when the check ball can't center properly. Yeah I've got to replace the spring again.
