Mopar1973Man

Keep us posted... I'm curious. You might find out the Edge EZ burned up and quit.

Doubtful seriously. ISB engines will take quite a bit of timing. The thing is by the time you get to the point of bucking you should have already noticed the engine load is higher because of negative torque. This is why I limit my MAX timing slider to 27 degrees because beyond that point bucking starts. VP44 is capable of 32 degrees of timing. As injectors get larger more timing is needed. I'm going to step up to 7 x 0.010 injectors since my current 7 x 0.0085 have nearly 100k miles already. I'm after efficiency but try to match Nick and get the same number he did.

I would watch the live data. ECT, IAT and Engine Load. When the IAT falls below +80F then the ECM kicks in extra +4 degrees of timing roughly. Which might be too much timing for cold weather and high cetane fuels. Then when the IAT warm up above the +80F then the timing retards and the performance typically improves. This all can be seen with engine load and cruise control.

It's possible the MAP sensor failed within spec. In other would just stuck at the 12 PSI value. It won't throw a P0237 or P0238 code because it not out of range. Then it won't trip a P0234 code because it not over boosting. The only one it "Might" trip is the P0236 code because it not changing value and stay high long than it should. The P0236 code will not set a CEL.

@IBMobile Kind of missing a ground signal for some reason if there is +12V on both sides of the light bulb socket.

Then some of us topping out at 40-45 PSI with ISSPro EV2 boost gauge. This why I'm not a fond believer of the using the sensor on the engine for reading existing information like boost. The actual design range of the sensor is very low and not really designed to be above the 20-25 PSI mark. Because design wise the ECM would limp mode and defuel and throw the P0234 code. Now Quadzilla still does use the MAP for boost above but like my set up the gauge vs. Quad start to skew going up from 25 PSI and above. I'm using 2001 Map Sensor. Things should really get nuts when my 7 x 0.010 injectors (320 bar popped) get here...

No. Only Winterized #2 diesel fuel. Kerosene and some 2 cycle oil is a safe bet though. Band-aid but still usable.

Either electrically the sensor or wiring causing or the tone wheel failed. Like mine had a cliff at about 30 MPH and the RF signal would drop to zero. ABS would go nuts back pumping preventing me from stopping. Install new SKF wheel bearing and problem is gone.

Couple of winters I've been really close to the idea of buying a gallon of kerosene for anti-gel.

Now that I'm at home with a PC...

Boost fooler being used on the MAP sensor side? That will prevent the boost from going higher. ECM side should never reach 19-20 PSI if so then the defuel software kicks in. The only way to see real boost is Quadzilla or external boost gauge. Quazilla does the same thing, the ECM will hold back to about 16 PSI and ECM continues to fuel like a crazed mule that way.

Sensor needs about 5 foot of tubing from the snubber. The travel distance helps with stability and protect the sensor. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator you want to cycle the screw full loose, full tight, the reset you pressures. Some times the regulator sticks. Check ball and spring. It possible the spring was bent in a manner the prevents the check ball to stay centered. Then you'll get that random drop. I'm currently in this boat.

I would consider PacBrake more so over BD. Look at the one with the double valve.

You are missing a ground then. Take notice there is two ground leads on the headlight switch which the fog lamps have there own ground leg.

Out here typically all gasoline is black. Diesel is green and even the hose is green.

You might want to look up the MSDS sheets for most of the cetane and anti-gel products and you'll find out its just as bad as gasoline. Xylene, Naptha, and other common chemicals. This is one reason why I favor true oil additives over stuff like PowerService that doesn't contain any lube oil at all. A true lubricant can be left to the air forever and it will remain oil. Now leave PowerService exposed to the air it will evaporate and turn to sticky tar base goo. If you are worried about gasoline just drop a 1 quart shot of 2 cycle oil to the fuel. DO NOT use ATF!!!!

Thank you for the kind comments...

Seat heater has an open circuit. Typically you have to replace the heater element in the seat.

If can grab a DVM or test light and test for power at the bulb plug and see if the power is going out. Need to figure out is it the +12V going away or is the ground missing at the outage times. This will help me figure out the next step. Being the bulb is the electrical load and you need a POS and NEG power source.

"The Worlds Greatest Group of Cummins Minds" all in one spot on the internet... The more you hang around and talk to people you learn so much and there are so many resources at your fingertips.

That right there points to bad fuse which is weird. Typically a fuse will heat slightly with the load and then open if its cracked then slowly cool and then close and then the light will come back on.

I'm hoping he gets the final product made. It actually reads all the data on the CCD network. I'm hoping he adds the high idle on and off switch too in the future.

Thank you for the wonderful comments for the M73M site and gang... I would contact @Dynamic and talk to Jon about this. I'm sure he can help sort this out for you. Jon is an awesome transmission guy and extremely knowledgeable.

@Marcus2000monster Have you pulled the bulbs and checked the sockets and the filaments? It's possible for the filament to break and vibrate causing the same thing to happen with flicker.

@Marcus2000monster I created a support ticket to Chris O so he should get the message and I also linked him to the post above.