Mopar1973Man

Timing wise you can run +3 up. 14, 17, 20, 23 What I'm liking is +4 up. 14, 18, 22, 26 You might want to just read my article on tuning...

Do not do quick ratio. Only use quick ratio on stock and smaller tires. Your running 285's. Wrong ratio for larger tires and places too much stress on the box.

I would look at a way to increase the blower RPM.

I sent my fsctory bodies in for new 7 x 0.010 VCO injectors popped at 320 bar. They will be at home by Wednesday. I rather build exactly what I want than buying something someone else built and not know anything about the injectors. I've ran into that few times and to freaky to install mystery injectors not knowing if they will be smoky, last good 100k or drop pop pressure in 20k miles. Custom builds will always cost more but worth it in the long haul. You get exactly what you want. No random 6 injectors dropped in a box.

That wild I lost my first set of u-joints in 20k miles. Dried out no way to live them. Had driveshaft shop install a carrier bearing he spotted an worn u-joint. He replaced it with Spicer sealed. If failed pretty quick like 30k miles. Grease-able tend to last a good period of time as long as I push out some of the black grease. 366k and rolling... Napa joints in my front shaft are over 100k now. Rear shaft is close but not quite.

2003 and up have TIPM. We are old school relays and fuses.

First fix any slop you got. Make sure every thing is tight. Brakes need to be looked at for binding or sticking.

Not a fan of Spicer. Typically NAPA but most failure I've had was being lazy and not greasing all the joints. Like my front driveshaft is a PITA. Now front axle joints are breeze it grease up.

I've got one out the side.

Starting to look like a truck now. Compared to long ago with the body in cut pieces and trying to fab up the body. You are making good progress.

Typically you open the EXE file on Windows OS and it should load the driver for Windows USB. Then you would plug in the Quadzilla module with a USB Mini cord. Then Ask the updates to find the module. If it can find the module then I press update and it will take off flashing the module. There were about 2 or 3 updates to the 2.7 firmware. Let say... I'm a Ubuntu Linux 18.04 user and can update using VirtualBox running Windows 7.

I've got the diodes in my basement. Just gotta grab one and stuff it in the small flat rate box. Make sure to check your diode and be sure of the BATT+ terminal design. I've got the one that is straight out the back not out the side.

Flashing WTS is a sign of a problem typically. I'm trying to remember but something about the ECM booting or software error IIRC.

Grease-able u-joints only here. I rather take the time and shot the u-joint with grease every oil change and push out the old grease, water, and salts, etc then replace with fresh grease. Sealed u-joint for me typically end a short life being there is no way to push fresh grease unless you press then all back out. Too much of PITA to do.

Might look at the voltage at the blower. See how much voltage drop your getting. Check the voltage while running on HI and back probe the plug if possible.

I rebuilt plenty of Sagnaw boxes (Dodge and Ford). The only thing that is a pain in the butt is the all the BB's you have to work back into the worm gear. Sad to say people continue to save there photos on outside servers then kill the accounts. Then all the photos disappear.

Are you sure you running the last app for your device? (iQuad 1.9.41) Are you running the latest flash for the Quadzilla Module? As for me, I do not list the double like you do that leads me to believe you not on the current flash.

Don't feel bad. @pepsi71ocean called me and asked about TIPM on another Dodge product. He found both headlight bulb was blown and the TIPM module needed to be hard reset. Now works fine.

Take notice debris in the pan. That will tell you what is happening. When mine ate the torque converter there was plenty of metal in the pan. Then you know you are going to be rebuilding.

You only ask for a new VP44. Then @JAG1 proceeds to drop the intake manifold bolt down the engine side of the intercooler pipe. For an extra beer I would of do that gasket. But he never asked.

Rebuilding you can custom the nozzles and pop pressure and get them flow matched. New you are basically taking what random 6 injectors and no pop testing and flow matching typically. Wednesday I should see my injectors. DAP 7 x 0.010 VCO (+150 HP), popped at 320 bar.

Lots of pictures...

. . . That one of the things. I'm an odd duck for reason. Longevity and performance are important. Now performance is not 1/4 mile or dyno queen stuff. It more along the line I want to pass the Ford in front of me. Matt the GO! pedal and I want it to hook up and pull right around the Ford before he's even got time to think about it. Then be able to set the cruise and let it sip fuel. Now like my 1996 Dodge 1500 that you have to have a clear mile to get around someone because it so slow to get up and go. You've got to mat that long and hard and fuel mileage shows. Either you drive like a Grandpa or suffer with the lower numbers.

Basically in a nutshell. The alternator charger lead is completely removed from the alternator all the way back to the PDC. Then its cut much shorter and attached to a circuit breaker (150 Amp) and then to the passenger battery positive terminal. The Master ground is unwrapped down to the splice. The heavy gauge is cut off and leaving the small gauge wires. Now solder or crimp a ring terminal to those ground wires and bolt that terminal to the gear case near the VP44.

No PM box anymore. Gotta make a support ticket. We do have all the FSM in the Download area.