Mopar1973Man

Nope, you do have the RWAL system. So the rear speed sensor is important but you said the speedometer is working correctly and smooth. On the ABS system, the only thing it could be is either one of solenoids is stuck or debris in the system. The only thing I could think of since there is no ABS light I would say its either hydraulic or mechanical issue.

I typically just use a propane torch to do heavy gauge wire work soldering.

Sorry I missed it. @Marcus2000monster yeah the tool came back it's here. Neighbor picks up my mail for me keep things dry.

Timing is not even. Like mine above is +3.7 evenly spaced. 16 + 3.7 = 19.7 + 3.7 = 23.4 + 3.7 = 27.1 RPM is linear and timing should follow the same linear scale. 16 + 2 = 18 + 7 = 25 + 3 = 28 Your timing is not linear. It all over the place. Here is a tool I made that helps... performance tune.xlsx Just change the blue blocks in my spreadsheet.

Can you do me a favor and verify what system we are working with. Do you have a module in the driver side corner with an electric pump? Rear wheel anti lock doesn't have this but two solenoids controlling brake fluid. Then back by the rear axle is a dump solenoid. This dumps pressure preventing lock up. Which typically feel like the pedal sinking. Kick back would be Full ABS system which typically if a front sensor is bad or tone ring it will kick back or back pump the pedal making it nearly impossible to push down more.

@JAG1 Stay in Oregon, then the rattles stay there too.

I've seen the pickup tube crack on stock baskets and cause the truck to run out of fuel at a 1/2 tank. Now did you install a draw straw?

Block heater only needed below 0*F (-17*C).

Smoothly? Like when my ABS gave up. The front sensor would show ZERO till 30 MPH and the jump up. This is a tone ring issue in my case. Being I'm going to assume its RWAL (Rear Wheel Anti-Lock). This is the only speed sensor there is.

Some days I wish @Marcus2000monster just would come over the mountain to Idaho and let me look at it.

Smoke color and being light grey is possible that the timing is a bit retarded on the low end. You could try my current tune a bit aggressive... 1500 - 16.0 2000 - 19.7 2500 - 23.4 3000 - 27.1 Max - 27.1 Max timing offset - 1.5 Low PSI Timing Reduct - 4 Timing Reduct Scale - 50% Light Throttle Timing Adv - 3 Light Throttle Load Limit - 30%

First off. I would request that all brakes be inspected and the entire system bleed out with fresh fluid. Make sure the front calipers are not bound up. Then check there rears for any broken springs or issues. Rusting drums can cause the lockup you talk about you might look. Is your speedometer functional? Is it showing speed properly?

Good time for upgrade to Quadzilla. Edge Products are not designed for larger injectors and do no give a way to change timing and fuel maps.

Here you go...

Talk to @Me78569 he was the one building them.

Be careful if you trigger 3 cylinder mode it will continue the same way as well.

Totally normal. Once the mode is triggered and the switch is turned off. The ECM software is still flagged for that mode of operation till 165*F of coolant temperature is reached. Then the high idle is canceled. The other way to cancel is to turn the switch off. Then shut down the engine for 10 seconds to 15 seconds and restart. Then the high idle mode is wiped out on a fresh reboot of the ECM.

Your looking for the 4 door extended cab.

Master ground locations. Engine block Driver side fender near the headlight. Most all PDC stuff goes here. Driver side kick panel (inside the cab)

In articles, under the 24V 2nd Gen the is wiring diagrams.

Might have to do with the differences between the FASS and AirDog flow rates. Being we both have AirDog and @Marcus2000monster is talking FASS fuel system.

I would assume a "Quad Cab" would required a "Quad Cab Cab Corners" An extended cab won't work because there is a no read quad door. Standard Cab wouldn't work either being the rear of the main door is the cab corner.

That ground there is NOT a circuit ground or sensor ground. The problem is on some models the PCM is screwed to the plate on plastic nuts. What happens is the PCM is isolated from body ground for the case. The ground strap was added to give connect between the PCM case and the body that all. The ones with the plastic screw nuts without the ground strap, RF noise and other noise emissions could foul the PCM. The strap was added to prevent this. I repeat this is not a circuit ground or sensor ground. PCM actual ground is Connector #1 and pins 31 and 32 which head back to the passenger battery. PCM sensor ground is Connector #1 and pin 4 which service... Battery Temperature Sensor Fuel Level Sensor Transmssion sensors (governor pressure sensor and transmission temperature sensor)

Mine did. I sent my first set of SAC injectors back with a miss and stalling issues. Less than 10k miles. Test out and sure enough couple where around 290 bar already. Then there was @pepsi71ocean 28k miles and around 280 bar with 28k miles. This is why I will not use the fuel module for suction and return both. This returns all the iar to the same confined space as the suction line. As for me I've got my return to the filler neck and the suction as a stand alone draw straw.