Mopar1973Man

Throwout bearing issues. If you running upgraded hydro and over adjusted you could be hyper-extending the throw out bearing too deep in the pressure plate fingers. This why I do NOT suggest upgrade hydros this is more common than you think.

Makes some sense...

The problem is the alternator get rather hot during grid heater cycles. This is why its best to start the engine and get rolling soon after starting to get the ECM to cancel the grid heaters. Now the alternator diodes get stressed from the grid heater and start to bleed AC noise. Being the ECM, PCM and VP44 ground is running parallel to alternator charge lead the AC noise jumps off to the ground side and messes with all the electronics. Here you can see the black/tan ground running right beside the black alternator charge lead. After the mod, the ground is on the driver side and the alternator is on the passenger side battery.

For noobies... I highly suggest just pulling the injector lines completely off. 1,2,4 in the first group. Then 3, 5, 6 in the second group. Now with that all removed it much easier to get #6 out. Now I had a member from Sandpoint, ID drive down here and showed up at like 7pm in the even in just under 1 hour I managed to change all 6 injectors without removing any injector lines at all. You can flex then just slightly and sneak the crossover tubes out just enough to change the injectors. Being you want to inspect I would suggest just removing the lines. You will need a mirror and a flashlight to look into the 5 and 6 holes.

Typically I would just use brake clean and using the straw blow it from the injector side toward the line side to flush any small debris out. Then use compressed air to blow from the same direction. I high suggest now to put them in a parts washer being there might be grit and debris in the wash tub. This will cause wear damage to the injectors possibly. I just use the same red grease that I use in my grease gun. High temp.

Still in all prices for Cummins truck out here are typically high in the valley. Even a 2WD 1 ton is a farmer favorite for hauling goosenecks and bumper pull trailers. I'll admit the price is reduced slightly but still extremely popular. 2nd Gen trucks are a local favorite. More of the local ranchers are going back to the 2nd Gens and ditch their 3rd and 4th Gens. Too expensive to repair.

I make sure to inspect the holes for debris. Then the crossover tube I lightly grease the threads to the o-ring. This is for corrosion protection. I tend to get a few crossover tubes with water corrosion issues from power washing the engine. Like right now my engine is nearly white from the salt being splashed up on the engine and crystalized.

I'm in the blue smoke seat now. Start up hazes blue smoke (sign of injectors pop pressure too low). Clears as it warms up.

Still, in all, there is absolutely no need for this mod adding a ground wire to the APPS sensor leads. Just remove that ground wire and repair the wire. Now test the alternator for excessive AC noise. If excessive AC noise is found replace the diode pack or replace the alternator. Now you'll want to do the W-T ground wire mod. Then for safety, you want to do my PCM protection mod as an add on.

Even out here being the farmers and ranchers want them $12k to $15k (super clean).

Your welcome...

As for different blower... Don't know. Your the only one I've ever seen requesting for more air flow.

I would like to say thank you to all of you for the prayers. As for this morning, a wonderful gent started talking to both MoparMom and I. The conversation continued and I finally gave up and told them what is happening to both of us. Being MoparMom on dialysis and me with bladder cancer. He admitted that he is not a priest but asked if he could pray for both of us. I said "yes". We all gathered in a circle in the restaurant and he proceeded to prayer for both us on the spot. Then conversation continued after the prayers and then he took our bill and paid it. Wow! What an awesome morning from a total stranger.

Biggest factor is the evaporator new or been cleaned? Typically they plug up reducing air flow.

Secret. Even remain boxes might require a bit of adjustment being there is no way to load test them in a vehicle. Loosen the lock nut, an Allen wrench tighten the bolt 1/4 turn and see how it performs.

I've already shared on my personal FB page. Just not on M73M FB page.

Welcome to the family.

Jump over to the articles and the 99 wiring map will show you what that fuse powers. Forgive me I'm on my phone right now.

Basically the gearbox gets wear. So tighten everything up with proper adjustments and fresh seals. As for the Quadzilla that is +180 HP so roughly speaking 415 HP on stock injectors.

Steering box you could do a rebuild kit @Blue-Top Steering sells the rebuild kit for like $35 buck. Rebuilding that steering box is super easy. Mostly o-rings and a few bearings. I just sent my OEM stock injectors in for having new nozzles and popped to 320 bar. I've got to take care of the injectors being I've got to travel for MoparMom medical as well as my own medical. I've had to shift priority around and get after it.

Comes back around to trying to build power without a proper tuner. Heck, there was Quadzilla in the Classified Ads for $400 that sold. I guess you missed the boat?

I'm learning that even OEM stock injectors only last for about 100k miles. I have 150k miles on my stock injectors when they where pop tested they were well below 260 bar which the lower limit is 293 bar for injector pop pressure. Stock should be 310 bar for VP44. I'm not sure about P-pump pop pressure and then what is going to produce optimal atomization. I think it would be best to start with 310 bar at least but you might have to add timing to the pump to make up for it.

Now you bolt the grounds to the gear case next to the VP44. No longer does it run paralell with the alternator charge lead to the PDC. Which you can see in the lower picture the charge lead is bound to the ground lead and the AC noise jumps right into the ground running in the ground side of all the computers (ECM, PCM and VP44).

Why not call @Auto Computer Specialist and see if they can work with TIPM and if they can repair it.

Here you go... Then the fix... Then the add on to protect the PCM.