Mopar1973Man

Not a misprint. Pressing BND button only goes to FM1, FM2 and FM3. Being there is no FM or AM stations out here really in no big deal for me. I've got to be south od Council to get Boise radio stations and north of Grangeville to get Lewiston Radio stations.

Yes sir. Since I already had reverse light on the axle and the relay back there I just had to tap into the wiring.

Pretty simple. When power is applied to the camera leads then the camera is activated. When the video signal is seen by the stereo then the stereo mutes and displays the video from the camera. Simple too. Just came out of the stereo then through the firewall. Down to the frame and ran with the tail light wiring.

MAP sensor is the only one on the 5V lead. The oil pressure is a single wire.

@dieselautopower I'm considering sending my old 7 x 0.0085 and having a set of 7 x 0.010 nozzles again and then having them set for 330 bar.

The protection is mostly if the diodes shorts to ground there is something to pop. The alternator will never reach 140 Amp output or above.

TPS should show 0%... Hopefully, you DID NOT adjust for previous voltage. This is NOT REQUIRED on a Timbo's its a matter of getting angle right so the contact is in the IDLE position. As you'll see Timbo's APPS is a electronic free APPS sensor and does NOT use voltage for IVS (Ilde Validation Signal). It all about angle of the bellcrank! This is IDLE POSITION.

OK, chicken man,,, "Birds of a feather flock together..." So, you must be a big nut too... Eh?

Depends on the transmission for length. Remanufactured; 32-13/16" Long Driveshaft Info One of our most popular parts Front; Manual trans.; Trans. code NV5600; with Dana Model 60 Axle; with NV241HD Transfer Case Remanufactured; 28-9/16" Long Driveshaft Info One of our most popular parts Front; Standard Cab Pickup; Automatic trans.; Trans. code 47RE; with Dana Model 60 Axle; with NV241LD Transfer Case Front; Automatic trans.; Compressed Length of 28-9/16 in. measured from centerline of U-Joint located at the slip yoke end to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint on the opposite end, With NP241DLD transfer case, 1330 U-joint at differential yoke, 1.063 in. cap diameter Front; Automatic trans.; Compressed Length of 29-1/8 in. measured from centerline of U-Joint located at the slip yoke end to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint on the opposite end, With NP241DHD transfer case, 7290 U-joint at differential yoke, 1.125 in. cap diameter with inside snap rings Front; Manual trans.; 5 speed trans.; Trans. code NV4500HD; Compressed Length of 27-9/16 in. measured from centerline of U-Joint located at the slip yoke end to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint on the opposite end, 1330 U-joint at differential yoke, 1.063 in. cap diameter; New Venture trans. Front; Manual trans.; 6 speed trans.; Trans. code NV5600; Compressed Length of 32-13/16 in. measured from centerline of U-Joint located at the slip yoke end to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint on the opposite end, 1330 U-Joint at differential yoke, 1.063 in. cap diameter; New Venture trans.

14.8 volts x 190 amps = 2,812 Watts. This is absolute worse case.

Yes sir... My truck has nuts...

Simple. Unhook both the ECM plug and MAP sensor plug. Then RED probe to the sensor wire of your choice. Then the black probe to the NEGATIVE battery post. It should show INFINITE ohms. Still, with it, all unhooked. The RED probe in the sensor pin. Then BLACK probe in the Sensor ground pin. This should show INFINITE ohms.

Going to revive this thread. I'm now jumped in the boat and can confirm that so far no starting issues with 320 bar pop pressure. Even with winter conditions and 4WD operation I'm floating 18 to just barely under 20 MPG. Cost of operation is down. MPG number are much better over the worn out 7 x 0.0085 injectors. As for my current tune. This is what I'm running on right now. iQuad-Economy-2019-02-24-05.22.211856515041.json What I've learned is that with higher pop pressure injectors you need to RETARD your timing more than usual for MPG numbers. As you see my timing starts at 13, 17, 21, 25. Cruise timing at 2,000 right now is right near 19 degrees.

Very weird. The MAX voltage you should see is the current battery voltage. There is no system in the truck that amplifies voltage above the standard 12V system (~12 to 14.8 volts -running). Need to ohm out from MAP plug to ECM plug. Other DTCs Boost Pressure Sensor - Is it damaged or failed? Try changing it out if you have a spare. 5-volt Supply Circuit - 5V circuit appears to be good according to your post above. MAP Signal Circuit Short To Ground - Is the signal wire shorted to body ground? MAP Signal Circuit Short To Sensor Ground - Is the signal wire shorted to signal ground wire? MAP Sensor - Same as the Boost Pressure Sensor posted above. Intermittent Wiring Problem - For sure a wiring problem being what you've documented in the past. ECM - Highly doubt this at this point.

I'll start my own thread. I finally ditched my old Kenwood Stereo MP3 player. I got to the point I gave up on cutting MP3 discs and audio CD's. I start just using the cellphone. Bit just an awful lot of plugging and unplugging the cellphone just for music. I was hunting around and there is a lot of double DIN stereos out there. Then there is lot of single DIN with flip up screens. I couldn't find any of the flip down screens. I focus back to a single DIN stereo with bluetooth. I stumbled across CACA In Dash Stereo on Amazon for a whole $38 bucks. I was kind of skeptical because of it cheap China made stereo. I'll admit the there are no instructions for this stereo. Basic wire map that all. Rest you on your own. I installed rather easy using my old dash filler plate. I forgot to hook up the antenna. So today I've got the reverse camera hooked up and it works really well. Camer automatically pops up when you shift to reverse. It also cuts the audio / music when you do which is fine. The camera is rather cheap. The bracket is very thin metal. What I did was grabbed another scrap piece of metal and soldered the camera bracket to the scrap metal. Currently, I've got it ziptied to my bumper through the hitch ball holes above. I'll grab fender washers and long bolts and bolt that up to the bumper. I'm slightly offset from center but I can back right up to my trailer easy now.

Don't use ether if you can. It will make your truck an Ether Baby. Wipes the rings out after a while. For a quick fix you can but VERY small spray goes a long way. Make sure the grid heater is removed or disconnected. More here. No PM box...

@int3man Continuing the power system stuff here. As for the power system, I've got an irrigation dam 1/3 mile back on the mountain with a drop of about 240 feet. This gives about 116 to 118 PSI of water pressure on a 1-inch line. The Pelton wheel was custom made by an older gent in Southern Idaho. I'm sure he's long gone now. The generator is an older permanent magnet train generator. The well is an electric pump on a 220 VAC system off the step up transformer and the inverter. The inverter is an older Trace Inverter 4,000 Watts at 120VAC. The water from the Pelton wheel is routed to a pond in the back yard for fire suppression.

No start will most likely occur at +20*F. Between +20*F and +30*F its a tough start longer cranking and stuttering when it does light off. Longer cranking is the downside and excessive starter wear. Then added run time required to keep the batteries charged up. I've seen guys eat the starter before eating the batteries. Starter gets hot on long excessive cranking.

Ummm... If your morning start is below +30*F out then yes you'll need grid heaters. Above +30*F I never even think to wait for the grid heaters I just fire up and go.

Why? MAP sensor rarely goes bad. Just buy a normal MAP sensor and install. Heavy Duty isn't going to change anything.

Small chunk of hose and two squeeze clamps. Then steel tube.

The steel line goes up over the top of the oil filter.

You could be it does mean it solves the AC noise issue. Diodes still fail just the same. The key problem is no matter how big of an alternator you buy the problem is always there. The problem is you start up and then the grid heater are banging away at idle (800 RPM's). The alternator is spinning at idle speeds too so now there is no cooling for the diodes and they get hot and fail. No alternator is designed to charge at full load at idle speed. A solution. Even works for stock alternators. Install a Quadzilla and set the high idle for a 15-second delay. Now the idle is brought up to 1,200 RPM increasing the cooling ability of the alternator as well its ability to charge and handle that 190 amp load. Poor man solution. Don't leave it idle to warm up. Start it up and get moving instantly. Once the vehicle is moving faster than 25 MPH grid heaters are canceled. @IBMobile is making a grid heater control switch that allows for disabling the grid heater without an error code. Smog state compliant.

Where? Maybe 2 inches here...

Sure only if I had the right wife. Takes two to make a family and offspring. Kind of hard to do as a single guy... Be totally honest. I've been slapped in public for cracking a joke to my date. Just trying to be funny. Three gals I've been with end the relationship because I either didn't pay all there bills for them or didn't have enough income to be there sugar daddy. One went as far as asking MoparMom to sell her house and pay for her house. True story. Even while MoparMom went in the hospital I got dumped that same day because I was able to spend money on her because Mom was in the hospital. OMG! Seriously? Got dumped and had my Mom possibly dying... I've been abused by women more than once... Maybe that why I'm still single. I've had enough of having my heart torn from my chest and then stomped on, then kicked to the curb. Now I currently sitting on the fence waiting for my medical bills to pop and ring out the final number. I really can't afford to have a date or wife right now. Being most of my income will be going right back out the door. Like buying another truck again.