Mopar1973Man

Update: Feb 01, 2019 Just got back from the hospital. The did a CT scan for my right kidney with contrast. Needless to say contrast is weird what it does to your body. I was kind of freaked about what was to come in response to the test results. I stopped by a friend place in New Meadows, ID and I got a phone call from my doctor. He had good news that my right kidney is healing and looking better. But... He still wants to schedule another surgery for going back in to make sure there isn't anything left. Not exactly thrilled with the idea but I've got time on my side he wants to schedule for the end of Feb. or beginning of March. In the meantime, I'm going to continue hitting the cannabis and RSO. It is helping that is for sure being my kidney is still healing up good. I'm going to continue my bicycle rides in Ontario. I've got a job with the local fire dept doing their diesel work and repairs on the fire trucks. This will help with the income somewhat. It will cost me time away from the website as well. I'm going to try and balance and juggle what I can till it all drops on the floor. As for me, I want to get to my goal of 15 miles next on the bicycle and possibly lose a few more pounds. I'm struggling to get below 230 pounds.

You could have it sent back to Quadzilla and have them verify the unit.

Then explain this one. Both trucks filled up at the same fuel station (Chevron in New Meadows, ID) the 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 with a FASS 150 gels up and my 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 does not gell up in the same weather and conditions. We were working on getting cows moved and hay moved. His truck gelled tight required to be towed. Mine was fine never had a single issue. The outside temperature was -20*F. Make you think... True but I can see my fuel temperature at least. Yeah, I can't see the fuel tank temperature but with the return fuel from the heat being close to the engine coolant temperature should help. True. For what ever reason I've never gelled. Same conditions and everything. I've seen more issues with the pumps hanging on the frame rail exposed.

As for LED headlights I wish they would be outlawed. Most of the LED headlight bulbs are horrid and blinding. Like my HID's have a good cutoff line and don't blind people like LED's do. I can see that bluish glow coming from another Dodge I know its a LED headlight. Man those thing suck bad. Now HID's you can tell the cutoff line might bounce a bit into your eyes but typically not as bad as a scattered LED on a stock housing.

At least I know the limits of my equipment. Yeah, I know how far I can push that turbo. Remember its only a 12cm2 housing. Excessive driver pressure will over spin the compressor and if it's out of balance just a little it would go to piece like your picture of yours. These things spin at some seriously high RPM's and reaching beyond what it capable of is risky at best. Sorry to see this kind of damage, sucks to have to rebuild an engine because of turbo failure.

Personally, for a daily driver, I would avoid the P-pump conversions. Most of them end up garage Queens and taking a fairly good loss to the MPG department. For track star or dyno queen yeah a P-pump would be great being the truck is strictly track or dyno. Street truck would have to have good smoke control. I see way too many now that rolling huge black clouds and produce MPG numbers in the mid teens at best.

Basically, the Smarty on return to stock should return to the most current version of ECM software. Just the high idle software is enabled.

I only change filters every 60k miles. Stock can and the AirDog 150 (er um now AirDog 165). Won't do much good for the FASS guys if the suction line is plugged solid with gelled fuel or ice possibly.

Even with temperatures down to -20*F this year. Still always seen fuel temperature about +62*F at the injection pump. To this day 366k miles and 13 winters with temperatures as low as -35*F in winter of 2017 I still never used one anti-gel product and still to this day never gelled ONCE. Big factor is my AirDog is not hanging on the frame. It tucked in behind the transfer case. Then my fuel line are not exposed to direct blowing wind. The fuel lines are inside the frame rail fro the AirDog forward (old pic). Then I've kept my stock filter can and fuel heater that most ditch. Now the local few that I've installed FASS 150 pumps for there is no choice but to hang it off the front bed bolt. Hanging in pump and filters in the direct wind, then in the damage path of the front tire where snow and ice are thrown on the pump and filters. I've heard plenty of complaints about the FASS 150 freezing up or gelling up at near zero. Typically the pump is in cased in a layer of ice and most times out of ten the fuse is blown. I will not suggest a FASS pump to anyone up here any longer because of the constant gelling and freeze up issues.

I pack mine with a thin layer of axle grease to prevent oxidizing of the aluminum and make them easier to come back off in the future.

Ill have to finish watching but there is good info so far that I've seen.

Should show up in Custom Tunes.

Basically don't let 3 cylinder high idle and Quadzilla 6 cylinder high idle run together. Being the ECM is calling to drop 1, 2, and 3 cylinders. Now the Quadzilla is trying to call for 1,200 on 6 cylinders. Yeah I can see where that can go very wrong.

I'm there. Already got a bit more room with the Hybrid HX35/40. With the 7 x 0.010 injectors, you actually cutting back fuel more than adding it. The bottom end it cut pretty good starting at only 75% of stock fuel. I'm maxed out at 120% over stock. I'm not even using the last 30% of CANBus fuel for my daily tune. After the entire day of driving. I'm very impressed with the 7 x 0.010 injectors. My tune I'm working around to gain the most. Valuable information!!! I can say that you can detect low pop pressure with the Quadzilla. Like my old 7 x 0.0085 idled at 5% to 7% engine load. Then the new 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar idle at 13%. There is a reason for this. As pop pressure is higher you have to command more fuel to overcome the pop pressure and get the idle to hit 800 RPM. Now with a wore out injector like my 7 x 0.0085 now those are so worn out and pop pressure is below normal range so the ECM commands way less fuel to make it idle at 800 RPM.

Like the 7 x 0.0085 injectors I was set for 140% which was also slightly on the less side. That makes total sense. Being the 7 x 0.010 are exactly double the flow rate of 7 x 0.0085 injectors so the values hold true. Going from 140% for 7 x 0.0085 (+75 HP) to 180% for 7 x 0.010 (+150 HP).

@Dieselfuture thanks for you tidbits. Gotta ask what MPG offset or you using?

Any injection shop should be able to help. Any shop that rebuilds injection pumps like for example Industrial Injection.

I'm currently rebuilding the tune. What I've got is for 7x0.0085 injectors. Now upgraded to 7 x 0.010 injectors.

I've had alternator fail right out of the box. I always bench test before leaving the store.

Kind of shocked at 80 MPH cruise set my EGTs float 650F to 700F. This while twisting 2,400 on the tach. Did awesome.

Umm no... Gotta have my G-Force fix. WOT and feel it push you back in the seat.

AC noise from the alternator most likely. It fouls the ECM and PCM. Look for the WT ground wire mod in the articles. Then have your alternator tested for AC noise.

Cruise set for 65 MPH my average EGTs are about 500*F to 550*F on flat ground. I'm loving that purring lope. Very mild and doesn't last very long. Power wise this is crazy fast passing a semi and another car and look down I'm doing 95 MPH. Idle is very smooth.

When your road and weather conditions are better just borrow a set of 245's for the rear axle and run it for a few days. If the ratio is too just doesn't suit you then there are the 235/85 R16 which is nearly 20 pounds lighter than 265's and just barely 1 mm taller than a 265/75 R16. Ran those for many years. 235's done very well for winter traction more penetration to the road surface than wide tire 265's. Gearing you would understand really well if you rode a bicycle. Like I've got 26-inch wheels and 21 gears on my bicycle. When the gear ratio gets too low in number the amount of stress placed on you and the pedals and cranks is multiplied big time. Now increase the ratio and/or make the wheels smaller reduced the stress considerable where you cranking fairly easy but even able to climb fair grades without a ton of stress on you. After you done this and rode at least 10 miles you start to understand gearing really, really well. It about finding that balance where your power is transferred to the road without making it too easy where you crank and crank and bare go anywhere vs too much and now you're struggling to get it down the road.