Mopar1973Man

375-190 is the 190F thermostat 375-180 is the 180F thermostat

Sad to say this hard to put into text on the forum. Christmas Day I was working around the house and thought I picked up a UTI of some sort. It got worse through the evening. The next morning its started to clear then turned into I can't urinate. I drove to the hospital and found out I've got a tumor in my bladder partially blocking the right ureter. Never the less I was outfitted with a catheter and sent home with an appointment for a specialist in Meridian, ID. The ran the camera in me and sure enough, there is a fair size growth. The plan is by next Wednesday to have it removed. I'm going be out of action for a while. Anyone local to me I would like to ask for assistance if possible. My Great BoD's here are going to have to pick up the operation of the site for a while. I'm alive and well for the most part. Shaken by this, Oh hell Yes! The huge burden of trying to take care of myself and MoparMom dialysis. Then the mental stress of it being possibly cancer. Today I'm going to try and just as much as possibly gain some strength so I can just keep trucking. I've got to keep rolling for MoparMom's sake. Again I'm tapping @BrianAtSmarty for the day of my operation being I will be in the hospital for at least two days. He's going to put us up at his place and shuttle MoparMom on my days I'm down.

Be aware the Cummins thermostat looks like NAPA's previous version thermostat. I've have had excellent results so far with NAPA thermostat's. I can say Gates is rather flakey and poor quality. Cummins Thermostat and NAPA old version on the left. The NAPA current version on the right. Much larger mouth. Also the current NAPA 190F is actually a 192F. On my truck I swapped back in the 190F and it runs about 197F to 201F with the winter fronts on the truck and outside temps running 20-30F with freezing fog.

180F thermostat can get as low as 172F. As for a 190F thermostat it could be as low as 182F. I'd say replace the thermostat. 190F is optimal for you rig.

He's right the clear coat is way burnt looking.

Nice to see your face @pepsi71ocean ... Now I've also seen the rust bucket that you working with. As for injectors yes pop pressure makes a big difference in how the engine performs in cold start and smoke. Like mine are low in the pop pressure I roll off an initial bluish cloud and then the haze of bluish vapor continues. Smells of raw fuel. At throttle, the injectors are OK the line pressure is high enough to produce a good burn but not optimal.

Desktop only sorry you need a mouse and hover on the dotted underline word.

Bad injector spray pattern will cause the miss or lope.

What I thought. Fly by wire cruise lost.

No current pics. But those turbo are dirty. Wow. I would pull the compressor housing and brake cleaner the entire thing. Need to wash that snail out.

This is the member map. On the left is the + and - for zoom. The next button below is zoom to screen size. You can click and drag the map around and look for members in your area. Then when you do find members you can click on the pin and see who it is. Then you can PM those people and get information.

I need to get a set for the 1996 Dodge Ram next... But I'm going to have to pull the carpet out and power wash the carpet clean then put them in. The light grey is getting rather dirty brown patches.

From bottom up is the same +50*F off. This is why I'm got the defuel limit of EGT set to 1350*F because it actually fully engaged at 1,300*F and comes on at about 1,200*F. That screen capture was back during the summer time. Now with winter time I'm running slightly retard timing right at 19.5 to 20* at 2K.

Fit good. Both sides great for snow and mud.

Here is what is around you. https://mopar1973man.com/membermap/

I've got to ask does your cruise control work?

Vulcan Performance and DAP are the only two I'll buy from. DAP sells both Midwest and Industrial injection pump. Vulcan sells industrial. Both Industrial Injection and Midwest Injection are Bosch certified rebuilders. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Bosch-VP44-p/vp44.htm https://www.dieselautopower.com/bosch-027-vp44-fuel-injection-pump-standard-output-235hp-wire-tap-voids-2-year-warranty-vp44027

It changed in 2000 (IIRC) when it went to a single cam sensor and no crank. Might be time for a call to them and see if the ECM failed again or was it fixed correctly.

I've got a set.

Have removed the Edge Juice? Want to make sure the Edge Juice isn't fouling the signal.

At any point being the #5 injector has been tampered with, you need to just replace all injectors. DO NOT start the engine with that #5 injector installed you are asking for engine damage. The solenoid is a tuned piece on the injector and can't just replace it with any solenoid and just screw it on. There is a calibration process for that solenoid. Common Rail Injectors are NOT a serviceable part. Being one injector is damaged just replace them all. Being the other 5 injectors are shortly behind the damaged one.

First off lets get the real information on the codes. Now read over those quick that will help. Then as for P0216 codes typically I'm finding out that if you have good fuel pressure of 14 to 20 PSI them the timing piston typically fails on the lack of lubricity and binds up in the cylinder. Nothing can fix this issue other than full replacement of the VP44. This is where the 2 cycle oil theory comes into play.

Yes sir it is. Get both seals the rear seal for the transmission then the front seal for the transfer case. Be aware... I've done this on another truck and the seals didn't last at all. Make sure the bearings on both ends are in good shape. If there is shaft movement, grooves in the shaft seal area or damage you might have a leak till you make the proper repairs.

I've got a Prodigy as well good controllers.