Mopar1973Man

If you go back to the "default tune" then the loading of the tune process doesn't happen.

Then you might look here... Then installing the field wire fuse..,

Here watch the video...

Alternator AC Noise issues. This is where the W-T ground mod is handy.

I'll have to pull my shop pump out and show you in a picture. I'll do that in the morning. Raining here now.

Then there is no display adjustment. The only one that has the color adjustment is the iQuad display which as far as I know isn't released yet.

I'm not sure of the revision number but older pumps had the rubber diaphragm where the 027 has the steel plate. Then the timing piston sleeve was brass in the past where the 027 is a hardened steel sleeve now. All parts in the 027 are hardened steel.

Did Quadzilla release the displays? If so I'm not sure how to help you being I've got no knowledge of the Quad Display...

No display adjustments at this time.

From what I understand is @Quadzilla_Stephen is no longer there it just @Quadzilla Power by himself working the shop. He's short the help and expect it to take time to get to the next step. Just gotta hang in there.

Wow! If that is true you got Rev 026 pump. As for the serial number I'm not sure. HO pumps are high pressure, low volume pumps good for MPG use. Then SO pumps are high volume, lower pressure pumps good for building HP/TQ.

Now If you've done the W-T ground wire mod then the major grounds are done. The rest are all secondary systems like lights and such.

1/8 inch air brake line is typically rated for 600 PSI burst pressure. I seriously doubt a little 14 to 20 PSI pump will cause any issues.

You can use a mirror and look at the data plate on the pump to see what rev you have.

15 to 17 PSI on the last VP44 for 243k miles... 1/4 of a million miles is pretty good in my book.

Lie... Doesn't exist in the Rev 027 pumps. Steel plate. Rubber diaphragm doesn't exist... Everything inside the VP44... Optimal Fuel pressure: 14-20 PSI. This keeps the overflow valve open and return fuel moving.

Just done the same thing on an 1997 Dodge 2500 in Brogan, OR so the owner didn't have to hold the throttle and/or plug in on cold mornings.

Seems like a Jeep thing more so. https://www.westtexasoffroad.com/ Website is rather incomplete. No listing before 2007.

This is why my fuel pressure sensor is mounted here. There is a 5 foot of 1/8" air brake line in between the tap point and the sensor. Why? Back in my days of a mechanical gauge. I had a low-pressure switch mount right at the tap point. Gauge ran for 10 years no problem because it was over 5 foot from the tap point. The low-pressure switch being mounted at the tap point failed all the time even with the needle valve. This is why you never place a sensor right at the tap point regardless of the needle valve and/or snubber.

Might want to talk to @W-T he's a big ham radio operator.

Same sealing washer as the VP44 overflow. I always kept a few used one around for stuff like that.

@Boondockboost Why Pepsi71 Ocean is asking is because he keeping the database of good rebuilder going. So your feedback will either place a rebuilder in the don't use list or thumbs up list.

Personally, I like the needle valve stacked with a sintered metal snubber. The needle valve is there to shut off the fuel flow. The sintered metal snubber does an excellent job by itself but you still need distance from the tap point to protect the sensor.

If you have a 3 pin sensor then you have to use the ECM sensor ground in that plug. If you have a 1 pin like I do then you use the battery ground.

2 gauges and 2 sensors. Pressure sensors should be mounted about 5 feet from the tap point with a snubber at the tap point. Do not install the sensor right at the tap point, water hammer pulses are the strongest at the tap point.