Mopar1973Man

Steering box brace is good for oversized tires and wheels because the leverage forces they create. Hence why I'm not required for the brace using 245's. Cause and effect...

Here is a cleaning video I did years ago. Then for the 12V injectors...

I don't have to see it... I've already heard about it.

RPM loss will occur. You have not increased the HP of the motor to blow more air so, a bigger blower is just going to run slower. Ohm something out has to be disconnected. Ohming the windings isn't going to do much. I would be looking at the voltage at the blower. Just some simple theory and math... You can draw the same 20 amp but at different voltages and the workforce will change. This why I'm looking for power issues first before modifying the blower cage. If the motor is underfed and the blower cage is increased the flow will decrease too because of the lack of power to twist a heavier blower cage. watts (work force) = volts x amps 240 watts = 12 volts x 20 amps 280 watts = 14 volts x 20 amps So if the voltage is lower than battery voltage on high this means there is voltage drop between the supply and the motor. You would have to insure that the blower motor was capable of getting the same voltage on HI fan as the battery is running.

I highly suggest you un-do the noise filter mod. Creates bigger problems with masking the problem and you'll end up eating ECM's and VP44's.

Timing wise you can run +3 up. 14, 17, 20, 23 What I'm liking is +4 up. 14, 18, 22, 26 You might want to just read my article on tuning...

Do not do quick ratio. Only use quick ratio on stock and smaller tires. Your running 285's. Wrong ratio for larger tires and places too much stress on the box.

I would look at a way to increase the blower RPM.

I sent my fsctory bodies in for new 7 x 0.010 VCO injectors popped at 320 bar. They will be at home by Wednesday. I rather build exactly what I want than buying something someone else built and not know anything about the injectors. I've ran into that few times and to freaky to install mystery injectors not knowing if they will be smoky, last good 100k or drop pop pressure in 20k miles. Custom builds will always cost more but worth it in the long haul. You get exactly what you want. No random 6 injectors dropped in a box.

That wild I lost my first set of u-joints in 20k miles. Dried out no way to live them. Had driveshaft shop install a carrier bearing he spotted an worn u-joint. He replaced it with Spicer sealed. If failed pretty quick like 30k miles. Grease-able tend to last a good period of time as long as I push out some of the black grease. 366k and rolling... Napa joints in my front shaft are over 100k now. Rear shaft is close but not quite.

2003 and up have TIPM. We are old school relays and fuses.

First fix any slop you got. Make sure every thing is tight. Brakes need to be looked at for binding or sticking.

Not a fan of Spicer. Typically NAPA but most failure I've had was being lazy and not greasing all the joints. Like my front driveshaft is a PITA. Now front axle joints are breeze it grease up.

I've got one out the side.

Starting to look like a truck now. Compared to long ago with the body in cut pieces and trying to fab up the body. You are making good progress.

Typically you open the EXE file on Windows OS and it should load the driver for Windows USB. Then you would plug in the Quadzilla module with a USB Mini cord. Then Ask the updates to find the module. If it can find the module then I press update and it will take off flashing the module. There were about 2 or 3 updates to the 2.7 firmware. Let say... I'm a Ubuntu Linux 18.04 user and can update using VirtualBox running Windows 7.

I've got the diodes in my basement. Just gotta grab one and stuff it in the small flat rate box. Make sure to check your diode and be sure of the BATT+ terminal design. I've got the one that is straight out the back not out the side.

Flashing WTS is a sign of a problem typically. I'm trying to remember but something about the ECM booting or software error IIRC.

Grease-able u-joints only here. I rather take the time and shot the u-joint with grease every oil change and push out the old grease, water, and salts, etc then replace with fresh grease. Sealed u-joint for me typically end a short life being there is no way to push fresh grease unless you press then all back out. Too much of PITA to do.

Might look at the voltage at the blower. See how much voltage drop your getting. Check the voltage while running on HI and back probe the plug if possible.

I rebuilt plenty of Sagnaw boxes (Dodge and Ford). The only thing that is a pain in the butt is the all the BB's you have to work back into the worm gear. Sad to say people continue to save there photos on outside servers then kill the accounts. Then all the photos disappear.

Are you sure you running the last app for your device? (iQuad 1.9.41) Are you running the latest flash for the Quadzilla Module? As for me, I do not list the double like you do that leads me to believe you not on the current flash.

Don't feel bad. @pepsi71ocean called me and asked about TIPM on another Dodge product. He found both headlight bulb was blown and the TIPM module needed to be hard reset. Now works fine.

Take notice debris in the pan. That will tell you what is happening. When mine ate the torque converter there was plenty of metal in the pan. Then you know you are going to be rebuilding.

You only ask for a new VP44. Then @JAG1 proceeds to drop the intake manifold bolt down the engine side of the intercooler pipe. For an extra beer I would of do that gasket. But he never asked.