Mopar1973Man

Standard Sagnaw steering box. There is only the roller bearing on the output. The roller bearing washer inside. The worm gear is all ball bearing.

Testing for pinched or grounded wire required but ends to be open. So unplug the crank sensor and ECM. Red probe on the wire. Black probe on clean part of the block. Good wire = OL Bad wire shorted to ground = 0 ohms.

Maybe. If there is metal stuck to magnet of the sensor it can foul the magnetic field to the tone ring. As a metal tooth passes it creates an AC pulse. But with grease loaded graphite in the tone ring can do the same problem.

Sensor ground is not body grounds. Sensor grounds are reference to 5V generator not body ground.

Check the ABS speeds while driving then see if a sensors is dropping during braking. Like my case the right time ring would drop to 0 after slowing 30 MPH. Mine was not the sensor but the unit bearing is bad.

OL = over load. In ohm is infinite ohm. Which means open wire or broke wire.

Still I would discuss it with @Dynamic. There are mods you can't buy. Like my 46Re in my 96 Dodge has the clutch basket mill an extra 0.1 inch and stacked in extra clutch on direct and over drive. Then there is a spot in the bellhousing where you drill 2 oil holes for the clutches. Like I said you need to talk to him. These are tricks you can't buy in a kit.

Only thing vacuum controls is HVAC case and cruise control on automatics. Optional for exhaust brake. Vacuum assist was only on 1st gen trucks.

For what?

I've seen 23 degree once so far.

No air well... What's the power steering fluid look like?

Even a bad master cylinder could too.

Should help.

Adjustable fuel regulators you want to cycle the full in to full out. Then set your pressure. This frees up sticky regulator parts.

Air in the system. Brake pedal travel should be very little. Like my truck 1/2 inch of travel will put you in the dash.

Kind of want the new screen but kind of love the wireless. Neat to grab you mobile device and stand at the engine monitoring sensors and engine stats. Just wish the Bluetooth hooked up consistent every time. Lot of shut down and start up of the app.

Yeah I know. I tend to err on the side of safety. Being out here most all road are dirt beyond the highway so in all the years of working on diesel trucks I've found several where the dust has deform the filter, filters been washed so much the media had holes I mean holes in it, then the face of the compressor is dirty. I rather give the warning and catch a potential problem before it happens than "assume" its OK because every using it.

@dripley For all the service you given to WH Bass they should build you an awesome garage with all the tools and two post lift.

Because of being overwashed. Washed wrong. Not taken care of. So far I've seen a dusted engine on every version of the washable filter. Afe S&B K&N etc... They all sacrifice filtration for performance. They ALL pass more dust than the BHAF but flow better than BHAF. Seen way more engine dusted out with washable filters than BHAF. Still not found one yet.

Being the Quadzilla is wireless on Bluetooth you can pack off with the mobile device. Like myself, I can fire up the truck which is in the garage below and fire up my cellphone and leave at my desk and monitor the Cummins in Garage. No other tuner can do this.

Some jack like me is continuing to dig the bottom of the pit deeper. Like myself, I've never owned a diesel before 2002. I've never been to any school or even ASE certified. Totally self-taught diesel tech. Now I continue to learn from everyone around me and then learn from my own adventures and failures.

Awesome to hear members helping members. Remember there is the Member Map feature you can update your location using your cell phone to give an exact pinpoint location for rescue work. https://mopar1973man.com/membermap/

Crank sensor signal is frequency of AC voltage not DC. Its not the AC voltage you worry about but the frequency.

I would check the turbo. If that S&B filter is passing dust the turbo will be dirty. I would suggest changing to BHAF.

Yeah. You want to check the blue wire for 12V while the engine is running. Blue wire is the +12V lead.