Mopar1973Man

Having your injectors popped below 310 bar is a waste. So far everyone that has had re-popped injectors all showed a fairly good drop in pop pressure. @Dodgeih being the biggest drop.

I might just buy a 200 amp breaker fro the driver side battery and hook up the grid heater to the breaker. Then in the summer just push the button and let it open the circuit. Then in the winter close the breaker. Still, code free method. @IBMobile is more of in-cab control that doesn't trip the codes. California smog...

I can tell you Gates thermostats are junk. The 200*F thermostat I got has 30* swing from cold to hot. Heats up to 208*F pops open and drops to 188*F and starts over. Hottest I seen was pulling a 6% grade at 212*F. Then the coldest is pulling in to a parking lot idling at 175*F with an outside temperature of -4*F. Really? Never settles down at all. I'll be pulling this out and dumping it. Notice to others just because its name brand thermostat doesn't mean its good. Gates is a fail in my book. At least the NAPA thermostat are very stable and don't cycle like this. Typically the 190*F floats right at 195* to 197*F stable.

Use a mirror and a small flat blade screwdriver bent an L shape to hook the copper shims. There has to be something in the base of the hole if the injector isn't seating completely.

Remember some places like Idaho in general is not a smog state. But... Ada county and Canyon county is smog areas and are based on exactly what @IBMobile said. Ive spent enough time talking to one guy at a smog station in Boise.

Remember, that's injectors and a tuner. Take notice to timing.

Same here... I'll keep the heap...

Minus 50*F off that for correct EGT's as shown by my ISSPro. The Quad is +50*F higher.

Should reduce the EGT's some.

Sway bar... Not track bar. Vacuum pump did you install the shaft seal the right way? If you reverse the seal it will leak.

First I got to ask is the rubber all oily and greasy? Is the rubber soft and mushy holding the sway bar? If any of these are true then the bar might slide back and forth no matter how much you torque the fasteners. You might be forced to replace the rubber sway bar holders. At the same time fix the source of the oil leak. Engine oil is great at making rubber stuff mushy over time.

After the Cummins got the cold shoulder and the cold garage for 17 days I'm sure it's going to straighten up and act right. If not the little Red 1/2 ton will steal its glory again.

Even my Bluetop steering box needed a bit of tweak to take up slack in the gearbox brand new. I called Bluetop and asked Ryan about the slack. Even though they test everything out there is no way to load test box like in an actual steering condition so the sector adjustment typically is close but not tight enough for most.

Just so you can have big tires... $1,267 for steering box and hydraulic ram. Wow!

Don't want to sound totally stupid. I know the VAT tax is sort of taxing system for over in the UK. What is it exactly?

Could I ask if you done the W-T ground wire mod?

If you opt for adjusting the box. Keep something in mind there is a fast way to do this adjustment but it a bit tricky too. You can run the set screw all the way to the bottom as tight as you can go. This pushes the output shaft and gear downward into the rack. This makes the gear super tight and can break stuff. Now you have to set some slack back to the gears. Lifting on the pitman and output shaft now loosen the sector adjustment at least 1.5 to 2.0 full turns. Lock it down. The trick is if you don't help the output shaft back up as your turning the screw it will just come to a stop. you might have to use a rubber mallet to help it back up. This method is best when the pitman arm is not attached to the output shaft. The long way is to keep turning a 1/8 to 1/4 turn and checking over and over. This will take a considerable amount of time going back and forth.

Seems like both of us keep making three good steps towards our goals and then get kicked back two steps with another problem that empties the funds out and now leave you hanging. Yeah, we will get there eventually.

Might check again. I've seen the track bar bushing side fail and the bar is banging back and forth inside the bushing. Which would explain this because the bolt might be tight but the rubber bushing tore out and track bar is banging back and forth. That only happened to me once with a cheap Autozone track bar.

You could. Nothing wrong with that... Might want to check. Hate to see you install and have to pull them back out again.

Trust me I know the feeling. I still got to do my injectors yet. After all that I spent on the PCM, alternator, and misc parts I'm having fairly empty Christmas. Might get to the injectors by January or February.

If it budget minded I would just re-pop what you got. If you got funds to burn then change the nozzles up.

Simply put the bottom limit of injectors are 293 bar according to Dodge FSM manual. If they are popped 305 +/- 5 bar which makes the lowest injector 300 bar and just another 7 bar lower you'll be out of specifications again. Why do they do this?

With this being said 5 speed is the best transmission out there. They always said the 6 speed had a beefer input shaft and didn't have the 5th gear nut problem. The funny part is my 5 speed held up just fine it was only the main shaft that failed at the 3rd/4th gear. Now 6 speeds have bushing problems and can't handle power.

Why do all the shops always pop them low? Right out of the FSM. Then within the next little bit of mileage, the pop pressure will fall a bit more after everything settles. It sure does shorten the injectors lifespan before the pressure falls off again.