Mopar1973Man

Actually, the fuel leaving the back of the head with 190*F thermostat will heat the fuel to near coolant temperatures. Like most will tell you and me. Keep your fuel tank above 1/2 tank and temperatures stay down. Like this last summer with temps as high as 100 to 110*F for the summer, I never got past the 127 to 132*F in fuel temperature. Even after sitting in a parking lot, asleep in the cab for 2.5 hours with the A/C going woke up to fuel temperature still hanging at 125*F. As long as the fuel tank is kept 1/2 tank or better the temperature isn't a problem.

If popped at 300 bar sure will. 310 bar or slightly high will clean them right up. After talking to @pepsi71ocean about his being just re-popped to 325 bar it cleaned them right up. What I'm finding out is all injectors settle shortly after being built. Yeah, you can have RV275 injectors that are not flow matched or pop matched. Basically, 6 random injectors shipped to you. Then have them in about 10k to 20k miles drop about 10 bar as everything wears in. Be a different story if the RV275's were flow matched within % volume and pop matched within % of bar for the set of 6 sent to you. That is what I'm fighting now is my current (7 x 0.0085) were popped to 305 bar now are below the 293 bar bottom limit. I'm sure they're more in the 260 to 270 bar range now with the amount of white smoke and lower MPG numbers. Only got about 75k miles on them. The stock injector is like a 7 x 0.0061 vs 7 x 0.0065 RV275 (IIRC). The +90 HP is 7 x 0.0085

Closing in on 400k miles... I don't think it's a serious issue.

Maybe down in New Mexico. Sure don't want to have cooler up here I've already seen -20*F this winter. The other part is if you running Quadzilla you want about 80 to 140*F fuel temperature which is fine. Above the 140*F is getting too warm. Typically the fuel temperature and the IAT run side by side for temperature.

SET OF 6 BRAND NEW GENUINE BOSCH OE INJECTORS RV275 - $379.00 Or Cheaper yet. DAP 90HP PERFORMANCE INJECTORS 7X0.0085 VCO - $349.00 Doesn't make any sense to buy RV275 injectors which are higher priced. RV275's are not pop tested or flow matched.

Heck of lot easier to set up that heavy piece of cast iron.

They sell the collars for pop testing.

Won't work for guys in California or smog control states. @IBMobile will have a grid heater control without error codes very soon.

Do the pull cable if you are going to keep the CAD...

CAD axles I really don't like them at all. On1996 Dodge Ram 1500 with the CAD axle all I've got to do is have it locked in 4WD and start pulling a bit more throttle on a grade and the axle will UNLOCK. Sucks. When you need the axle to hold locked the vacuum in the manifold drops and the CAD unlocks and now your 2WD. Then when you let up off the throttle again the CAD locks again. Now on the 2002 Cummins solid axles never have that problem. Had this on an 80's Chevy S10 pickup too. That sucked. Every time you pulling a grade the axle would unlock and go back to 2WD because vacuum would drop away. Vacuum controlled axles are a bad idea period.

Don't turn tight! It puts a huge amount of stress on the 4WD and breaks stuff. 4WD is meant to be used while traveling straight mostly or slick conditions where the tires can slip. When locked in 4WD and on hard pack is really rough on the transfer case.

Check that fuse again with ohm meter. If the fuse is cracked the load will make it open up. Then flicker begins. I've seen the same thing with the starter solenoid fuse. Better yet just swap the fuse just to for the test.

LS differential is not needed. Both of my truck is standard open differential and run awesome in the snow and ice.

I would suggest looking towards Smarty Touch for CR tuning.

I think that most people abuse and overuse silicone sealants. Our engines were put together without sealant for most of it. The only thing that is sealed with silicone is the gear case.

I would have them tested and then talk to @dieselautopower about having them popped. It could be a poor spray pattern. I know its Russian but it shows a clear bad injectors... Now notice the good fine mist on this one...

Lag won't change much. Lag is typically a timing issue a lack of retard. When you change throttle from light to heavy quickly you need a good amount of retard to make the flame and expanding fuel on the exhaust stroke to spool the turbo. Once the turbo lights or boost is starting to rise then you need to flip back to advanced timing to keep the fuel burning. If only had some timing control. Smaller injectors aren't really going to fix this problem. Even your wore out stockers will have the same problem because the pop pressure is too low. The problem is the droplets or mist is too big and taking too much time to convert the fuel to vapor and go bang. This is pop pressure problem. I've got this problem right now my pop pressure is too low and the lag time and fuel atomization is poor.

Same here the old acid core I got hasn't been any problem so far in what I've used it for. You have to remember that the lead/tin mixture seals the copper. So the acid part is only there for a short time and the lead/tin seals the copper. I only use it for the big cable stuff. I've got small diameter flux core solder but it for smaller soldering jobs.

Did you have the injectors pop tested yet?

Check fuse G in the PDC. Then try trading the Fog Lamp relay. The fog lamp and headlight share the same ground in the cab.

The only thing I can say is to verify the CCD network is plugged into the overhead module. Without the CCD network the overhead computer can get any data from ABS, PCM or the ECM. ABS controls the speed and distance. The PCM sends the fuel level signal and the ECM sends the fuel consumption rate. The sad part is the MPG part is typically way off the mark because it only calibrated for stock injectors and no tuner.

Bingo. Again this is a problem both Edge juice and Quadzilla both have in using the boost information from the MAP sensor. Being there is 3 different MAP sensors used and at least two different versions of ECM software used for boost information it does make things a bit of a mess. The only thing the Quadzilla does is verify the sensor is working. As for accuracy I wouldn't suggest use the Quadzilla for boost readings.

Very True. If the wrong bar was installed that is too short then the axle will pull to the driver side. The only other cause is someone installed a leveling kit. This will push the axle downwards away from the frame at the same time pull on the trackbar to the driver side. I'm sad to admit I watch my boss install a lift kit on a Ford and we pulled the track bar loose to get the spring low enough to install the spacers. When we tried to install the track bar again it was too short and the axle had to be pulled to the driver side with a come-a-long to get the axle bolt in. I told my boss that was right... But still sent the truck home.

Mine is close to right on down low but skews as boost pressure go up. This why I tend to use my a-pillar gauges more so than Quadzilla display. Quadzilla isn't the only one with this issue. Edge Juice does too.

Can you hold your old bar up next to the new one and verify the bar length?