Mopar1973Man

Darn steering box brace... Oversize tire places a lot of stress on the box and frame especially offroading. Glad I'm not in that boat nor do I require it. 350k miles on the OEM box and still not damaged after 16 years. It was mostly so the rust that killed my box where the rust got back under the seal and created the leak. Beyond that Ryan said my box was in excellent shape replaced the input cap and had it sold in less than 1 hour.

Keep us posted.

Like my HX35/40 hybrid there is no ring to silence the turbo noise. No option for it either. If you upgrade turbos you'll lose the silencer ring for sure. That was a Dodge only thing. Pulling grade where boost starts to climb it sound like a turboprop getting down the runway. You could make a BHAF muffler to help silence some of that noise. I'm running a Diamond Eye 4 inch exhaust on my truck with the supplied muffler. Cruising state is just fine fairly quiet in the cab. Towing, drone gets to be an issue now with 4-inch pipe which I've never had with 3-inch exhaust. Wide Open Throttle she still talks quite loudly. I've got the muffler in the stock location is it made it simple for all the hardware to hook up.

Typically it should lock the fan by about 205 to 208F. The far end of the normal range 225F.

Man, that is one thing I'm glad I've never got to do. Open diff just change fluids and drive on.

Novembers records...

Radiator face plugged? Fan clutch working? Thermostat functional? Strange but true I've been running without a fan altogether the last week and have trouble getting over 188*F. No towing but still climbing 3 grades never even hit 190*F.

That should do ya...

Bad wheel bearing. The tone wheel is breaking loose from the hub. This is how mine failed. The bear was fine but the tone wheel would get lose and create the same cutting out of speed signal on the one hub. I tested all my wiring by ohm test from pin to pin and no problems found. You can jumper from pin to pin at the wheel. Then ohm out at the ABS module. Mine all reported like 0.1 to 0.2 ohms which is a passing grade. But seeing the speed reported the tone ring would spin free and drop the speed signal. Replace the bearing problem gone.

D'Oh! I must of needed more coffee.

I'm shocked for $29 radio. Like what the heck passes there your mind...

First off Riggins, ID can reach 115*F in the summer this is normal. Steep grade are plentiful. There are few unmarked 20% floating around. Elevation ranges from 800 feet to 9,000 feet at Heaven's Gate. Even New Meadows, ID this summer was 105*F. Actually no not true. You be cooler. EGT's will drop and the engine load will be less. I've enjoyed towing my RV and trailer with the new tires. I can stand on the throttle and never reach 1,200*F. The only thing I did was turn off the wire tap. Still running Quadzilla CanBus fuel and timing. The RV I can slowly accelerate on 6% grade still gain speed but slowly. Coolant temps only rose to 208*F, locked the fan then dropped to 195*F continue to hold the lock till I reached the top. Just for weight specs. These tires were my 235's I did have EGT's issues with these and had to slow way down to prevent overheating on some grades.

Now pay attention to flat ground EGTs while cruising. 600F and below will typically net you 20+MPG.

There is two weak spot the signal ground wire which is bare (no jacket). Then the contacts of the switch. In the off position, it should pass thru to from male to female connectors on both ECT and IAT The MPG mode IAT should see a resistance on the IAT plug to the ECM. The 6 cyl mode both the ECT and IAT should see resistance on the ECM side of the plugs. The 3 cyl mode just and IAT should see resistance on the ECM side.

Correct. There is TSB filed between Dodge and Cummins stating that Cummins wasn't allowed to retrofit ECM or software on the dodge trucks.

I'm not sure if the Quadzilla will work with industrial application ECM. No since in converting to RV series stuff stay with the factory Dodge stuff. Quadzilla can tune much better than any of the factory fueling or timing maps which typically are heavily retarded and built around EPA emissions and smog regulations. Quadzilla can produce cleaner tunes and better economy than any factory tune could. Being we build around performance and economy you can reach a better goal!

Sorry to say that was an Ed Grafton @Yankneck696 design. The flaw in the design was the entire cable is soldered to the back of the switch. The weight of the cable will pull the contacts out of the switch creating the problem. His design wasn't possible to rebuild because of everything soldered to the cable to the switch making it a requirement to build a new unit each failure. There is a reason we dropped that design and updated to the PCB design this way if the switch wears out we can repair the unit by unsoldering and replacing the switch as needed. We went to a modular design so we can replace pieces of the unit easier. As you'll see we do carry replacement parts for the newer version. https://mopar1973man.com/store/category/22-mopar1973man-high-idle/ So in a nutshell we cannot repair your unit. The only solution is to replace it completely and move up to the newer design.

Now I'm ordering updated USB cords for my LG G5 which is a Type C cable and then a USB cable for my Garmin 42LM which is Type B Mini cable. Then the very last cigarette light plug which is the Cobra Radar Detector. I bought a hardwire kit for it. No more cigarette lighter plugs. This will leave my power point plug empty. Then the 2 cords for the USB charger but that is on a key switch circuit. No more draws to eat the batteries! This project will be completed. Stuff will be here by Tuesday.

Actually, it does impact the final ratio to the ground. Your final would be 3.42 to the ground. Like myself with 245/75 R16 my final to the ground is 3.69. Yes, the 1 inch does impact towing abilities and EGT's... Orange wire.

The normal span. Low side is 165*F and the high side is 225*F. The 190*F is in the middle.

Yea... It's an alternator problem for sure.

Yes. I cheated on mine. When I installed the Kenwood stereo it didn't need the dash illumination lead so I routed it to the gauges. As for power connection I tapped once and created a 4 terminal strip with... +12V Battery power protected by 20 amp fuse. +12V Keyed hot protected by a 20 amp fuse. Illumination strip Ground

Too much. Need to drive by pyrometer. Once you crossed the 1,100*F mark you should of geared down and kicked back up to 2k RPM and resume. I've got to ask what is the final gear ratio and the tire size?

I've got a hunch its the APPS sensor. Typically people fall for the adjusting the APPS voltage line which is totally wrong. Then over adjust the voltage and get the APPS stuck in throttling mode and now the APPS never reaches idle position and can run the ECM idle software. This would cause high idling issues. Then if the APPS is damaged and going out of range too much then the ECM drop the throttle to ZERO and disregards the APPS sensor for a period of time because either too low of voltage or too high which can be seen as WOT on steroids. So to keep the driver safe the ECM just drops the fuel to zero and doesn't listen to the APPS sensor. Quadzilla wise it listens to the CANBus and basically hijacks the data and reassigns fuel and timing commands and sets the priority bit to override the ECM. Quadzilla has zero control of idle functions only the ECM does. Once the RPM falls below I think about 1,000 to 1,200 range the Quadzilla gives up control and hands back to ECM. Now as for the cutting out completely you should be able to set TPS and Engine load up on the Quadzilla display and monitor both. When it does cutout see if the TPS drops. With the ignition on and engine off you should be able to work the throttle slowly up and watch for sudden drop outs or spikes. This would show a bad APPs sensor.

@NIsaacs cheater! You are using tire chains too. I did mine on a straight pull up a steep bank in front of the house.