Mopar1973Man

Sounds like the ECM is damaged on the grid heater circuit. It should of INSTANTLY power up both the grid heater relay on the key ON ran for about 15 seconds. Then clicked off. It should have had +12V power at the smaller wires. Try something disconnect the little wires on the grid heater relays and then turn the key on and see if it sets a P0380 code and P0382 code this will tell if the ECM can even see the relays. Another passing thought. The Battery temperature sensor and the IAT sensor both control grid heaters. If the battery temperature sensor is damaged or reporting high temp then the grid heaters might be disabled.

I can say without a doubt that was an abuse case. Even with all my document and record keeping even with standard anti-freeze and creek water or well water my engine is nowhere near that. Am I using spec'ed coolant. (Current is NAPA coolant) Nope. Distilled water nope. Nowhere even close to that kind of problem. The difference is I don't continue to run coolant forever which tend to create this issue. Block is still absolutely clean inside, I asked when my head was in the shop they didn't need to clean the coolant jacket at all. Spotless inside. Scale buildup is typically caused when the coolant is left in too long. The pH level of the coolant goes corrosive and the coolant starts eating everything it's touching. Like my 1996 Dodge had factory coolant in the truck when I bought it. It was already too old and was eating the metal thermostat housing. Yes this was spec'ed coolant from the manufacturer (Dodge). Just like the pictures above that is corrosion damage from lack of pH control. Very old too. I've kept my documentation rolling from start till now. Still clean!

For the best performance of heating and A/C you should just replace both units in the HVAC case. While the case is out lube all the door pivots. Inspect the blend door coupler. Might replace the blower motor and resistor if they have serious age on them. Attempting to flush a heater is rather futile. There is no way to ensure all the tube got cleaned out. Years ago on my 73 Dodge Charger, I got bold enough to pull the heater core unsolder the ends and using wiper blade rods I rodded out the heater core and re-soldered the end back on worked great but the tubes were already thin and didn't take long for the tubes to leak afterward. The reason I when down this road was, I tried all the flushing and scale chemical I could with little gains. Rodding out heater core makes it function like new. Being as most of the newer heater cores are now aluminum there is no way to disassemble and rod out and reassemble. Same thing with the evaporator. Best to just replace them and move on.

48 here... I was looking for my electrical dikes and hunted all over the shop, work benches, double check last places I could remember were I might have used dikes last. Hey, dummy! Look in the toolbox the dikes were right there in the drawer where they should be. I just did this yesterday and wasted over 2 hours looking for them.

Check the fuses as well I've seen strange things happen to those square fuses. They can crack and look fine but the power to the circuit is random or weak at times. Use an ohm meter to verify. One day mine would crank for short period then quit. Turn the key off and wait a few minutes. Now try again the same thing short burst of the starter and then dead. The fuse for the starter had cracked. Soon as a heavy load placed on the fuse it separated at the crack opening the circuit. Let it cool and it would close again making contact. Really simple I traded the starter fuse for another problem solved. Just needed to replace the cracked fuse. Wiring can do the same thing if its loose. Load place a loose cable I've seen them move and do weird things. Make sure your master power lead the short red from the driver side positive to the PDC is secure and clean. Remember that stud won't take a huge amount of torque. You can pull any fuse here and test the bus for +12V during the times of failure. This would point to an issues between the battery and PDC. You need to check fuse 2 and fuse 10 in the PDC. As for in the cab you need to check fuse 9 which is the power to the ECM/PCM. You can use a simple test light during the times it's not working to see if power is to this point.

I'm sure not running the cable all the way back over ot the other side. This why I thought of the fusible link instead of the fuse. The fuse is a problem being it the element ever cracks on you your charging system is dead. Fusible link if you find that it blew you can strip and twist the ends back together again. DVM or a test light would verify that pretty quick.

Yeah, I've ran Edge Comp for many years with stock injectors, RV275 injectors (+40 HP) and Vulcan Performance +50 HP injectors. The major problem is the Edge Comp tune is all wrong for any injector above stock. Timing is wrong and the fuel map is wrong this why the big hang-up with smoke in the early year and people had to run small injectors to stay out of trouble. Now with the Quadzilla controlling fueling and timing you can run much bigger injectors and no worry about smoke issues. Like @Me78569 lives in Colorado which is a smog state like California. He was very capable of passing emission test with 7 x 0.010 injectors and the Quadzilla. Currently, I'm running 7 x 0.0085 injectors or +75 HP and smoke free for the most part. All about your fuel management and timing set up. Enough early retard to build boost fast and get into your high timing bands. Fuel managment to lag your fuel till it spools the turbo good enough. All these factors Edge Products can't do. (Edge EZ, Edge Comp or the Edge Juice).

Good question attempting to find a 140 amp fuse?

Still in all the best way is to pull the HVAC case. All the flushing in the world won't fix debris problems.

Manifold temperature so you don't melt a piston. Aluminum melts at about 1,281°F. After the turbo is going to be much lower in temperature.

Timing will impact EGTs. Typical cruise timing should be about 19 to 20 degrees for 2,000 RPM. This will vary a bit truck to truck. Higher timing typically makes cooler EGTs. Being your using the MM3 you might need to tweak your tune.

Plugged heater core possibly too. With a 190°F thermostat it 163°F out of the center vents idling in zero degree weather. Even my 180°F is still cooking me in the cab.

Heck just good fuel management will do more that all the bolt on mods you can buy.

Red / white that comes in the cab.

243k miles on my last VP44. @dripley is going to beat me on the VP44 lifespan. ...and they said the NV4500 had weak input shafts and 5th gear nut problems. Never had any issues with either. I proved them wrong when I broke the mainshaft in half at the 3rd/4th gear syncros with nothing more than Edge Comp and +50 HP injectors. I tend to take most of this transmission weakness as rumor now. As for all the transmission fears I don't buy into them at all. Now I'm running +75 HP injectors and Quadzilla which is way more power than Edge Comp and +50 HP.

I know @dieselautopower has that same book and he could answer the specs.

Comparing notes with @pepsi71ocean my injectors are about the same stages as his +100HP and getting low in the pop pressures.

Stay stock...

RV275 are ISB stock injectors for the RV series engine. Yes, they are VCO. You are better off getting a tuner before considering playing with injectors. Even RV275 are going to be smokey and laggy because of the lack of timing to fit the injectors. This was common back in the days before Quadzilla. There is no way to increase fueling without smoke when you are without a tuner. Jus the tuner alone will jump you forward +180 HP that is clean compared to a mere +40 HP of RV275 injectors that will be still smokey because of lack of tuning.

First I would fix all the external leaking. Even if it just the vent tube. Power wash the engine clean so you can be sure. The amount lost could just a fluke. Check again on the next oil change.

Now to source out a 10 AWG fusible link...

Air brake line is typically rated for 600 PSI bust point. Fuel and oil resistant. Where cheap oil pressure gauge kits typically get brittle and break with slight flexing. Air brake tubing is way stronger and more tolerant of heat and flexing. I've got roughly 4 years on my tubing still flexible and holding up good.

Agreed!

362k miles... Still rolling the odometer...

@IBMobile for our 140 Amp alternator what would you suggest for a fusible link for that?