Mopar1973Man

Actually, it does impact the final ratio to the ground. Your final would be 3.42 to the ground. Like myself with 245/75 R16 my final to the ground is 3.69. Yes, the 1 inch does impact towing abilities and EGT's... Orange wire.

The normal span. Low side is 165*F and the high side is 225*F. The 190*F is in the middle.

Yea... It's an alternator problem for sure.

Yes. I cheated on mine. When I installed the Kenwood stereo it didn't need the dash illumination lead so I routed it to the gauges. As for power connection I tapped once and created a 4 terminal strip with... +12V Battery power protected by 20 amp fuse. +12V Keyed hot protected by a 20 amp fuse. Illumination strip Ground

Too much. Need to drive by pyrometer. Once you crossed the 1,100*F mark you should of geared down and kicked back up to 2k RPM and resume. I've got to ask what is the final gear ratio and the tire size?

I've got a hunch its the APPS sensor. Typically people fall for the adjusting the APPS voltage line which is totally wrong. Then over adjust the voltage and get the APPS stuck in throttling mode and now the APPS never reaches idle position and can run the ECM idle software. This would cause high idling issues. Then if the APPS is damaged and going out of range too much then the ECM drop the throttle to ZERO and disregards the APPS sensor for a period of time because either too low of voltage or too high which can be seen as WOT on steroids. So to keep the driver safe the ECM just drops the fuel to zero and doesn't listen to the APPS sensor. Quadzilla wise it listens to the CANBus and basically hijacks the data and reassigns fuel and timing commands and sets the priority bit to override the ECM. Quadzilla has zero control of idle functions only the ECM does. Once the RPM falls below I think about 1,000 to 1,200 range the Quadzilla gives up control and hands back to ECM. Now as for the cutting out completely you should be able to set TPS and Engine load up on the Quadzilla display and monitor both. When it does cutout see if the TPS drops. With the ignition on and engine off you should be able to work the throttle slowly up and watch for sudden drop outs or spikes. This would show a bad APPs sensor.

@NIsaacs cheater! You are using tire chains too. I did mine on a straight pull up a steep bank in front of the house.

You might have to unbolt the 4 from the block and remove the entire unit. Be careful with the engine hanging on the hoist 1,100 pound engine can do serious harm. Being you are enjoying the egg-nog be safe while your working! Might be a good time to pull them both and inspect them might be getting tired after all the years of holding torque.

Clue... Dead pedal comes from two places. Either bad APPS sensor which typically with pop a P0121, P0122 or P0123 code instantly. The only other device that can create a dead pedal is VP44 which may or may not trip any codes at all. We need to see your fuel pressure and error codes. A lot of error codes do not set the check engine light. Suggestion is turn the Quadzilla to ZERO and see if it repeats. I really don't think the Quadzilla is responsible, personally.

I guess Spencer need to get the Quadzilla into someone's hands and break that record.

Is that Stainless Diesel?

Does good and strong for mulching grass and leaves up in the fall of the year. Just changing direction and turning you have to do it slowly from a stopped position. These machines have a serious amount of torque and can rip up grass with the tires. Let's say I climbed a hill too steep and managed to roll mine over the top of myself. Nose came up, natural to lean forward to counterbalance but push the sticks forward too and the flipped right on over. Yeah that hurt having a machine flop over the top of you. The oil pressure switch shut it down. I was not hurt per se just a bit beat up and bruised. So yes these machines can climb way more than you think! True. Chain store is an MTD mower. Typically you can find the label on the mower to verify. MTD is a major maker of most chain store lawn mowers. https://www.mtdproducts.com/equipment/mtdproducts

The old 600 HP boundary is no longer a lot of people have passed the 1,000 HP mark with VP44 fuel only.

Right now I don't even have a fan on the engine running without a fan all together. 180*F thermostat barely get to 188*F without the fan climbing 6% grade. (Not towing). Now towing I'll have the fan back in place but I barely tip 205*F most trips over a grade and the fan locks and pull back down to 193*F and unlock before I reach the top. Long enough grade in might cycle in and out several times.

No, not yet. the 3.94 was more or lest there beta testing grounds. I would try going back to the 2.7 version and see if it keeps the setting. It could a software bug biting you.

Still in all, I've never had a temperature problem on my truck typically stay well below 215*F all the time even towing heavy.

Wrong vehicle. V2 Dodge 1998-2002 - Version 2.7 is current.

Are you set on the right vehicle?

Another way is to set up the EGT cooldown feature and see if the engine stays running after the key is turned off. If so both leads are correct. Might be time to contact Spencer @Quadzilla Power and ask him. @Me78569 might know too.

Head gasket... I just got done do that. Mine leaked at the very same spot.

No. They are not equal. All your chain store mowers typically are an MTD mower with a different brand name. Typically you'll get roughly 5 to 8 years from one. I finally looked beyond that and moved on to a Raptor Zero Turn which was more like $2,500 for the unit. Previously the chain store lawn mowers would fail typically with the blades or blade housings. Last one I had from WalMart I could barely clip a tree rot and the blade would twist up and be ruined. Now with the Hustler Raptor below that is build like a real lawn mower. Blades last a long time before needing sharping. Blade housing and belts are built strong. Then zero turn is the bonus. I can cut a 10 acre lot in just about 1 hour running wide open at nearly 6 MPH,

Make sure both red leads are hooked up. There is one red lead that goes to +12V battery and the red white that goes in the cab to fuse #9 if I'm not mistaken.

Double check to see if it a 3 wire sensor or 1 wire sensor.

I'm interested in how that goes... Keep us posted on that!

I totally agree. Most likely the face of the radiator is plugged with oil or mud. Then fan clutch is not locking fully. Poor thermostat function or no fully opening. Rare but broken water pump blades.