Mopar1973Man

You want your cruise timing to float about 20* at 2,000 RPM's. I'm much higher at 22 to 23 degrees of timing at cruise for 2K RPM. My 2,000 RPM happens at 66 MPH which is 3.69:1 final ratio to the ground (245/75 R16 with 3.55 gears). Set up your cruise timing there and then road test. Then nudge the timing up another degree and check the engine load and pyrometer. As you advance timing EGT and Engine Load will fall. The other factor is quality of the injectors and the pressure they are pop tested for. As injectors slide on pop pressure the timing will naturally advance but the droplets will become larger. Once a injector drop below about 280 bar efficiency falls off fast. I don't see any injectors list ed in the signature so I'm assuming it stock 235 HP injectors. If so I'm going to bet they are worn out.

Look at the regulator. I've got a similar problem right now and know might is because how I bent the last coil of the spring. It's causing the regulator to wander up and down the same way. When my check ball gets on center and stays then the whole floating up and down goes away and nearly rock solid 17 PSI at idle and stays above 15 at WOT. Lately it random drops will make the drop worse at WOT operation. I know it all the regulator screwing up on my AirDog 150. DDRP has the other flaw being your plumbing is too small if it's still hooking up to banjo bolts and stock fuel lines.

Wow. That is extremely high. I'm typically 19 to 22% engine load at 65 MPH for +75HP injectors. You got to look into you total drag, tires are a factor still rotational weight.

What we need is to find out RPM, engine load, at lets say 65 MPH.

Sound those need pop testing too. You should be able to clean those up.

At least final ratio is close enough 3.55 to work with. Working with MPG tuning I suggest you grab an app called Simply Auto. Now you want to start tracking your MPG number. Now only make one change at a time. Don't change too much stuff at once. If you start your cruise timing at 20 degrees at 2,000 RPM it will be close.

Build another tune for those sticks.

I would talk to @Dynamic he sells kits so you can rebuild transmissions yourself or supply you local rebuilder. Its a solution to youtransmission issues. Electrical stuff isn't so bad as long as your capable of understanding electricity and electrical test tools. Some people are not electrical minded.

You might still cut the filter open and check the filter media condition. Like Dodge owners manual states 15,000 miles but I cut my AirDog filter open and found a near new filter yet. I kept expanding the interval till I reached 60k miles and found filter that is getting dirty looking. Still even that far out I never had any fuel pressure drop.

Sure don't help when Moog selling incomplete parts.

Now that is what I expect for prices about $1,000 to $2,000 for an engine. I can see $2,000 to $2,500 for a complete engine with ECM and fuel system intact.

I would say stay safe at 20 PSI. Above that I can't tell you how much pressure it will take to blow the front seal out of the VP44 pump. Now if you capped the fuel line at the VP44 and then pressurize the line would be a different story. I would say then you can push it up to 40 PSI without damaging the plastic lines.

No longer exist anymore. Castrol Syntorque is no longer manufactured. Yeah, I know the AMSOil claim to have an oil that meets all the spec comes at quite a price. This is why I started breaking the bond of name brands and scares of wrong fluids. Basically what it requires is GL-4 lubricant. You can be anywhere from 75 weight to 90 weight gear oil. Like PenzOil Syncromesh is used in the NV5600 transmission but it doesn't meet the GL-4 spec because its too thin. It could be used because its designed for all the GL-4 specs like yellow metal protection which the syncros require. Like I said before people tend to favor the light viscosity of oil because of better shift performance. The down side is that it will become to thin in the summer under working loads.

What pump are you using? It looks like a regulator issue. Filter would fall to low pressure or zero under load. Electrical typically is really wild swings hi and lo. This mild swing up and down looks like a regulator sticking or hanging up and the kicking shut when the pressure falls and builds again. Be aware you can program the hysteresis of the gauge needle and slow the reaction time or speed it up. There is an extra plug on the back for programming.

Right the hell on... An actual photo of the Dripley and IBMobile... Heck, your longs ways from home IBMobile. I'm glad the Mopar1973Man is bringing people together and meeting face to face. What would of been crazy is tossing JAG1 in the pile. Two carpenter telling tales. Hopefully I still get the chance to meet you Dripley.

Out here a used Cummins engine are rare as hen's teeth and then cost a small fortune to just buy someone junk engine. Heck, they still sell truck up here for $15,000 and up yet. Man, I'd love to be able to find an engine like that to build for my own truck.

Heck I just used a normal propane torch and heated the crimp up good and hot and touch the solder to the crimp instant flow. Let cool and I was done. No soldering iron used. As for shrink tube I'm not worried being I've NEVER had battery terminal corrosion yet. Yeap, still got my factory battery cables and terminals in perfect condition yet... Just use a bit of engine oil that's all. Heck, you can even see the burn spot that my propane torch produced on the air tube.

180*F and 190*F are the normal book listing for thermostats. If you want a 200*F you have to use a 6.7L thermostat from like 2007 and up.

Might try a Quadzilla Adrenaline and crank up some timing. I'm running a 180*F thermostat rolling down the road at 60-65 MPH I hover at about 185-190*F. When I come to a stop and allow the Quadzilla to cool down everything to 275 EGT's the coolant drops to a mere 175*F. The 180*F thermostat gave me room to run the high timing. On the 190*F thermostat, I was pushing over the top of 202*F too much for me.

293 bar (4,250 PSI) is the bottom end of the stock pop pressure. 310 bar (4,500 PSI) is stock injector pop pressure. ...or 602 PSI increase on spray at idle.

Where are all you picking up these cheap engines at?

This is one reason I will not suggest or recommend Moog parts. Quality is gone.

ATF+4 was available back in 94 if I'm not mistaken. No I don't think it would be a good choice. Even the G56 transmission is spec"ed for ATF+4 but Mercedes calls for GL-4 lubricant.

Ummm... I would say you need a synthetic GL-4 lubricant. Most tend to like the light viscosity oils I went to Mobil 50 SAE used in Eaton Fuller transmissions. Cleared 100k with no issues works got in cold climate as well down to -40F.

Motor is overheating from bad bearings and blew the resistor. Typically it is the blower motor to blame.