Mopar1973Man

Same here. Mine would the same as yours.

Yeah I would say send it back for warranty work

The speed data is digital. So both wires are required. Then if the CCD network is down to any device then the ECM or PCM would toss either P1694 or P1698 codes. So if there are neither codes then the network is functional. If the ECM has no CCD signal... If the PCM has no signal...

So far after playing with the Edge Juice and Smarty Touch. Both have TINY screens and very difficult to read when those screens are considerably smaller than my LG G5 cell phone. The other problem I don't like is being I travel to the city anything that is hung in the window becomes target especially if its a tuner. Thieves love to steal your vehicle if they know there are some goodies worth selling on the black market. Edge Juice and Smarty Touch you end up with a fixed monitor in the vehicle and now your truck is a target for being broke into or stolen. The other problem is suction cup mounts are illegal in many states. Like Smarty Touch is mounted with a suction cup. Edge Juice requires a special a-pillar. I'm using a suction cup mount on my Garmin 42LM and that damn thing falls off the glass quite often. I really hate the idea of suction cup mounts.

Mine is just a tapered point.

No. What I'm saying is to inspect your current wiring. The speed signal is already used by the ECM to cancel the grid heaters.

Ground. All it does is prevent certain error codes from occurring for PTO options.

I'll make a quick post on this. If you have truck that got the OEM rear sway bar end links still I highly suggest replacing them very soon. I'm learning just because something can last that long doesn't mean its a good idea to leave in that long. I ended up pulling the entire rear sway bar to just replace the end links. I had to stick each end in my table vise and heat them with MAP gas torch nice and hot and beat them out with a 6-pound hammer. You'll find Dodge really screwed up and has the bolt inserted from the wrong direction on the driver side. The fuel tank is in the way. So you end up pulling the mounting bracket which has 2 nuts. Mine was so bad the passenger side I pull the link right off the ball which was rusted and too small to hold in the cup any longer. The passenger side was in much better condition but sloppy. It was put together 16 years ago and now the rust and the parts are nearly welded together. Sorry, no pictures on this its a fairly straightforward task of replacement. I will say that it much easier to remove the entire rear sway bar and work with it in a table vise than laying on the floor attempting to beat the ball studs out.

Either modify the transmission to get lockup in 2nd and/or use an exhaust brake made for the 47RE. All current PacBrake's will give at least lock up in 3rd and 4th gear. @Dynamic has a way to get lockup in 2nd Gear.

Good reason for an exhaust brake.

Well DRBIII tool would be the best. OBDII might help out a bunch and see what the speed signal is reporting on the CCD network. Other than that I would say check the speed sensor circuit to the rear by disconnecting at the rear speed sensor and the ABS module. Using a paperclip make a jumper between contacts on the rear sensor plug. Now measure the ohms at the ABS plug and see what you get. This will verify the wiring for you. If you got time and can get the speed sensor out of the rear diff. Look and see if the tone ring is lined up to the hole. I've heard of one member that lost a carrier bearing the entire carrier shifted towards one side and the tone wheel was not visible in the speed sensor hole.

Suggestion to your interior mod. This is something I'm going to do very soon.

Little trick hang the carpet over a fence or a picnic table and use a power washer with wide angle tip. It will clean that carpet to look nearly new. I've done this to my 1996 Dodge turned out awesome. As for the plastic I know some don't like Armor-all but if applied right it will help plastics from getting brittle. HVAC I did awhile back fresh evaporator and heater core.

Quadzilla is of by about +50F EGT actually it starts refueling at 1250 or so and full cut by 1350F. If I set it at 1200F it defueling before it even gets close to a problem.

Not worried about it. Quadzilla on level 3 with my foot to the floor with the RV hitched up I can't reach 1,200*F. Floats right at about 1,100 to 1,150 EGT's.

Ah that why... You never filed in your signature. I'm assuming later 2nd gen with the CCD network bus. Sometimes I work off my phone and read only the last few and rely on the signature for information since there is no signature. Hard to know.

Won't work then... Need to be a single channel with double IVS switches. Timbos shows the APPS on one side and the IVS on the other. No electronics used. Timbo's is all mechanical!

I've got enough problem now with the next 4 to 5 month trying to keep the transmission warm. Pretty soon I'll be in subzero temperature most of the day. The last thing I want to do is have FASS coolers hanging off the transmission and lame filter with super thick gear oil. Even with my 250-mile trip, I'm lucky the last few days I might see 100-120*F maybe. I seriously doubt if I had the FASS coolers and that filter it could even push fluid through the filter.

I don't know how? ABS module is what sends the speedometer and odometer signals. ABS module is what tells the grid heater to turn off after 20 MPH. ABS module is what tells the PCM speeds for the automatic transmission and cruise control. I know some of this for sure because of the fact when I sent my ABS module in to be rebuilt these are things that failed to function.

I'm not sure if the 3rd Gen APPS will even work or if it has the same two validation switches or what inside. 3 pins are the rheostat so +5V, signal and signal GND. The there is IVS (idle), IVS (throttle) and GND. I've got no idea what's in the 3rd Gen APPS.

There is a member (Cowboy) that manage to make a spin on filter for his transmission. I just don't see it as an efficient means of filtering oil being there is no true pumping of oil just kind of paddle wheeling oil with the gear teeth. New Venture didn't think filtering oil was a big problem or need. As for my NV4500 has a magnet on the PTO cover than that has worked for 356k miles and rolling.

Personally, I don't see the need for it. Being even after better than 1/4 of million miles I never had any debris in the case even after breaking the mainshaft. All you need is a magnet on the cover plate and it will capture all the metal. Being everything is ferrous metals and magnetic. Clean the magnet and reload with oil.

Thank you @IBMobile I knew I've seen it before. I'm planning on doing the very same thing as you and putting the oil pressure in that extra pod position. By chance do you remember where you bought the pod at or part number for it?

Don't need an entire engine just a spark plug.

1/4 of million miles...