Mopar1973Man

Quadzilla can adjust timing but at idling and startup, ECM is in direct control. Quadzilla doesn't come online till past 1,000 RPM and some sort of APPS signal change. At idle the ECM is in control. The problem I'm seeing as cetane rises the ignition quality rises as well so less timing is needed with winterized diesel fuel. The summer fuel when cetane falls then the timing has to be added. On diesel, they will actually create what's known as "negative torque" which is the point the diesel fuel was ignited too early on the before TDC so as the fuel is still burning it's pulling some negative torque then as it passes over TDC then the power comes out. Typically you see a slight rise to the engine load as you continue to advance. Cetane is a bigger factor than IAT temperature. Even with morning temperature now in the 10°F realm and seeing 62°F in intake temperature then running 180°F thermostat it made a very little impact to the MPG performance and all the cold air I can stuff in this beast. 19.5 MPG last trip. On a side note. My 1996 Dodge 5.9L V8 Magnum is pulling 40° of timing at about 1,600 RPM. Requires 91 octane to keep from breaking the piston rings out of it. Yeah, I've got a Mopar Performance PCM on that little beast but it now in the high 17's MPG.

The fuel I've been picking up finally went to winterized diesel and the cetane really jumped in the last few tanks. Found that you have to retard timing a wee bit to gain the edge again. A lot of people consider the air temp like I did too thinking cold air will take more timing to ignite the fuel. Actually the cetane has more weight that air temperature. Even though my morning run is at about +10°F my IAT is about 62°F. I tried advancing timing found the MPG dropped hard to 17.6 MPG. Now after retarding jumped back to 19.5 MPG. This follows the same rules that the MPG of the Mopar1973Man High Idle. Just I'm programming a tune to take advantage optimal timing. Still the MPG switch helps for during your warm up mode till the Quadzilla goes into full run mode.

My Ranchos still dampen the bounce because the oil was still there. But... The gas was long gone.

I bought a 3 ton from my local hardware store. I love this thing a single pump and the Jack makes contact.

Upgrade to Quadzilla V2 tuning and you can control fuel way better. I've got a tune for towing I can stand on the throttle never reach 1,200F on a grade.

Like @Taz just replaced his front factory shocks that were shot. Then he went to a KYB Gas A Just and I liked how it rode. Still fairly firm ride but not overly bouncy ride. Being I came from Rancho shock were pretty good and served well for 200k miles. I've got to say I like @Stormin08 suggestions too.

Holy chit man! I'm driving the wheels off this beast trying to catch up with you an extra 100k miles ahead of me. With me driving out to Brogan, OR doing fuel solenoid on a 97 Dodge and then find out it doesn't work. So another trip with my test light to find out the solenoid is bad. So now waiting for the new solenoid and then install it for the guy. I'm still averaging 100 miles minimum per day. Max of about 350 miles per day. Saddle getting rather worn out.

I was right around $250 for my KYB Gas A Just Shocks from NAPA.

That's why it hard to base a maintenance requirement for something and figure life expectancy of a part when the truck sits and idles. Like mine, I've got to warm up some in the cold morning before leaving. MoparMom will beat the trash out of me if I dump her in a cold cab and tell her to wait for the truck to warm up. Then with winter coming there might be day where I want to just sit on the truck and work while I'm waiting for her treatment I'm not going to sit there and freeze to death I'll leave the truck run and continue working the website. So like when my odometer tracked the AirDog pump for 250k miles when the pump bearings failed. That's miles but I can't count all the thousands of hours of idling. Heck, I remember plenty of times being out on vehicle accidents and leaving my truck running to keep emergency lights running and place to get warm on a near zero night. Some might claim that life expectancy of the AirDog was low and doesn't meet the lifespan. I know there is a ton of idle time on my engine.

Just installed a set of KYB shock on my truck and love them. My Rancho's last quite a while still had oil in them but the gas charge was gone.

I'll just keep my trap shut...

Tim called again today... He's looking for more things if possible come on gang help out a fellow forum member make it through his time. Tool catalogs LMC Truck Ford old body style LMC Truck Dakota (2nd Gen) Few websites he mentioned.. https://www.summitracing.com http://www.advancedplating.com/ http://www.thermotech.com/ https://www.woodwardfab.com/ https://www.koolmat.com/ http://designengineering.com/ Come on guy jump in and get him some catalogs and reading material. He's asking still please help him out.

Carbon syncro's require a Synthetic GL-4 lubricant. WARNING: GL-5 lubricants will damage carbon fiber syncro's. I can't speak for engine oils or ATF+4 for a transmission lubricant. Might be too thin for good protection. Like during my rebuild on my transmission the 5th gear itself was worn and required replacement. The hard facing was gone. I ran strictly the 75w-85 Mopar Fluid and it failed to protect. Which is the same values of 15w-40 engine oil. When I reach 362k miles will be 100k miles on this transmission with 50 WT. Take me 8 more trips to Ontario, OR and I'll have 100k miles. My morning temperatures are dropping in the teens through New Meadows and Tamarack Mill. Very cold and the transmission temp is not even moving the transmission temp gauge off 100*F at all. I need at least 50*F outside temperature to even reach 110*F transmission temperature. Here before long, I'll be down in the -20*F realm for winter time.

This is why you can't judge the 50 WT transmission fluid as a cause being you've added more rotational mass in your clutch. Then blame the fluid. Very very common. Now if you had a single disc clutch you would see the very same thing I do with good shift quality. Way too many time people claim they changed fluids attempting to resolve a shift problem beforehand and then the problem worsens after the fluid change and the blame is tossed on the fluid instantly. When in fact the majority of the time the shift problem is a pre-existing clutch issue or pilot bearing issues. Personally, I think the 50 WT will provide better protection overall being the lubricant is much thicker and withstands temperature better than a thinner grade of lubricant that would get too thin in heavy towing or high summer heat. Being 50 WT transmission fluid is designed around the Eaton Fuller transmissions and hauling 80,000-pound loads. It should be a piece of cake for the 50 WT to do its job for a mere 8,000-pound truck.

Thank you in return for the wonderful message!

Dual disc clutch tend to have more rotational mass and the syncro's can't slow down the input shaft fast enough because of the rotational mass of the dual disc. What you doing with double clutching is giving the discs enough time to slow down and syncro's can do there job now.

A stupid and crazy idea... @Quadzilla Power ... I wonder if its possible to change over the Quadzilla communication to USB for a cellphone. That would be killer option too. Being my LG G5 cellphone already has Type C USB and just change up the app to communicate over the USB instead of the bluetooth. The killer part is the USB cable could supply power to the cellphone.

Might not be worn out but pop pressure to low and getting inefficient.

Like im going to be next on injectors. My DAP 7x0.0085 are getting a bit dirty, haze, and faint misfire. I've got close to 100k on them.

When I did my wheel joint the passenger side I beat on for four hour using heat, PBlaster, and more beating. Driver side I could even start one cap. This shaft required a press which was extremely violent when the caps let go. There was no amount of hammer to free the driver side. Hence why I don't want super life span again by that time of 16 years and 350k miles the caps will be bound up again.

Yeah, I might have gotten 350k miles from my factory OEM joints. Still, the fact remains it was a horrid nightmare to get those joint out and replaced. I would much rather have a joint that is not going to last very long and replacement and greasing much easier. So what if I got to change u-joints every 100k miles much better than beating on stuff for over 4 hours with 6 pound hammer. A lot of people like the seal units. With all the flood highway and snow I travel its just not a good idea. Now that Idaho is using strictly all salt its making suspension part fail sooner. Causing issues on replacing simple things like u-joint a royal beach.

Those could of last much longer if there was a grease zerk and able to flush the old debris out and keep them lubed.

I did get an email back from him.

I've been enjoying the 245's. way more power on the highway I can accelerate much faster now. Still the MPG is not changed much. Still drifting around the 19 MPG with winter fuel now in full swing. The higher final ratio really does make a huge difference in acceleration. I like the fact I can remain in 5th much longer now. I'm in my top gear sooner.

Need measurements. I've got plenty of scrap metal and a grinder.