Mopar1973Man

I've changed up complete since this start of this thread. Warm up Mode temperature - 170°F Installed thermostat - 180°F High idle delay - 15 seconds Some might not think this optimal setting but allow high idle to kick back in after a shortstop somewhere in cold weather. Like my current travels going back and forth to Ontario, OR I typically stop in Weiser, ID for breakfast those days. Be there for about 45 minutes and when I come back out to fire up the engine is still plenty warm yet. But the warm-up mode kicks in and high idle engages while I wait for MoparMom to come to the truck. I'm waiting for serious cold weather to drop in and see if the high idle will restart if the coolant falls below the set temperature. This would be optimal for us that are in the extreme cold weather be able to gain the coolant temperature if it happens to fall below you set point and then cancel after rising above the set point again. This would actually save fuel.

Just for information purpose, I've updated my tuning guide more.

Smoke issues and fueling issues are based on the injector pop pressure. Edge Juice is designed around strictly stock injectors very hard to clean up big injectors on Edge tuner. I ran the Edge Comp for years a +50HP was too big to clean up properly.

Mine is a True Pyrometer flue temp not just pipe temp.

Yeah typical winters for me have my truck in lots of flooded highways and lots of slush. At least now every oil change I can lube all these now.

I'm wanting to replace my Kenwood soon. I've got a wonderful MP3 player but I'd like to have Bluetooth.

I went with NAPA wheel joints. NAPA wheel joints are greaseable. My problem was the bearing caps where rust to the shafts. Driver side required better that 20 ton press to get the cap to even move. Passenger side took me over 4 hour of beating with hammer and MAP torch to get the passenger side apart. I'd rather have them fail before 100k that fight to get 350k wheel joints to even move with 4 hours of swing 6 pound hammer.

No longer made. As far as u know there is no new ECM available. Just like VP44 only rebuilt units.

Mine only creosote the last 2 foot of chimney just above the roof. Even with chimney temps above 1,400 at 12 inches above the stove the chimney top is just too cold to even bother creosote. I've got 6 inch pipe stainless as a liner in the brick chimney.

Reason why... 2002 and older is a Sagnaw steering box which is designed for power steering fluid and don't forget the hydrobooster. All the seals are designed for power steering fluid. 2003 and newer is a FORD steering box. Yes, it's a Ford Motor Company steering box and pump hence why the change over to ATF after 2003.

I humbly bow out...

P0576 is cruise control voltage low error. This has something to do with steering wheel control if I'm not mistaken. You can unplug the PCM and see if the truck starts. Only need the ECM for the engine to run.

1st Gen no listing of any fuse or fusible link... Dodge Factory Service Manual. 2nd Gen... Clearly shows the fuse... As for 3rd gen and up I'll have to EAT MY WORDS... There is a fusible link but it in the loom somewhere.

So now search back on the internet and you find no such thing has ever happened. The diode will burn out like a fuse and that the end of it. The circuit is now open.

@W-T got me thinking about the whole thing too. When you check back on the Dodge Ram truck history. 1st Gen 89 to 93 - No alternator fuse. 2nd Gen 94 to 02 - 140 Amp Alternator Fuse in PDC 3rd Gen 03 to 07 - No alternator fuse. 4th Gen 07 to 18 - No alternator fuse. 5th Gen coming out in 2019. Most likely won't have an alternator fuse either. You should see mine I still got all the OEM cables yet and excellent condition and never corroded once!

Correct. The heavy cable has way less voltage loss in the travel. This why the charge lead needs to be as short as possible. I cut off over 4 foot of cable and down to a mere foot or so of cable to the battery. A huge reduction in voltage loss in the run across the front of the engine back to the PDC.

Mine just past 360k miles and started a coolant leak at the top corner.

Same with mine. Dead silent operation.

Bingo. The Injection pump automatically raises pressure as you throttle up. Now if the injector pop pressure is too low then the fuel mist is much larger droplets and then it tends to smoke more than burn because there isn't enough time to heat the large fuel droplets to go BANG! So when you raise the pop pressure back up the 310 to 320 bar realm the droplets are much smaller and all the fuel is burnt like its meant too and the smoke is minimized.

Just like my AD 150 replacement has been rock solid. No issues with the pump I still need to fix my regulator spring which I might jump into this weekend.

Here is the timing kit by DAP... https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-cummins-timing-kit-9498ctk

Make sure not to get any gasket debris in the oil ports. A tip gave to me by another member!

Ugh. That wiretap most like is a weak fuel solenoid connection. I would pull the VP44 off so you have good access and solder and shrink tube the wire back together. Those scotch locks need to be tossed in the trash. I hate those darn things. Stealth plate is the best option.

Too much voltage loss not required.

Fuse does nothing after the mod. Unused. Only 2nd Gen trucks have a alternator fuse. Then 3rd gen trucks dropped the fuse idea.