Mopar1973Man

My straw is NOT in the basket. I don't want to draw in that hot fuel. I get cooled fuel from the tank.

Yeap. Take that entire lead out shorten it like @IBMobile shows. Same with the ground.

I would verify with a mechanical oil pressure gauge to be sure. If its truly this low your looking at rebuilding the bottom end for sure.

Not like your wrong... JAG1 it that there is many different cases where fuel leaks will or will not cause hard starting like mine is a case of it not creating hard starts but I create a visible drip spot on the ground.

I'm hoping the analog gauge is fixed in the new screen where its a nice uniformed +10 or +100 tick mark set up. Not this willy-nilly random span that is like the Dodge Tach that you have to do a bunch of hand math in your head to find out it some strange range number between tick marks. Take a hint from ISSPro and the EV2 series gauges.

To go lower you'll need to change springs. You can order fuel pressure springs from DAP for both AirDog and FASS. You'll want a 17 PSI spring. Mine I did the same thing and curled the end coil inwards and somehow made a high spot and the ball keeps rolling to the wall and hanging open and allowing the fuel pressure to fall randomly. This is something I need to fix this weekend as well. Try and tweak that tail back down just a weebit.

Not to say @JAG1 is wrong... Like on my truck I've got a visible trail of fuel from about #5 or #4 injector line all the way off the back of the engine and dripping on the ground. What I need to do is shoot the area with brake clean while its hot and get it good and dry and do a quick WOT run and check again looking for which one is leaking fuel. In my case, this is not causing a hard start at all but the fuel trail is present and visible. Just got to isolate the source and fix the leak.

Regardless off all that. The ground need to separated from charge wire. Charge wire will be shorten to go to the passenger battery. Master ground need to remove and shorten so it connects at gear case.

Like the HE351 with 9cm2 housing light up quicker even. But also limits how far it can go...

Technically... The is no reason to really worry about the friction disc being lubricated. If you figure 99.9% the pressure plate is clamped down on the friction disk and its not going to move anywhere. Then when you press the clutch pedal to release the disc isn't going to move a whole bunch. Just the room between the flywheel and the open pressure plate. Why would it move very far? Now the throwout bearing that moves quite a stroke on the sliding collar pressing the pressure plate release fingers. I can see the throwout bearing sleeve being greased. Like mine supplied from South Bend Clutch it was already to go just install. Grease was already supplied.

Yes that what I'm talking about there that throwout bearing has grease in the inside of the part that rides on the sleeve. Mine was already packed and ready. Slide it on and it automagically greased the sleeve for me.

Throwout bearing should already be greased when you get it. Like my Southbend throwout bearing was already packed with grease. Just clean the sleeve it rights on and slide on the new throwout bearing.

Interesting to say the least...

Like the guys with big tires are struggling with EGT control because the final ratio to the ground is too low. I'm the reverse of this I've got high final ratio to the ground and zero EGT's issues at all. I can tow my RV up 7% grade with the Quadzilla on Level 3 (Wiretap disabled) and hold it to the floor and never reach 1,200*F. Even empty truck running with full wiretap it takes quite a bit for EGT's to rise for me. My Average 55 MPH EGT is 475*F and then 550*F for 65 MPH. Trying to fix high EGT problems caused by an excessive low final ratio with upgrading turbos is not the right way. If you want to run large tire then re-gear the axle properly so your final ratio is back to 3.55 realm. This is why my final ratio 3.69:1 is screaming fast acceleration and EGT's are not even a problem, still can outrun a factory 4th Gen no problem. 12cm2 is perfect sized housing. Yes, tires do impact what turbo to get. +75HP injectors (7x0.0085) HX35/40 hybrid (60/60/12) Quadzilla Adrenaline 3.55 gears with 245/75 R16 tires (30-inch)

Possible Causes DTC Equal To Freeze Frame High Resistance In Ground Circuit CMP Sensor Signal Circuit High Resistance CMP Sensor Signal Shorted To Ground 5-volt Supply Circuit High Resistance CMP Sensor 5-volt Supply Circuit Shorted To Ground Intermittent Wiring Harness ECM

Then any grease that is slung off the shaft will most likely land on the friction disc. I brake clean the input shaft that's all.

How much bandwidth does the display require? Being as type C cable get longer the signal gets slower. Either the bandwidth is really small or there is going to be a maximum length allowed...

Finally, that looks like a fair sized display bigger than all the other tuners I have played with. It looks to use USB Type C connector.

Like I'm at +75HP injectors with a 60/60/12 HX35/40 hybrid. Good balance of spool and keeping the EGT's in check. I would lean on the 62 as well with 12cm2 housing...

No. You remove the ground completely and ground the ECM directly to the gear case. Then the alternator charge lead is moved to the passenger battery. Nothing like What you have which the charge lead and master ground run together.

Glow shift gauges are cheap quality... Time to upgrade to quality gauges. Wandering needles is most likely a bad gauge, bad ground wiring, bad power wiring, etc.

Headlight ground is in the driver side kick panel inside the cab.

Yes, until it reaches the S105 splice. The wiring is backwards on our trucks the common on the bulb is +12V the hi beam and low beam leg are controlled by grounds.

No. There is two different grounds the hi beam leg and the lo beam leg from the dimmer switch. The ground leaves there heads to the headlight switch and ties in at the drive side kick panel inside the cab. The fact that the headlights come on just proves there is ground. But the ground for the hi beam leg might be damaged from the splice forward or the actual headlight socket.

I would not suggest hacking wiring right away. First test if you got the ground signal there first. Double check the headlight socket for melting or bad contacts first. Really suck to hack up the wiring and that wasn't the problem.