Mopar1973Man

You might have to get a OBDII tool that can report the ABS wheel speeds. Then monitor the wheel speeds while you drive then whichever wheel is dropping to zero could be a bad sensor or bad hub. Like mine the bearing was fine but the tone ring broke loose.

Kind of like myself I've got a front end clunk and a bad wheel joint. I still got to fix those things too. Just finished the head gasket and now got keep fixing stuff. Like I could of invested the money I spent on LED's towards control arms. But I didn't I look at other angles like comfort and safety. Yeah, safety takes the top of the list but front end clunk has possed any safety issues as of yet. Wheel joint I'm just being lazy because I know its another adventure of 4 hours of beating on that joint with a 6-pound hammer. Ugh...

I'm going to be in the freeze for the rest of the season. (low of 19*F now).

I would try a run also in the summer of straight 50 SAE and then let the cool weather come on and see how it reacts.

Fix the failed speed sensor or bad tone ring. Every time you turn the key off your resetting the light. If the problem still exist then the light is turned on. Typically a bad speed sensor or failed tone ring like my last failure was.

This is why I love the Quadzilla because you can make up this timing basis with injectors or weak VP44. Like my truck seems to really like high timing. I'm bumping the timing up a bit more and watching the fuel logs.

No. Because the lift pump is not hooked up to the ECM for power supply this is only going to happen with DDRP pumps. The current load is at the PDC power stud. Just with the ground wire mod and what I can measure for AC noise its so low now it's not even a worry to me. For W-T he's a ham radio operator so the RF noise he's chasing makes a difference in radio performance. He does have a wod for the pump motor to filter that out if it that big of a problem but 99% f us are just daily driver and not using Ham Radios while we drive.

I hate to say it but lubricants change and I've already proved that 50 SAE is safe to use these transmissions for sure. Time to let go of the old school scare of transmission fluids and specs. Being that there is now a member here running 15w-40 engine oil in his NV5600 and this Facebook transmission builder running 50 SAE in their transmissions. I wonder how much fact is in that. They (internet) claimed that synchros would be destroyed in the NV4500 if you didn't run the Castrol Syntorq and poor shift would occur. (Yeah I was caught up in that scare for YEARS! No more!) I can say FACT: that is not true. I've got 6k miles left to 100k miles and shift quality has been perfect. No synchro problems and shift quality is awesome even at -40*F weather. I MUST drive every TTS (Tues, Thurs, Sat) and weather and temperature have had zero impact on shift quality. Currently, the weather is cold enough now I don't even see the trans temp needle move off 100*F all day. I'm NOT using FASS coolers so the trans keeps warm better in winter weather.

Yeah. I'm using @Chris O. CCD network tool and GPS is right on the nail with the speedometer.

No revs/mile. So 245/70 R19.5 is 611 revs/mile.

I've been down to -40*F and zero shift problems. It straight weight 50 lube so it thins down good. Also, all 50 SAE is Synthetic GL-4 fluid so it going to have the good flow characteristics of synthetic. Coming up on 100k miles of service as well. All my specs are in my garage... https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/?show=tab_2

The only thing I can say is have the Quadzilla checked out. Really the Quadzilla should not be able to prevent starting. It only hooks up to the CANBus, VP44 wiretap, and the MAP sensor. Unless it was fouling the wiretap some how.

I've been known to use PB Blaster silicone spray.

Thank you @Towrigdually I knew at the end of the day the 50 SAE transmission fluid could be used in an NV5600 transmission. All this scare of specifications and GL-4 or MT-1 spec is nothing. Still in all its got steel gears, with carbon fiber synchros, and bearings. The synchros require GL-4 fluid for sure. Being that the 50 SAE is rated for industrial trucks I'm sure it would hold up just fine for our light duty transmissions. Both NV4500 and Nv5600 transmission. Even in a previous post, I've asked my rebuilder and (Abe @ Weller Truck, Boise) said 50 SAE can be used in NV5600 as well with no harm.

Bingo... What is the only material that sulphuric acid cannot eat? Plastic and glass. What is plastic made from? Oil. So if you keep even a light coating of engine oil on your terminals they will never corrode. As you can see from my pictures it doesn't take much. Lot better that globs of grease or the spray red terminal junk that stains your clothing and PITA to wash off you.

Never had a corroded terminal to this day. None of my batteries have ever needed the terminals cleaned. I've never changed or repaired a battery cable. I'm one of the Dodge Cummins owners with OEM battery cable in perfect condition. Don't need the high price AGM for clean terminals and battery tops. These battery cables are 16 years old still look awesome! These cables are over 20 years old and never been cleaned either. Lead acid deep cycle batteries...

Like @Me78569 would say if you have to use limits to keep everything in check then you are doing something wrong. Either gear ratio is wrong or too much fuel is being used. This is where the Edge Juice comes up short and allowing better fuel management and any timing management. Surprising what proper timing can do for controlling EGT's too. As for tires, you'll never get to use the full 3,750 capacity anyways. As GVWR 8,800 you axle weight front is only 2,600 for GAWR 5,200 and rear is 3,042 for GAWR 6,084. Unless you intentionally overloading the truck which 3,750 would allow 15,000 pounds if the truck could handle it.

One time fee for the $4 price. What I did was bought the app and then at home I used the web browser and logged on. Then proceeded to jack in all the data I've got for the last 2 years for the 2002 Dodge and 3 years for the 1996 Dodge. This make it so much easier for tuning now. I can alter my tune just a little run 2 laps to Ontario, OR and the check my data on Simply Auto see if the tweak worked or not. On the 1996 Dodge all my changes including tires from 235's to 215's, thermostat from 190*F to 180*F and oil change from 10w-30 to 5w-30 has netted me a total gain of nearly +4 MPG. Nearly capable of hitting 18 MPG on that truck now. Old records showing 13 to 14 MPG on average. Cost per mile has dropped to 20 and 21 cents a mile. Like on the 2002 after the head gasket my MPG dropped hard to 17 and 18 MPG I had to change up my timing curve and now I smacked two trips at 20 MPG. Now I'm tweaking lightly for another 0.5 Degrees to see if it climbs just a bit more.

Garage door opener there two tab push them forward. Lightly pull down. It should slide back releasing the entire console from the roof. The bulb are removed by 4 Phillips screws.

All the electrical. Switch, bulb socket and the bulb lends. Looks like you need the entire overhead console replacement.

So very true... Yeah, I've got one in my truck. Never had to use it but its there just in case. Same here. I've never had exactly what I needed to get rolling again. No, I'm not going to haul another truck on a trailer as insurance or haul tons of tools and parts. So very true. Not my first time camping out in the woods with a dead vehicle. I learned my lesson long ago. Back with my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon. A friend and I decided to go out for afternoon ride looking for firewood. When we got out on Smokey Boulder Road we seen where everyone drove around the tip of this fallen tree. I followed the same track and down the truck sank in the mud. I lock in my hubs and was hooked on a log. No jack. No tools. No food. No water. Then made the poor choice of trying to dig the truck out by hand. Needless to say it was over 8 hours later in the dark we managed to get the truck unstuck. No matches to get fire lit. No clothes to stay warmer. No gloves to protect my hands. The interior of the truck was covered in mud every where. Ended up damaging a hub fighting to free the truck and chewed up the tires with all the tire spin. (Young and dumb). Now looking back I should of abandon the truck and started walking out. If I had my rescue bag I've got now I could have easily walked two people out with water and food and got to safety and got help to get my truck out of the mud. Now I don't even fight it anymore. I grab the bag and lock the doors and leave the truck behind. If it is broke down no one can steal the truck. Now you just got to go get help so the truck can be recovered.

Yeah, but it will run hot. Change the tires out and get the gear ratio down to 3.73 and it will tow like a crazy mule without getting hot. Your tire size will make your final ratio 3.42:1 which is too tall for towing. This will drive the EGT's up in top gear regardless. To keep the tires you would have to change your axle gears to 3.73 to just to bring you back 3.55 gearing. 4.10 gear would get you back to 3.73 final ratio. I've got DAP 7 x 0.0085 injectors (75 HP), HX 35/40 (60/60/12), and the Quadzilla Adrenaline with 245/75 R16 tires. With a final gear ratio of 3.69:1. I can stand on the throttle on 6% grade and never reach 1,200*F with my current tune on level 3.

I'll give you all a clue. Most all failures give clues in performance like MPG record dropping out. Like my VP44 was dropping MPG well before the pump died. Most other failures show up as heat. EGT's higher than normal, coolant temperature higher than normal or transmission temperature higher than normal.

Another good example I was heading out to get firewood for the day with a friend and took the 1996 Dodge 1500. Got back up in the Nezperce Forest about 15 miles from town and the truck simply just died. I had tools with me again a socket set. After all my simple testing looking for fuel in the injector rail, and spark at the spark plugs I realize my PCM was fried. Not a single thing I could do but turn the truck around which we did. We managed to get the truck turn around and got a free downhill ride which put us near a ranch house to make a phone call and get a tow truck to pick up. Again there wasn't a single thing my socket set could of fixed. I needed a PCM... So I had the tools to pull the old one off but that would of been a week to wait for the new one to come. Better off towing to safety.