Mopar1973Man

I hate to disagree... But there is no proof in this statement. Like my truck, the head has been in service for 355k miles and when it was pulled off there was zero sludge or debris in the head just oil. So when the head was stood on it side for the entire night to drain the head was spotless. My truck has use petroleum oils since the beginning of time. Again no debris, sludge, etc. As I said there is no proof in this statement. (Other than the bits of valve seals) So how do you clean something that is already clean for 355k miles? Again when I pull the tappet cover a year ago there was no sludge or debris found.

Fuel pressure is too low for sure. 14 to 20 PSI at all times. I've got to ask the same question any error codes too? Then I've got to ask if there is any excessive AC noise that could be fouling the ECM up too. Might want to just have the alternator test for safety sake.

I've got to ask @AH64ID. Could you recheck the 24V stock filter again for rating supposedly they dropped to 7um filter now for the 98.5 to 02 trucks?

Maybe @dripley got me pulled side ways... Sorry about that... Yeah, you only need to just tighten the nuts after priming the system.

At least it's not a head gasket that would be a serious PITA. The head alone feel like a ton and difficult to handle even with two able body men or engine hoist and two men. Either way it not fun. Coolant lifespan is highly exaggerated. All these claims of 5 years and 100k miles. You better be changing coolant well before that. The problem is the coolant goes corrosive and starts eating metal and that is what causes the scale build up is the oxides in the water solidifying to the core tubes and such.

Sorry I missed it on my cell phone. One of the few reasons I prefer the desktop computer. Mobile devices are fine in a pinch.

I could of saved you some money... Turn the fan belt around so the compressor spins backwards and it will blow hot air.

That's the thing you have to take the time and see what the winterized fuel is rated for and when the change over. Years ago I knew the Chevron listed the time spans that winterized diesel started and ended then also stated the temperatures it was rated for now that page is gone. Same with Cennex fuel used to have a good diesel specs page showing winterized fuel temperature range and approximate times it was in use. At least for Chevron fuel its still somewhere around -20*F yet. Even though we get to -40*F worse case in New Meadows proper. This is one of the huge reasons I kept my stock fuel filter can. I know the fuel heater isn't a huge help but the coolant jacket and the heat given by the engine to the incoming fuel as well as the heated fuel return from the rear of the head going to warm up the tank.

No. The nut at the head. The crossover tube inside. Basically, if the injectors have been installed you want the cross over tube to mate with the injector first before locking down the injector placements. You what to tight the crossover tube first to push the crossover tube into the injector causing the injector to self-center and mate with the crossover tube for a tight seal. Now you can lock the injector down with the torque on the injector hold downs. Now if you reverse this and tight the hold downs first the crossover tubes will not seal at the injector body and you'll have a high-pressure leak inside the return rail of the head.

Your problem is you always used a non-returning pump. Raptors and carters are known for those problems. No returning pumps like AirDog and FASS typically don't have this issue because the pump is no constantly deadheading. Even though the Raptor's and Carter's had a return system internal this just create cavitation issues still promoted pump wear.

I've got that problem too. Start hearing that tinny tapping of the pushrod / rocker assembly. I'm hoping to get time today and get then adjusted again since the head gasket job. Yeap. Tight valves will cause it to lope on hot idle when you release the throttle.

Upgraded torque king shaft requirement more. I've got to ask what size tires is the OP running and what gear ratio in the axles?

Actually AGM will sulphate to. They are still made with lead plates but a very limited amount of electrolyte absorbed in glass matting. Just the AGM batteries can't be equalized because the is no way to replace the lost moisture. AGM is good for light duty and slow charging as long as device loads and charging does force moisture from the cells. Yes AGM can and will vent moisture. The biggest killer is voltage like I've got doubts my batteries will make a full 10 years being I've now seen two totally dead states. I know the cells are damaged. Once a battery is under 10.5 volts at rest for any length of time the battery is damaged. Another killer is lost electrolyte if a cell has exposed plates the lead oxides fast and that section is permently damaged. This includes AGM. Like my solar / hydro batteries I put at least 1/2 to 3/4 of gallon of distilled water every month. These batteries are in service 24 hours / 7 days a week compared to @04Mach1 using part time used Ford truck that is parked mostly. In running a 24 volt system and keeping the dead state above 22.5 volts. Equalize every month when I add distilled water. No AGM battery can withstand this kind of up and down charge and discharge work out.

I bet you all forgot to change over to winter blinker fluid so the blinkers do freeze up in the winter.

I bet you'll have problems getting that pyrometer to climb to 1800 again.

Walmart 810 CCA. Same manufacture as the OEM batteries. There is only a handful of companies that make batteries. Brand name is meaningless being most common names are made from like Johnson Controls, Exide Battery, etc. Like the batteries powering my house will typically go 15 years. Yeah, I'm on a solar / hydro power system. I understand batteries really well and don't need high priced batteries or name brands.

Standard lead acid batteries. I got 10 years from my first set and I'm closing in on 10 years on this set. You can't equalize charge an AGM or sealed battery.

All you have to do is go back and edit the post. The attachments can be deleted by clicking on the trash can icon. All you have to do is go back and edit the post. The attachments can be deleted by clicking on the trash can icon.

Thanks ill make sure the numbers are posted as an article. I've got to ask what sized tires are you running? Then what gear ratio?

Find out the exact number. I want to say Weller truck told me 600 foot pounds. But I suggest double checking.

5th gear nut torque is like 520 to 660 foot pounds depending on shaft design. Like mine is the upgraded main shaft torqued to spec. If you beating that nut with a hammer you'll never reach the required torque. This is why you losing the battle. Torque it right and fix the problem.

Nope. Just the top of the sensor blew off. Replaced it and put the truck back in service. I even drove it on this year fire.

I typically just use quality winterized diesel fuel from high volume places and then switch over to a snowmobile oil which has a lower pour point than the diesel. That's all. Never used a anti-gel.

Like right now I'm down here in Ontario, OR and crime isn't horrid but it's here. I'm less worried. Now with my old Edge Comp that bothered me. I hid it under the steering column to make it go away. Hard to adjust that way.