Mopar1973Man

Not going to gain much. The only way to get true cold air is pull the head and cut the entire intake manifold off and get rid of the coolant jack in the manifold. Even with the morning temperatures at +10°F I'm still floating 60 to 62°F at the IAT. I've pulled the engine fan out and tried the factory box vs BHAF and no change. Still the same. The fact is the intercooler does an awesome job of cooling the air. It the head design that brings the warmth back. So all the intakes and mods you want to try is not going to alter that IAT read till the coolant jacket is removed.

Ummm... that easy to explain. Wider tires spread the weight out more so traction is reduced on slick surfaces. Axle weight typically in the rear axle of a 2500 series is about 2,860 pounds so about 1,430 pounds per tire. Then figure out the catch patch in square inches and then divide up the weight to amount of square inches. Wider tires tend to float more on top, great for offroad usage. This is another reason I've gone down in tire size this, in turn, makes a smaller contact patch and pushes more rubber into the road on slick days. Yeah, you have to manage the power vs. your road condition. Typically when the frost is visible I typically drop to level 3 (no wiretap) I tend to get a torque shock as the wiretap hits.

Quadzilla Adrenaline happens to be the best tuner on the market for the 24V 2nd Gen truck in my mind. Extremely easy to use and extremely easy to install. Takes just a few minutes tinkering with your custom tune and you can be out making smokefree power and increase MPG without much effort. The only thing I would bring out you might still consider gauges. Yeah, Quadzilla comes with gauges be it really quite nice to be able to go headless and keeping the security of the truck up. Anyone looking in the window won't see a tuner or a screen like Edge Juice or Smarty Touch they assume the truck is stock and move on to the next target.

Cheater...

Yeah the vacuum method works awesome if you have the rig to do that. I normal park the truck nose up slightly and remove the thermostat and go from there. When the coolant is just about to spill over then stuff the thermostat in and finish loading with coolant.

Either DAP or Vulcan Performance. Both sell Industrial Injection pumps and Dap sells also Midwest injection pump. Both companies are Bosch rebuilders for sure.

Went out and bought a Laser / IR temp gun. Measured the gearcase top to bottom after 120 miles of driving. The bottom measured out at 89*F and the top near the sensor / fill plug was 93*F. Again. Verified and running MUCH cooler than most after 120 miles of travel. VERIFIED also the fill plug is hotter than the bottom of the PTO cover by at least 5*F. Heat does rise. ISSPro EV2 gauge reports just 100*F because the temperature is deed below 100*F.

Idle MAP reading is 28.6 at idle and maxed out at 37.3 which is only 8 to 9 PSI of boost. Needs more than minus 14.7... Lol...

Umm... this is what I did back on the Edge Comp and +50 HP injectors. Before even the Quadzilla or the +75HP injectors. The 245's let out more torque than the 235's did. This is nice because of fewer chances of breaking stuff again.

Still there is no replacement for good a-pillar gauge setup! Even I tend to favor the A-pillar ISSPro gauges over the Quadzilla Gauges.

I love the sleeper mode. "Ah, just a stock truck I can whip it." Yeah right. I actually hunt for 4th Gens with lift kits and minimum of 35" inch tires. Those jacked up 3rd and 4th gen I kill for fun. No problem. Surprises everyone when the tires let go and the truck is gone. Where did it go?!?! My design is all about shedding all the excessive drag and maximize my torque value. Which I've done.

30k miles or once a year would be best. Brake fluid is hygroscopic in other words absorbs moisture from the air. As the moisture level builds in the fluid the boiling point of the brake fluid goes down. Then the other side is more moisture the more oxidation it will do inside the plumbing. Again you need to open up the system and inspect not just push the debris into the bottom of the calipers. This is why bleeding should only happen after the calipers are cleaned and the system is already empty.

Just run it. It will come out in time. Typically I leave thermostat out during the time I'm filling with coolant to ensure that majority of the air is removed. Empty heater will have its own air to add.

Between the head gasket and property taxes coming due. I'm not going to be able to replace my injectors. Then Christmas coming I might not see injectors for quite a while. MPG is sliding backward some. I wonder if it can read our goofy MAP sensor correctly? Even the Quadzilla is close but not absolute on the mark.

When the calipers are removed and the pistons removed. Now remove the seal and test fit the piston back in the caliper. The piston should drop to the bottom without being PUSHED. If the piston is hanging up then you have to lightly sand off the caked up brake fluid or just replace the pistons. Just working the piston in and out doesn't remove the debris in the bottoms of the piston cylinders which will cause them to bind again. Like seen here the piston falls to the bottom easy without the seals in place. The only time I've seen brake hoses come to play is when people run brake fluid like a lifetime time fluid. Now the fluid is BLACK and the rubber has degraded from the excessive amount of moisture in the fluid. Now this debris is typically settling in the bottom of everything and the calipers and there is no amount of bleeding going to remove that. You need to open all 4 calipers and clean and check everything.

If you would have just changed out the brake fluid that would of all needed to be done. When the brake starts to absorb water from the air it starts to oxidize in the system causing the pistons to stick. So just changing brake fluid and disassembling the calipers and cleaning them out would have done way more good. The problem is all the debris is drop in the bottom of the caliper and the bleeder screw is on top.

Drop 1 or 2 degrees on the entire base timing.

The only factor that changed for sure is the cetane of the fuel being that higher cetane is going to ignite sooner and most likely gaining cylinder pressure with the colder air mixture. Wrapping my mind around that... Being the air is in the cylinder the entire time regardless of the fuel timing. Being the fuel is injected 30° of timing that coupled with high cetane fuel that burns faster and ignites earlier I'm going to bet more on that the fuel was lighting off way sooner than usual and cylinder pressures came up. Where with lower cetane fuel of the summertime tend to lag a bit more in ignition time. Hence why like myself I saw a good drop in MPG's when the cetane finally kicked in fully and then drop the timing 2° and now gain back the MPG's. Cold air I'm at +10°F in the morning and IAT is at roughly 62°F during this time. My max is 27° of timing. Just beyond that, I just start the bucking game.

The sensor has to have distance from the snubber to allow the pulses to fade in the distance of travel. Hence why I created this write up and still to this day my ISSPro EV2 sensor is still working perfectly. A common mistake to place the sensor right on top of the snubber and then to lose the sensor shortly afterward.

Ummm... Seriously doubt that several inches comment. Being that from the bottom of the case drain plug to the bottom fill plug is only 6 inches. I've got 7 inches of oil in the case which is over the top of the sensor. There is oil over the top of the sensor even if I put the gearbox in 5th gear rough road speeds RPM (~1,800) and transfer case in neutral and check it still got oil over the sensor. I've checked this too.

Just be aware. If coolant temperature starts to rise back off and slow down. Typically coolant will start to rise if the EGT's are held above 1,100*F for long periods. I know for a fact a stock ISB engine can and will run past 1,400*F just towing at highway speeds. I learned this lesson on my first trailer towing job hauling a friends Chevy pickup back from Boise, ID over Horsebend grade. Just barely install my DiPricol Pyrometer and still no injectors or tuners yet. The EGT's could rise to 1,400*F easily towing in top gear at 60 MPH which is posted speed limit. But I had the 3.55 gears... 5th Gear (NV5600) is direct 1:1 ratio this is the gear you want to be in towing over grades if you want to play it safe.

Slightly overfilled about a pint. Just checked the fluid today and its still over the top of the sensor. Just got to lightly tip the sensor sample the oil for color and screw the sensor back in and plugin again. Putting the sensor at the bottom will get a false cooler reading since heat rises to the top. This is quote the "hot side" of the transmission which most have heat shields, exhaust blankets and such to keep the transmission cooler. Again mine is cooler from the start without any fast coolers, blankets or heat shields. Now figure that out... All I'm running is that GL-4 50 WT Mobil Transmission Fluid... @AH64ID had the same comment to and we already dealt with that problem. Like today I crawled the entire truck checking lubes and inspecting brakes and everything the last thing I want is get total covered in oil and dirt. I keep after my leaks and keep the dirt and mud rinsed off. Winter time salt does it task when you leave a ton a mud under the truck. This why I been able to hold the rusting at bay so long!

I found a scrap piece of steel strap and ground it down to fit the cigarette lighter lever it over and was stuck. After a bit of tugging on it the locks on the black ring gave up and the entire cigarette lighter socket and the lock ring came out together. My tool is permanently stuck in the cigarette lighter. Now taking a old chainsaw file slowly working the hole open I managed to just make the hole big enough to push nearly snug in. Finally a real Android Quick Charger for the truck. My LG G5 phone sees the charger shortly after powering up. This is super nice no more parasitic draws. I will add the nut here shortly. Daylight was short today and getting cold outside.

Most local part houses don't carry diesel style gauges mostly all gasoline stuff. Even with today's cars gasoline engines are now in the 40-60 PSI range with fuel injection and throttle body injection (old school). Good call... But I'll let you know the 4 ways to kill a VP44. 1. Low fuel pressure - 14 to 20 PSI is optimal. 2. poor filtration. Aim for a good 3um filter if possible or double stacking. 3. High AC noise - Bad alternator diodes will kill a VP44. 4. Poor lubricity - Bosch states fuel should be <460 HFRR all today US diesel fuel is ~520 HFRR.