Mopar1973Man

LOL. Studded tires. I always laugh at that. I had one set of studded tires once. When you need to be towed out of a flat parking lot because your studded tires cannot get traction on the ice. Time to give up the idea. Since then I've run just a good AT tire and never looked back.

Transfer case I use standard ATF+3. No need for ATF+4 price and all the friction modifier.

Wiretap isn't a controllable as the CANBus. Basically, you can set the boost pressure its starts at and relationship to TPS. As for the CANBus fuel you can control much better. I might be able to add some wiretap back now with a few tweaks. I've found a way to pull enough retard of timing to build good boost and keeping the EGT's down empty with full wiretap. Again this is way beyond what the Edge Juice can do.

Yes, I can tow up Whitebird with the Quadzilla on Level 3 and never reach 1,200F. It about proper timing and fuel management. My EGT limit is set high at 1400F and no boost limit. As for level 3 it just disables wiretap. The rest of the tune is active. Even Midvale grade and Fort Hall hill. Easy peezy.

Wanna hear strange I'm running 180F thermostat but with the amount of timing I run the coolant temp hangs at 186 to 190 on the pavement when I stop at a light it drops to 175F.

ABS module can't be deleted. Speedometer, odometer, grid heaters, transmission (auto), ECM and PCM require the ABS module. As for the AirBag module I'm not sure if that could be deleted.

The Quadzilla will make you change that head gasket for sure.

You might have to get a OBDII tool that can report the ABS wheel speeds. Then monitor the wheel speeds while you drive then whichever wheel is dropping to zero could be a bad sensor or bad hub. Like mine the bearing was fine but the tone ring broke loose.

Kind of like myself I've got a front end clunk and a bad wheel joint. I still got to fix those things too. Just finished the head gasket and now got keep fixing stuff. Like I could of invested the money I spent on LED's towards control arms. But I didn't I look at other angles like comfort and safety. Yeah, safety takes the top of the list but front end clunk has possed any safety issues as of yet. Wheel joint I'm just being lazy because I know its another adventure of 4 hours of beating on that joint with a 6-pound hammer. Ugh...

I'm going to be in the freeze for the rest of the season. (low of 19*F now).

I would try a run also in the summer of straight 50 SAE and then let the cool weather come on and see how it reacts.

Fix the failed speed sensor or bad tone ring. Every time you turn the key off your resetting the light. If the problem still exist then the light is turned on. Typically a bad speed sensor or failed tone ring like my last failure was.

This is why I love the Quadzilla because you can make up this timing basis with injectors or weak VP44. Like my truck seems to really like high timing. I'm bumping the timing up a bit more and watching the fuel logs.

No. Because the lift pump is not hooked up to the ECM for power supply this is only going to happen with DDRP pumps. The current load is at the PDC power stud. Just with the ground wire mod and what I can measure for AC noise its so low now it's not even a worry to me. For W-T he's a ham radio operator so the RF noise he's chasing makes a difference in radio performance. He does have a wod for the pump motor to filter that out if it that big of a problem but 99% f us are just daily driver and not using Ham Radios while we drive.

I hate to say it but lubricants change and I've already proved that 50 SAE is safe to use these transmissions for sure. Time to let go of the old school scare of transmission fluids and specs. Being that there is now a member here running 15w-40 engine oil in his NV5600 and this Facebook transmission builder running 50 SAE in their transmissions. I wonder how much fact is in that. They (internet) claimed that synchros would be destroyed in the NV4500 if you didn't run the Castrol Syntorq and poor shift would occur. (Yeah I was caught up in that scare for YEARS! No more!) I can say FACT: that is not true. I've got 6k miles left to 100k miles and shift quality has been perfect. No synchro problems and shift quality is awesome even at -40*F weather. I MUST drive every TTS (Tues, Thurs, Sat) and weather and temperature have had zero impact on shift quality. Currently, the weather is cold enough now I don't even see the trans temp needle move off 100*F all day. I'm NOT using FASS coolers so the trans keeps warm better in winter weather.

Yeah. I'm using @Chris O. CCD network tool and GPS is right on the nail with the speedometer.

No revs/mile. So 245/70 R19.5 is 611 revs/mile.

I've been down to -40*F and zero shift problems. It straight weight 50 lube so it thins down good. Also, all 50 SAE is Synthetic GL-4 fluid so it going to have the good flow characteristics of synthetic. Coming up on 100k miles of service as well. All my specs are in my garage... https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/?show=tab_2

The only thing I can say is have the Quadzilla checked out. Really the Quadzilla should not be able to prevent starting. It only hooks up to the CANBus, VP44 wiretap, and the MAP sensor. Unless it was fouling the wiretap some how.

I've been known to use PB Blaster silicone spray.

Thank you @Towrigdually I knew at the end of the day the 50 SAE transmission fluid could be used in an NV5600 transmission. All this scare of specifications and GL-4 or MT-1 spec is nothing. Still in all its got steel gears, with carbon fiber synchros, and bearings. The synchros require GL-4 fluid for sure. Being that the 50 SAE is rated for industrial trucks I'm sure it would hold up just fine for our light duty transmissions. Both NV4500 and Nv5600 transmission. Even in a previous post, I've asked my rebuilder and (Abe @ Weller Truck, Boise) said 50 SAE can be used in NV5600 as well with no harm.

Bingo... What is the only material that sulphuric acid cannot eat? Plastic and glass. What is plastic made from? Oil. So if you keep even a light coating of engine oil on your terminals they will never corrode. As you can see from my pictures it doesn't take much. Lot better that globs of grease or the spray red terminal junk that stains your clothing and PITA to wash off you.

Never had a corroded terminal to this day. None of my batteries have ever needed the terminals cleaned. I've never changed or repaired a battery cable. I'm one of the Dodge Cummins owners with OEM battery cable in perfect condition. Don't need the high price AGM for clean terminals and battery tops. These battery cables are 16 years old still look awesome! These cables are over 20 years old and never been cleaned either. Lead acid deep cycle batteries...

Like @Me78569 would say if you have to use limits to keep everything in check then you are doing something wrong. Either gear ratio is wrong or too much fuel is being used. This is where the Edge Juice comes up short and allowing better fuel management and any timing management. Surprising what proper timing can do for controlling EGT's too. As for tires, you'll never get to use the full 3,750 capacity anyways. As GVWR 8,800 you axle weight front is only 2,600 for GAWR 5,200 and rear is 3,042 for GAWR 6,084. Unless you intentionally overloading the truck which 3,750 would allow 15,000 pounds if the truck could handle it.

One time fee for the $4 price. What I did was bought the app and then at home I used the web browser and logged on. Then proceeded to jack in all the data I've got for the last 2 years for the 2002 Dodge and 3 years for the 1996 Dodge. This make it so much easier for tuning now. I can alter my tune just a little run 2 laps to Ontario, OR and the check my data on Simply Auto see if the tweak worked or not. On the 1996 Dodge all my changes including tires from 235's to 215's, thermostat from 190*F to 180*F and oil change from 10w-30 to 5w-30 has netted me a total gain of nearly +4 MPG. Nearly capable of hitting 18 MPG on that truck now. Old records showing 13 to 14 MPG on average. Cost per mile has dropped to 20 and 21 cents a mile. Like on the 2002 after the head gasket my MPG dropped hard to 17 and 18 MPG I had to change up my timing curve and now I smacked two trips at 20 MPG. Now I'm tweaking lightly for another 0.5 Degrees to see if it climbs just a bit more.