Mopar1973Man

I would skip the Smarty and think about the Quadzilla. Just have a dealer flash the ABS computer. With your rev/mile value. Smarty S-03 would be fine if you plan to be stock for life. It will not work if you increase injector size and you'll need to adjust timing more advanced which Smarty won't do.

Then you would freak out to the thought I've been using "creek water" and "well water" for 16 years and the cooling system is perfect condition. I've NEVER used distilled water ever in my cooling system.

What are you getting for MPG now? What tuner (if any) are using? What size injectors are you using? Well it shouldn't it should help with MPG a bit bring down the RPM vs MPH. Like I'm running 3.55 axles with 245/75 R16 tires and that gives me 3.69:1 ratio. I'm right at 66 MPH at 2,000 RPM in 5th gear. The biggest thing that is getting me in the 19 to 20 MPG range is the Quadzilla Adrenaline I'm cranked up to about 20 to 21 degree of timing between 55 to 65 MPH. Stock ECM timing is about 13 degrees which is just way too retarded.

Might be dreaming. Like 6BT engines are in the range of 17.5:1 and CR is 17.3:1 compression. Yeah the VP44 SO engines have the lowest compression in all the series. I think a big part of it is the timing. Stock ECM will retard when the IAT rises above 80*F. This makes the engine quieter. So a cold start will be audibly louder because timing is racked up to 21* on a cold start. Then high cetane fuels make this worse being we are already be blended with high cetane fuels. This is why 2 cycle oil typically reduces engine sound considerably because of the oils natural cetane reducer and member have measured a considerable drop of engine noise volume. Comes back to ASTM testing labs comment... The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to ensure maximum fuel availability."

Be aware of the spacer weakness and failure rates. The calculated gear ratio is going to be 3.82:1 to the ground. With the DRW axle its going to reduce traction because the pound square of axle weight will be spread all out and it will be extremely easy to spin the tires.

Bingo. Discharge rates have to be limited as well as charge rates to keep the venting under control with AGM batteries. Where a lead-acid has a much wider range of operation, handle larger loads for long times and discharge at quicker rates. Then lead acid can be charged much faster because moisture loss can be replenished. Your talking about a mere RV. I'm talking about a 3 bedroom, 2 bath 2 story house. Powered by a 4kw inverter for the last 20 or so years. Hydro and solar powered.

Might consider a different intake. Remember Bank intake is design for the 24V and VP44 pump, not a p-pump. You'll have to consider a different intake that is designed for the 12V p-pump engines. The curve is different to fit over the lines.

I'm assuming that you only leaking coolant and not mixing oil and coolant right? If so the gasket and seal change is rather straightforward. Remove what you have to get workspace. Next, you spin off your oil filter and unbolt the oil cooler. Replace the seal and gaskets and reassemble. Now I'll warn there is a seal under the lower radiator neck on the block as well so verify the leak source with a coolant system tester on a cold engine and follow the coolant trail back to its source. Like my last coolant leak happen to be the passenger rear corner of the head gasket. This is way more involved than a oil cooler gasket. This brings up another subject to make sure to change coolant on a regular basis. Don't rely on the 5 years and 100k miles coolants even these don't make it that far. With the Mighty Cummins requiring a large current draw to fire up the engine, the negative polarity is rushing through the coolant and charging the coolant. This will make it corrosive. Hence the gasket failure. Make sure yo flush the block out really well and reload with fresh coolant and fresh thermostat.

The only thing that is different... HO is 17.0:1 compression and the SO is 16.3:1 compression. Then the HO pump is higher pressure and less volume where the SO pump is high volume and less pressure. Injector wise I think the 235 and 245 injectors are 0.0001 of a difference of hole size. Other than that, it's the same engine...

Maybe that why I've never had kids nor been married yet.

Too bad PenzOil doesn't have all the specs too.

Nv4500

Mine was the reverse of JAG1. My old 1972 Dodge Powerwagon required monthly wheel bearing packing, old school drum brakes so long downhill grade cooked the grease really easy. The the quote auto-adjust brake were flakey at best. Then with add on of 265 tires and breaking the outer stubs and wheel joints, the bigger tire cooking the grease out more with long downhill grades. I'm glad those days are behind me. I just done my first joint at 356k miles on the passenger side and my second set of brakes are still 50% with 180k miles on the pads. Ill get better than 200k on the front brakes.

50 SAE is also GL-4 fluid.

Ok... Here you go...

Welcome back, stranger... I've got to admit you've proved they are quality products to reach 1.3 million without any serious oil related problems.

This is where I poke at the thread a bit more. How does a person like @cajflynn go 1.3 million miles on nothing more than Fleetguard filters and 15w-40 Delo and changing oil every 20k miles? Nothing special about the oil, nothing special about the filter, and nearly extending the change interval to nearly 3 times the book value?

Before, stock OE lights After, Super Bright LEDs

Now that's it true dark out those LED's are about 2 to 3 times brighter looking.

Your on the right track then.

That's one thing I don't miss. This is the very first truck without broke hub locks, messy damn bearing that needed packing all the time, broken wheel joints. When you look back in history Dodge had several 4WD drive vehicles with all the time four wheel drive and solid hubs. Typically those vehicles rare had issues. Had several friends with the "all the time 4WD" Dodge vehicles. So in 356k miles I replaced 2 sets of unit bearings not shabby. The people with big oversized tires like 35-inch and up should be in this realm being the unit bearing are not designed for big heavy oversize tires and huge offsets. This is just way too much leverage force on the unit bearing.

The LED lights came. Nothing hard to change out the three lights in the truck. The overhead console is a bit of a trick in the garage door side is the clips push them to the front. As you do that you want to pull down slightly and start pushing the entire console back. There is only 4 Phillips screws holding the light assembly in place. Make sure to lube the switch with silicone spray and check your bulb polarity before assembly by just plugging back into power quick.

If you did have 0.1 ohms and both elements are powered that would be 240 amp draw. Even at 0.1 ohm and single element at 120 amps is 25 over the mark. One element should be 95 amps which would be 0.126315789 ohms. I can't explain it but a warm element has higher ohms.

Here you go the actual washable performance oil filter for Cummins... https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-7960-hubb-reusable-oil-filter-89-18-dodge-cummins.aspx Manufactures website... https://www.hubbfilters.com/ https://www.hubbfilters.com/oil-filters/ Oh... I really like your GIF there @AH64ID ... You same reaction is the same reason I will never use a washable air filter these truck. The only thing I own with a washable filter is my Honda ATV which is the OEM air filter by Honda. VW beetle. From the 60's and 70's... Took a minute...