Mopar1973Man

No. Grid heater is outside the entire PDC system with its own fusible link on the battery terminal. Most likely you have a bad grid heater solenoid in the mix too. Hard to tell now being the truck is gone.

No. It's about the fact the blowby in his case was the block cracked.

Time to ohm test wiring. For the P1689.

Basically that is a CANBus connector that only talks to the ECM. Typically all the tune information is jacked in as a priority message which overrides the ECM information. Now if you were to be using Quadzilla you would understand more about what information is on that CANBus.

What I've been told by my rebuilder "Yes." Now as for most here will say used PenzOil Synromesh oil. Basically PenzOil technically is a GL-4 fluid but it's too thin to make the rating.

At least I could verify this one. I went through RockAuto part listing for 2000, 2001, and 2002 Dodge Ram and the only year that changed was the 2002 Dodge which is a single pin oil pressure sensor. The only thing I can assume is that the ECM is still the standard 5V signal to the sensor and the ground reference is from the block itself like the older 1970's Dodge oil pressure sensors.

@dripley mention the same thing about a TSB...

I got to say Thank You to @dripley ... He's taught me something today which I've got to pass along to all you. The 2002 Dodge Ram truck have only a 1 wire oil pressure sensor. The wiring diagram is incorrect for the 2002 trucks and does NOT have the Orange or the Black/Light Blue wires. Now looking at the 2001 and 2000 model years are 3 wire oil pressure sensors. I've even gone down to my truck and checked and sure enough only one wire the black/light grey.

Behind the fuel filter housing. There should be a large box mounted to the driver side of the block.

I'm pretty sure Vulcan has 3/8" line fittings too. You'll have to call and ask him.

Here you go... Joint Connector 2 is at the top. As you can see its a power feed. for the ECM and PCM. Double check your fuse #3 make sure its the right size. As you can see the devices in this map. Watch for the connection DOT those are connected but lines without the dot are not connected.

Vulcan Performance has Parker Push Lock Tee for fuel pressure.

You asked.

Looks like you might have to beat the case out flat on top just a bit and drill a fairly large hole for that insulator to slide down inside. If you figure it out you gotta make the article for the website article database.

Ummm... You might want to look into the plugin I use on Chrome. https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/grammarly-for-chrome/kbfnbcaeplbcioakkpcpgfkobkghlhen?hl=en

Not being able to keep the stud from shorting out. If your game and willing to gamble. you could try and modify the case to fit but I wonder if it will work out.

Not unless you have a deep groove. Even then you have to get a special seal now because the sleeve is making the crank thicker than stock. Like mine the dust lip left a groove so I just push the seal in just a fraction deeper and ran it. That might be a mild PITA. That fan shroud with the 4 studs needs to be removed to get the radiator out. Once the shroud is out then the radiator will come out fairly easily . LOL... Same on my Asus laptop too. The keys just don't feel right to me yet.

eCigarette will fit in either port for charging if its USB.

Sucking air into the system possibly? Suction lines will not leak outwards. They continue to draw air in and never show any sign of leaking. Now @JAG1 has a trick of using a shop vacuum where you hook up the hose for blowing. This should push enough air into the fuel tank to keep pushing fuel in the lines to hopefully push it out your leak. If this is not enough pressure you can use compressed air with a blowgun and a shop rag and put 1 to 2 PSI worth of pressure in the fuel tank hopefully so a second person can spot the fuel leak.

Take a can of brake clean and spray down the area with the engine hot so it evaporates fast. Now idle the engine and watch for where the fuel is coming from. I just got done with the same issues. Between the return rail at the back of the head and a few loose injection lines I was dripping off the rear of the head and running off the bellhousing. The brake clean will make it clean and dry and allow you to source out the fuel trail and where its coming from. I know its frustrating to have fuel dripping off the engine.

What do you mean off? Disconnected? Voltage wise? If voltage wise do NOT reset the voltage or attempt to adjust the sensor!

Neither did I. As far as I know there is no way to modify being you would need the other style of case. Then you be set but that means buying another alternator or finding a junker.

Could you start a support ticket and I'll handle your refund? https://mopar1973man.com/support/ I'm sorry! I didn't think there was a different style of diode pack and change of alternator setup.

The regulator is built in. Not to mention the fuel line are restrictive and not helping the problem if you still got all the OEM 6mm ID lines yet and banjo bolts.

I've hooked back up the grid heaters on my truck. Now that I've tested my alternator and done the @W-T ground wire mod. I'm going to monitor this winter and see if the alternator holds up better or not.