Mopar1973Man

Which APPS sensor did you buy? Here is for the error code.

Typically you would remove the return fitting and behind there is a spring and ball. What series of FASS do you have?

As far as removing the lower section of dash you would have to pull the entire dash out. The best I could say is pull the knee bolster and the cup holder and reach between the two as needed.

You might look at the ISPro EV2 which is electric gauge or the ISSPro EV which is mechanical. ISSPro EV2 is USB programmable and you can set the low fuel light for warning measure. The ISSPro EV you can plumb in the gauge using air brake line and never have to worry about electrical. Air brake line is rated for burst pressure of 600 PSI. Just make sure to use a snubber at the tap point and remote mount the electric sensor away from the tap point. If mechanical it automatically remote mounted away from the tap point.

Wiring is damaged or the sensor. Either way, there is no ground bias for the Edge tuner and the fuel pressure continues to display 33 PSI. Kind of like my ISSPro gauge if I unplug the wire to the sensor it will wrap the needle around till its pointing straight down which means there is no ground bias. Basically trying to show the highest pressure the needle can point to.

I'm pretty sure the wires won't reach from the cigarette light down to the power socket. I also think they are different power connections too. Looking at the 1996 Dodge I've got the power to the cigarette lighter is round socket where the power point is a double spade connector. Personally, I'm trying to get away from all the cigarette light stuff... Take a look here... https://www.amazon.com/Zeato-Charger-Waterproof-Adapter-Smartphone/dp/B0775NVN28/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1539018334&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+power++automotive

Edge tuner is built the same way our trucks are. The sensor power lead is 5V and the sense in on the same wire. This means the Juice is looking for ground bias to report fuel pressure. Since the sensor lead was damaged that means the 5V line was maxed out all the time. Hence why you see 33 PSI of fuel pressure. Just to show the same thing. Unplug the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor and turn the key on. You see the Temp Gauge rise to Max and trip the CHECK GAGE light and CHECK ENGINE lights. Again the same thing the ECT is a 5V line with the sensor looking for ground bias from the ECM. When disconnected the gauge goes to max. So I'm sure you wonder about the low volt code... That when the sensor is ground out now the gauge would be reverse. Same with the fuel pressure gauge on the Edge but there is no code for that just a gauge stuck at ZERO.

Like my band-aid solution is the alternator problem is having a Quadzilla Adrenaline tuner or my High Idle Kit. With a Quadzilla set the high idle for 15-seconds delay. This way the engine has enough time ot get oil pumping then the Quadzilla kicks the idle up to 1,200 RPM's giving the alternator enough speed to cool itself as well as charge the batteries. My high idle kit does the same thing but longer delay about 60-120 seconds delay and then amps up to 1,200 RPM. Just I provide a 3 cylinder mode for fast warm up. Either way the alternator is not trying to charge with true 800 RPM idle speeds and it's more like slow road speed.

Can you post pictures of the burnt unit so I can possibly figure out what subsystem caused the issue?

That is true. When you start the engine the grid heater will cycle on and off for set time or till the vehicle reaches 20-25 MPH then the ECM disables the grid heater this is a reason I do not suggest just starting and leaving the engine to idle on a cold start. Now the batteries are depleted from the morning cold start and powering the grid heaters. Now you going to leave the truck idling with the grid heater still banging away on the alternator at idle speed of 800 RPM where the diodes take a huge beating because there is no airflow from the alternator fan, not enough RPM's for purpose charging and the diodes eventually overheat and fail. Yeah, it will fix the problem. The surge is caused by excessive AC noise and it fouls the tach signal to the ECM and PCM. Yeah, sad to say it a fail for sure.

Replace the entire bar. The factory style bar is a vulcanized rubber insert that isn't designed for replacement.

If everything is still factory height then it should be the same even 16 years later. Like my truck, no lift or leveling kit, so factory size track bar should be the same years later. The axle center should be still the same. Your comment holds true if the is leveling kit or lift kit added. Then the geometry of the axle is way different and would require adjustment. Because as you push the axle down the track bar becomes too short and needs to be extended.

Should be capped. If your just a 2WD truck then you should have a cap on the tee and nothing there.

Funny part I've seen guys with RV275 injectors running twin turbos.

I would have to say the sensor is blown. Most likely tapped in right at the VP44 which usually kills the sensor in a short order. Like my fuel pressure sensor is 5 feet away and the snubber is at the tap point so by the time you travel the last 5 feet to the sensor the water hammer pulses are nill.

If the belt is off and screeching noise is still there then its crank related between the engine and the transmission depending on where the noise is coming from. If the turbo has no signs of rubbing then you are going have to dig in and look at what left and isolate the noise down its source. The only other educated guess I have is possibly you have compression whistling through the gasket? Are you sure you torqued the studs down? Intake gasket blowing air? Just trying to think of all the ways to create a screeching sound possibly.

Not anymore. I can't remember but I remember I bought cheapy ball joints and they are still going. The uppers are greaseable and the lowers are sealed.

The only thing I could think of inspect the turbo. Is the compressor wheel making contact with the housing?

Whew! I thought you ditched it outright... Still in all a good power washing would help that beast. Just remember to put the fuel filter back on and bolt it down.

Ground connection should be short as possible and kept away from the positive power lead. There is also no need to run ground all the way back to the battery.

Now that I've driven this truck for thousand miles already I noticed something else since the head work. My oil leaks have stopped. I had a weeping oil leak at the gearcase gasket between the block and the gearcase and it stopped. I use to have excessive slobber from the crankcase vent. Use to use about 2 quarts of oil in 7k miles. Now that has all stopped. The oil level seems to remain full and cleaner longer now.

Master ground... Black/Tan wire. This wire runs along with the alternator charge lead across the front of the engine and to the passenger battery post. There is NO OTHER GROUNDS to worry about. I see people tearing apart entire engine bay chasing grounds. Just make sure the passenger battery terminal is clean and tight. Or... Do the W-T ground wire mod... Now all the ECM, PCM and VP44 are grounded to the case and long ways from the alternator noise of the charge line.

When the ECM boots up and first up that normal to see that 1 to 2-second burst from the pump. I see at least you do have a protection relay and fuse setup so you have to have either FASS or AirDog. Still your pressure swing is too wide you need to look over the plumbing. Another thing I forgot about is when was the last filter change? This might impact the pressures too. Do you have the Adjustable pressure regulator or the old school ball and spring?

Might want to take a peek... He's even got his own forum. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/173-dynamic-transmissions/

That happened to us back in the early 90's here in Idaho. We moved into the house and had a freak heavy winter and snap went a tree while MoparMom was sweeping the deck off. She was backpedaling to get around the other side of the house. The tree clipped the roof and land on the deck busting it all up and pulling the main power line off the house. Since then we've logged out around the house removing all trees that could be hazardous if they broke or fell. Trees are nice to shade the RV and areas of the property but that freak microburst, windstorm, or winter storm can change the dynamic of a healthy looking tree very quickly. Sorry to see that kind of damage done... At least you do have full coverage and hopefully, the RV just gets replaced.