Mopar1973Man

OEM injectors should be set to 310 bar.

Thank you @Marcus2000monster... Awesome truck. Your giving me a reason to jump back into doing youtube videos again. Ill try to get a video of my truck.

Yes you can run the Quadzilla without damaging your pump. I ran Edge Comp for ten years and now the Quadzilla now. My last pump ran till 243k miles. 4 ways to kill a VP44.. 1. Low fuel pressure. 2. Poor filtration. 3. Excessive AC noise. 4. Poor publicity.

This is the old Carter pumps.

Yes, the input shaft is actually two pieces. The outer part is your steering and the inner part is the torsional spring for the power valve. As you turn one way or another the center torsional spring what controls the power valve. There is a pin at the top of the outer shaft that holds the inner shaft in. Then there is a o-ring inside the shaft too. Yeah, I've had a good long chat with Ryan @Blue-Top Steering I know many secrets to these steering boxes.

Exactly my point.

I've got to ask what in the world else was added to that ground in that manner? Where do the wires go to? Good question where is this ground connection at?

Strange part I've learned a long time ago... "Don't chase name brands." If you find something that works use it. It doesn't mean it will be there in the future. You never know what company might be bought out by another and then quality falls off again. Like everyone chasing Moog and they got bought out and quality fell off too. Just buy something that is going to work and go for it. So far we know that Spicer and Moog are no-no's.

I took my truck out for a ride and beat the trash out of it and still the lights and mirrors work. I guess I'll just have to wait again till they quit and maybe find the loose connection. It was wild how only 2 things on that one branch of the circuit would not function but the other two would work.

After having to dig through my truck attempting to fix the dome light and the power mirrors. I noticed the light socket was rather burned not melted but that darker burn mark from the heat of the old-school bulbs. I went out to superbrightleds.com and ordered me a new dome light blub and a pair of map light bulbs being winter is coming, daylight saving time will go away and it will be dark in the cab for morning and evening travel. It would be nice to have a bit more light and without burning up the sockets. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/921-led-bulb-15-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/910/11267/ https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/206/6774/ Let's see how these work out. They should be here by about the 20th of the month.

Nope both mobile and desktop version are missing you might want to visit the signature box and retype it.

No. The ECM assumes it still stock 235 HP injectors. This is why timing needs adjustment. The only thing that will advance timing is to have an excessive cold temperature for IAT sensor. Like I said when it's below +80*F the ECM jacks in another 4 degrees of advancement. When the IAT rises then the timing retards again. Like @pepsi71ocean told me about setting his injectors doe 320 bar really made a difference. This also changes the timing a bit too as you increase pop pressure it just slightly later than the injector fires but with bigger nozzles the quantity of fuel will flow faster into the cylinder versus stock nozzles.

I've got a full write up on it...

No don't bother. Just unplug the switch part and send it back to @Me78569. Nick got the parts pile and can solder in a new switch and just send it back to you. Just a few day both ways for mail. Stuff the switch in a flat rate mailer.

Could you get a picture of your High Idle Switch so we can see possibly what is broken? This why we built these on PCB because that makes it possible for us to replace the broken parts like switches fairly easy. Compared to the old Ed Grafton design which made it nearly impossible to repair. This way we can get your switch functional again at least that would help out in the MPG's.

If I want to do that all I got to do is get a tank of the B15 Biodiesel in Oregon and I could do that really easy. For some reason, Idaho petroleum diesel is treated very well for cloud point and pour point. Still to this day 356k miles and not used one anti-gel product nor had it gelled or freeze up. I'll admit I've seen lots of local kids with Daddy's Diesel truck and stealing a bit of the red dye from the ranch and end up gelled up on the highway. I've also seen the same thing where the fuel was froze up from the excessive amount of water. I've seen even a FASS 150 pump blowing fuses because the pump was a block of ice and so was the straw couldn't blow air into the tank. Most of this I see from long-term storage of fuel and trying to use the wrong grade of fuel at the wrong time. Just being too CHEAP and fussing over 2 to 5 cents for cheap fuel where the fuel station does NOT use water blocking filters. Yeah, I've done my homework and know which stations NOT to buy diesel from period.

If you can't get it started using the BC hot wire method the VP44 is done. Just wanted to be clear about what it takes to start sometimes being that some people might be giving up too easy and buying another VP44 and really didn't need it.

Now, this problem is gone. Not solved though. This morning the mirrors started working again and so did the dome light. Still never found the G304 ground. Something I've wiggled or push on made things work again.

Bulb is good. I can't really test the mirrors unless I pull the doors apart. It's a power issue for sure. Fuse is good. I've tested to C302 and there is power to that point. I'm starting to think its a bad ground but still can't find any documentation on G304 ground even the FSM doesn't list anything. My wiring diagrams here show the rear of the cab near the rear speaker. I've got to put back together my dash now that I know everything to that point is good.

All I can say is pull the shaft back and inspect the splines on both the steering shaft and the input shaft of the gearbox.

Input shaft...

That wasn't a very good idea... That is going to bring even more cold air to the engine.

...and they say "Cold Air Intakes" are good for performance. Anything under 80*F IAT is too cold. The other problem that most don't think about is the local fuel have already start switching over to 45 and 50 cetane with lower cloud points. This will make the matter worse because with the enhanced ignition quality of the fuel and the enhanced timing stack on the ECM blindly will make for huge reduction in MPG which most start seeing a 2-4 MPG drop because of this problem. Optimally you want to get your IAT back above 80*F in real temp not fooled for the best performance. This is where the winter fronts come in covering the grill and prevent cold air from blowing on the intercooler. This will help with keeping the IAT temperature up. This is a diesel engine you need heat to make the fuel go BANG! This is where the BHAF shines the best because it is drawing the warmth of the engine what little there is. Another factor is don't use any extra cetane or anti-gel if you can avoid it. cetane booster and anti-gel products will reduce the BTU's of the fuel, even more, reducing the MPG even lower. Excessive use of anti-gels can cause VP44 damage because you are stripping away the lubricity with more solvent to cut the waxes in the fuel. Most are based on Xylene or Kerosene for pour point depressants. Again you want to avoid using if at all possible. Myself I've never used any of these products and never gelled up once yet. High cetane means lower BTU's. This is what my local fuels look like. The problem is that the ECM cannot measure the cetane level of the fuel at all. This is a factor that is not considered and is the best problem of why the MPG drop in winter time. Quadzilla is the ultimate answer. Being you can build your entire timing table around the cetane of the fuel and your current IAT to give the best possible MPG still which will still surpass the MPG switch because it locked the IAT at 143*F. Even with temps falling here into the teens I'm still touching 19 MPG with no big issues.

No Internet access allowed. No electronics. No cellphones, no tablets, no laptops allowed. Again no internet... This is why he's requesting books, catalogs anything to do with Dodge diesels and Ford diesels.

What's broken on it? If it the switch part get a hold of @Me78569 he'll work with you. If its the cable part I can handle that part.