Mopar1973Man

Pull the fuel pump relay from the PDC and crank the engine over and get a measurement. No. worthless. You need a solid 5 to 15 seconds of cranking to see a good number and make sure you not measuring a air bubble or wild numbers. WOT at safe highway speed like passing another vehicle. Where you stomped to the fuel pouring everything you got under load. Engine is governor out to 3,200 RPM anyways.

Could you list the part numbers if you know them please. @greed

Both probes in the 4, 5, 6 tube. I've got my EGT cooldown set for 300*F and it shocks most diesel owners to see the truck shut off by itsefl. I've had people chase me down to tell me my truck did shut off. Just about the time they do that the truck shut down. Then they stand there saying I own a 2nd gen also but it won't do that!

Personally, I would just ditch that chunk of line and get some quality diesel fuel line and two hose clamps and just replace that section. The piece of line from the bottom tee connection to the frame rail going back to the tank is just plastic. It firms up of the years of 140 to 160*F fuel ran through it.

Stick a socket on the bolts and smack the ratchet handle with your hand they are not torqued in that tight. Only 4 bolts holding the damper on. Not like the old days of taking the center bolt out of Chevy crank and then using a puller to get the damper of the crank. Nowhere near that. Just a couple of smack with your hand and the bolt will give in.

1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has the factory flat running boards. I hate this version The underside packs with snow really bad and your constantly washing the using side off. The top side is very slick in wet or snowy conditions. More than once have I landing back in the seat or on the ground because of these running boards. The metal hardware is taking a beating from all the salt and mud. 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 has the Bully nerf bars. I like these because the will not hold mud or snow it just falls off. The steps you still got to be careful of the plastic steps will give traction for the most part and help prevent falling or slipping but over the years the sun has cooked the plastic and now breaking apart. The chrome tube is very resistant to mud and salt and never really showing any signs of rust or failure yet.

Boy talk about towing power. The new ratio with 245's is totally awesome. Even with all this and pushing 17,000 pounds total, I'm able to leave it in 5th gear most of the way home. EGT's are at least 100-150*F lower than previously climbing grades. With my current Quadzilla Tune left on level 3 (No wiretap) I can stand on the throttle till truck will not accelerate any longer and never cross 1,100*F EGT's. Coolant temperature with the 180*F thermostat will still climb quite well but nothing out of the normal where it climbs to about 210*F. Most of the trip home I left the cruise set for 60 MPH and only two grades I slowed down to 55 MPH because with the smaller tires 60 MPH in 4th gear is nearly 2,400 RPM so at 55 MPH it's like 2,200 RPM. In 4th gear it hovering like 1,000 to 1,100*F even on a 7% grade now. I'm for sure keeping this tire size!

Brought home the Honda Rancher ATV and the 31 foot Jayco Eagle last night. Something a 5er cant do... Boy, I like my leveling kit sitting nice and level. Don't look like a squatting Ford.

Coming to a neighborhood near you. Snow line is about 6k in elevation here.

95 will be easy compared to the CR engine.

The only time I pay attention to the WTS is the first start of the day. After that I stab the key, twist, and fire the beast up. Like everyone said above if the WTS is not lighting up instantly the VP44 and the ECM are not booted up and are braindead till at least the WTS light comes on. The very first instruction is to light the WTS up and the check for IAT and battery temp to figure out if grid heaters are required. It possible to have 190*F engine temp and 120*F IAT temp and still get grid heaters pre-start and post start this is based on battery temperature.

I like running the Quadzilla headless. Have a new friend jump in the truck that doesn't know about the Quadzilla and let it rock and roll and they are shocked at the power the truck produces without a visible tune seen in the cab. Not to mention the fact if you use you daily cellphone as your display none the wiser when you pull your cell phone out of the truck. People look at my truck and figure its just stock, small tires, blah... Not much of a target being there is no flash to my truck. I've got ISSPro EV2 gauges with programmable warning lights. I've got my EGT gauge set for warning light at 1,200*F. Then my Fuel pressure gauge has the warning light set for 13 PSI. Then my boost gauge is 40 PSI warning light. Really nice because now you don't have to look at the gauge directly just the level at which the light comes on is enough to warn me. From top to bottom is Boost, fuel pressure and Pyrometer. If the lowest light pops on I know it time to lift my foot and grab a gear down. No need to eagle eye the gauges anymore.

Too high during cranking should be 7 to 12 PSI. Normal under load should be 14 to 20 PSI. 17 PSI is OK for idling but what is it at WOT?

That should be +12V. RED wire is the power from the transmission relay. The PCM only ground or open the Orange/Black lead.

Ummm... You mean F over rebuilt DATSUN right?

If I remember right the power steering bracket is rather strange and required you to reach through the pulley to remove the bolts and then was the pump was detached you can get that bolt out.

Getting ready for my TTS days of driving 250 miles.

Grid heaters alone can pull fuel pressure down.

Trick. When you get the banjo bolt out and set up with the first washer. Now insert the banjo bolt back into the banjo fitting. Now push the fuel return line towards the firewall this will trap the bolt from falling out now you can install the second sealing washer. Now you can screw it back into the head.

Most all data is sent over the CCD network as for the speed signal its used but both PCM and ECM both.

What is the fuel pressure doing during cranking? If you want the video the first cranking event you'll see a air bubble come and the pressure falls off and I stopped the video. Then the second try you'll see it was a good cranking run with it just bouncing.

I guess I'll have to pack the good camera with me and get a picture of the dodge hauling home the 31 foot Jayco RV and Honda Rancher ATV together.

If its a DDRP yes its possible to have this issue. IF its a full FASS or AirDog no this problem doesn't exist. Being that the full series has a power relay that is triggered by the ECM and powered from battery power. Where the DDRP is power directly from the ECM so if the pump is locked or having issues the full load is past through the ECM putting it at risk of damaging the ECM and then also adding load to the PDC.

Sure it's easy. Just drag the photo files to the box below the text editor. It already says "Drag files here to attach or choose files" I really can't show for Windows people sorry to say I've not used a Windows OS in years now. I'm fully Linux.

That is tachometer signal not road speed. Road speed is reported over the CCD network from the ABS to ECM. Another way to tell also is if the ECM do not receive speed info from CCD the grid heater will continue to cycle after 20 MPH.