Mopar1973Man

ABS reports the speed on the CCD network. So I would have to say it CCD network to ECM issue. Being CCD network to cluster or PCM is working. I would check for any errors.

Should see the 215s on my half ton. Those are nearly razor thin. Best part is now reaching the high MPG number since I bought the truck back in 2001. High mark of 17.05 MPG. As for the 245s I'm just right there at 21 MPG now.

Sorry to hear about your Dad. That rough to battle cancer and keep going back and forth. Wow! I kind of understand that challenge being I'm taking care of my 82 year old Mom (MoparMom) with kidney failure. Your comment about the economy struck home for me. Being I travel back and forth the 3days a week to Ontario, OR I've been paying attention to the economy in all this town as watching them decline more. Like Riggins, ID is barely hanging in there and survives from tourism. I'd love to back in full swing of doing mechanic work as I've done in the past making typically 60 an hour. Most jobs I'm turning down because of the time to do the job. Not very many mechanics out here.

Kind of upset. That gasket kit has every darn seal you could ask for. But... The two sealing washers for the return rail. I've got the return rail hooked back up, IAT sensor, MAP sensor, ECT sensor, Boost plug for my gauge, heater hose fitting. I've managed to put the first torque cycle at 40 ft/lbs and then the second one at 80 ft/lbs. Taking a bit of break that rough pulling and push a torque wrench for 26 studs hung over the radiator that long. Ugh.

Got it... Jack and an old 2x6 did the trick. No dent even just lift that needed 1/4" and it fell right in.

I'm starting to think of cutting a 2x4 just long enough to reach a floor jack and the lightly lift the body just enough to slip it in there.

Nope. Like either the engine has to drop a 1/4" or the cab has to rise a 1/4".

Help! I'm stuck. I've got all but one long stud in the head. The cowl hangs down too much to get the long stud in. Is there any trick for getting past this? I know @Me78569 done studs on his 2nd Gen he would know but I'm not sure what to do and I'm stuck. All the other stud are in and seated lightly.

The worst one to try to find is the compressor front seal failure and leakage. Typically don't leave any oil or dye behind.

Yes. Hollow kitty. Yeah it could be due for timing chain but right now my focus is getting the head gasket done on the Cummins before I dig deep in the V8.

Here you go. I've got one in both trucks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XWFLYNC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just use foam insulation and covered the lines.

Only good for stock injectors. This why I still suggest the Quadzilla Adrenaline over the XZT because then you not bound to small or stock injectors and then deal with the lag issues. Basically, build a tune for performance and a daily tune with a mellow fuel curve for smoke control. Basically in a nutshell XZT is just an Edge EZ. Again design its tuning around stock injectors. No timing control, no fuel control no fuel to boost control. You could buy a Quadzilla XZT and a set of RV275 injectors.

Maybe you should talk to @cajflynn he towed heavy for 1.3 MILLION miles with a 53 block. Never cracked. Not all 53 blocks will crack. Problem is you can do just the seal but like @Dieselfuture he's had to do them twice now.

Should work out just fine. VP44 is mostly steel part inside. There is only a few o-ring seals in the entire pump so as long as the pump has fuel inside it should be fine.

The problem is finding where the oil is coming from. Is it truly the valve seals? Did you buy the truck used? Did the previous owner run it hard? Excessive high EGT's? Are the seals just baked and harden? Rubber seal are not going to last forever. Like all other seals on the engine rubber will harden and start to leak. So if you going to buy a new truck are you willing to go to the 4th gen? Because any 2nd gen you buy at this point will all need to address age problems unless you pay big money for a truck that you know has a freshly rebuilt engine and transmission. Just things to think about. One of few reasons I still hang on to my truck because I can't swallow the idea of $4,000 every 100k miles for CR injectors or take the risk of eating $5,000 worth of engine washing out a cylinder or two.

Quadzilla is $674 Reman'ed RV275's $379 Only $295 more for the Quadzilla. Heck even my +75 (7 x 0.0085) Injectors are $349

You'll find out that if you that far you might as well pull the head and just do it right. The thing is I never knew the seals where there in the head till the oil was drained off. Chances of you finding the seal bits with the head full of il is going to be thin. Then if you going to pull the springs then you got to pull all the rockers and have the compression tool. The cylinder would have to be at TDC to hold the valves from dropping into the cylinder. So now you got to pull the injectors just to check for TDC of each cylinder. Heck at that point just pull the exhaust manifold and turbo and unbolt the head. So either commit to doing it right. Or just let hang in there till the problem worsens like my cases the oil smoke was producing a fairly large cloud and burning at least 1-2 quarts in 7k miles. Then at the same time my head gasket started leaking.

Bingo...

The only way you going to find the seal bits is dig around with your fingers. I never seen the bits of seal till I tipped the head and let the oil drain off then the seal bit showed right up. Most likely find 5 and 6 cylinders with the most. Then you need the valve compression tool and take the springs off and check and see if the guides have excessive play. If the guides are worn then replacing the seals will not hold up. In my case I'm glad the head gasket went. It would of really sucked to do all the valve work to replace the seals and then just find out that I'd been the same boat as @Dieselfuture where the seal would of been damaged again by the wobbling of the valves.

A bit of tweaking to the timing making a small retarded area to get spool up faster and the jump into advancement but keep it down around 19* total at cruise. This will help a bunch with launching smoke and EGT control too. Then fuel map start out about 90% and work your way up 1% per 1 PSI of boost then after 10 PSI than you can step up 2% per PSI.

Ummm that is part of the reason I pull the head and had it reworked. I had failed valve seals. Valve guides start to fail and valve wobbles and the seals get damaged.

Easy to answer if your normal highway speed is 65 MPH then 3.73 final ratio would be optimal. This would put your at a perfect 2,000 RPM's at 66 MPH. This has just been pushing my MPG just over 21 MPG just before I parked for the head gasket. Quadzilla Adrenaline

4 choices... 1. Deal with the ugly faces and pissed off people and possible smog violation. 2. Change out the wheels and tires to correct your final ratio. 3. Spend the big money on getting the gears changed in both front and rear axles. (about $4,000) 4. Change from the Edge to Quadzilla and add some lag to your daily fuel map to control smoke,