Mopar1973Man

I got to say Thank You to @dripley ... He's taught me something today which I've got to pass along to all you. The 2002 Dodge Ram truck have only a 1 wire oil pressure sensor. The wiring diagram is incorrect for the 2002 trucks and does NOT have the Orange or the Black/Light Blue wires. Now looking at the 2001 and 2000 model years are 3 wire oil pressure sensors. I've even gone down to my truck and checked and sure enough only one wire the black/light grey.

Behind the fuel filter housing. There should be a large box mounted to the driver side of the block.

I'm pretty sure Vulcan has 3/8" line fittings too. You'll have to call and ask him.

Here you go... Joint Connector 2 is at the top. As you can see its a power feed. for the ECM and PCM. Double check your fuse #3 make sure its the right size. As you can see the devices in this map. Watch for the connection DOT those are connected but lines without the dot are not connected.

Vulcan Performance has Parker Push Lock Tee for fuel pressure.

You asked.

Looks like you might have to beat the case out flat on top just a bit and drill a fairly large hole for that insulator to slide down inside. If you figure it out you gotta make the article for the website article database.

Ummm... You might want to look into the plugin I use on Chrome. https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/grammarly-for-chrome/kbfnbcaeplbcioakkpcpgfkobkghlhen?hl=en

Not being able to keep the stud from shorting out. If your game and willing to gamble. you could try and modify the case to fit but I wonder if it will work out.

Not unless you have a deep groove. Even then you have to get a special seal now because the sleeve is making the crank thicker than stock. Like mine the dust lip left a groove so I just push the seal in just a fraction deeper and ran it. That might be a mild PITA. That fan shroud with the 4 studs needs to be removed to get the radiator out. Once the shroud is out then the radiator will come out fairly easily . LOL... Same on my Asus laptop too. The keys just don't feel right to me yet.

eCigarette will fit in either port for charging if its USB.

Sucking air into the system possibly? Suction lines will not leak outwards. They continue to draw air in and never show any sign of leaking. Now @JAG1 has a trick of using a shop vacuum where you hook up the hose for blowing. This should push enough air into the fuel tank to keep pushing fuel in the lines to hopefully push it out your leak. If this is not enough pressure you can use compressed air with a blowgun and a shop rag and put 1 to 2 PSI worth of pressure in the fuel tank hopefully so a second person can spot the fuel leak.

Take a can of brake clean and spray down the area with the engine hot so it evaporates fast. Now idle the engine and watch for where the fuel is coming from. I just got done with the same issues. Between the return rail at the back of the head and a few loose injection lines I was dripping off the rear of the head and running off the bellhousing. The brake clean will make it clean and dry and allow you to source out the fuel trail and where its coming from. I know its frustrating to have fuel dripping off the engine.

What do you mean off? Disconnected? Voltage wise? If voltage wise do NOT reset the voltage or attempt to adjust the sensor!

Neither did I. As far as I know there is no way to modify being you would need the other style of case. Then you be set but that means buying another alternator or finding a junker.

Could you start a support ticket and I'll handle your refund? https://mopar1973man.com/support/ I'm sorry! I didn't think there was a different style of diode pack and change of alternator setup.

The regulator is built in. Not to mention the fuel line are restrictive and not helping the problem if you still got all the OEM 6mm ID lines yet and banjo bolts.

I've hooked back up the grid heaters on my truck. Now that I've tested my alternator and done the @W-T ground wire mod. I'm going to monitor this winter and see if the alternator holds up better or not.

Which APPS sensor did you buy? Here is for the error code.

Typically you would remove the return fitting and behind there is a spring and ball. What series of FASS do you have?

As far as removing the lower section of dash you would have to pull the entire dash out. The best I could say is pull the knee bolster and the cup holder and reach between the two as needed.

You might look at the ISPro EV2 which is electric gauge or the ISSPro EV which is mechanical. ISSPro EV2 is USB programmable and you can set the low fuel light for warning measure. The ISSPro EV you can plumb in the gauge using air brake line and never have to worry about electrical. Air brake line is rated for burst pressure of 600 PSI. Just make sure to use a snubber at the tap point and remote mount the electric sensor away from the tap point. If mechanical it automatically remote mounted away from the tap point.

Wiring is damaged or the sensor. Either way, there is no ground bias for the Edge tuner and the fuel pressure continues to display 33 PSI. Kind of like my ISSPro gauge if I unplug the wire to the sensor it will wrap the needle around till its pointing straight down which means there is no ground bias. Basically trying to show the highest pressure the needle can point to.

I'm pretty sure the wires won't reach from the cigarette light down to the power socket. I also think they are different power connections too. Looking at the 1996 Dodge I've got the power to the cigarette lighter is round socket where the power point is a double spade connector. Personally, I'm trying to get away from all the cigarette light stuff... Take a look here... https://www.amazon.com/Zeato-Charger-Waterproof-Adapter-Smartphone/dp/B0775NVN28/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1539018334&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+power++automotive

Edge tuner is built the same way our trucks are. The sensor power lead is 5V and the sense in on the same wire. This means the Juice is looking for ground bias to report fuel pressure. Since the sensor lead was damaged that means the 5V line was maxed out all the time. Hence why you see 33 PSI of fuel pressure. Just to show the same thing. Unplug the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor and turn the key on. You see the Temp Gauge rise to Max and trip the CHECK GAGE light and CHECK ENGINE lights. Again the same thing the ECT is a 5V line with the sensor looking for ground bias from the ECM. When disconnected the gauge goes to max. So I'm sure you wonder about the low volt code... That when the sensor is ground out now the gauge would be reverse. Same with the fuel pressure gauge on the Edge but there is no code for that just a gauge stuck at ZERO.