Mopar1973Man

Just a plastic access cap, no vent.

You would better off setting you goals on a good tuner first. HX35 can work with +100HP injectors with a good tuner.

HE351 is the same as my hybrid expect it tiny exhaust housing. HE351 (60/60/9) HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) Personally, I would go for the hybrid before the HE351. Better exhaust flow.

No. That just an installer tool.

I've used a NAPA seal on mine still doing good over 100k miles.

Typically he does but if he's not responding in a day or so send him a message.

Rev 027 pump do not have a diaphragm. The only ground you need to worry about is the passenger side battery terminal. You might consider the W-T ground mod. What is your fuel pressure? Cranking, idling, highway speed and WOT?

Time to talk to @Dynamic he's the forum transmission guru.

No such sensor exist on the VP44. From the Dodge FSM book.

At the most a crank seal. The gear case I'm pretty sure is like the 2nd Gens has no gasket and just grey silicone. No real parts to order a local part house should have all this in stock. The only thing that has oil is the gear case in front.

P0606 is an ECM failure. Passenger side battery is the ground for the ECM. The if the alternator has bad diodes then the AC noise will produce the P0606 code from AC voltage damage to the ECM. I highly suggest... Replace both batteries. Have the alternator tested on a test stand for AC ripple Replace all battery cable that is damaged. Do the @W-T ground wire mod. Clear the codes and see if the P0606 comes back.

Standard NAPA track bar. I don't buy into the premium junk.

Yes, replace it. I bought an Autozone track bar being low on funds. I was shocked to find the AutoZone track bar was a sealed unit and figured that the ball end would fail first. Nope. The rubber end failed and it was pulling the bolt back and forth. Once replaced it with NAPA track bar the steering was tight once again.

On 3rd gens there is so little room compared the earlier 2nd gen. I know on the second gens you can do the crank seal and gear case without pulling the front apart. As for the 3rd gens I would opt to at least pull the fan out so to gain some room. Yeah you got to unplug the fan clutch and get a fan wrench set but once the fan is out of the way I'm pretty sure you'll be able to change the front crank seal and reseal the gear case.

I would suggest against it. Typically the DDRP (Dodge Direct Replacement Pumps) don't address the plumbing issues. So the pressure problem will continue. Also the DDRP pump don't isolate the ECM from the pump so if the pump shorts out you take the risk of eating a ECM. There is no fuse or relay for protection like the bigger kits like AirDog 150 or FASS 150. You need a fuel system that replaces everything from the fuel tank to the VP44. So you going to buy a good high power fuel lift pump but force it to suck on a 6mm straw and push fuel through the choked banjo bolts. Not a good idea. Good way to experience this is take your favorite beer put it on the back bumper and get some 6mm tubing and suck your brains out to get your beer. The stock fuel pickup module is also too small to this why most have either modified the stock fuel module or just installed a drawstraw.

I would only reuse an evaporator in two conditions are met. 1. There is no visible damage to the evaporator or visible leaks which show up as an oily spot. 2. No "Black Death" in the tubes. Black Death is the aluminum grindings from the compressor. As long as the tubes are clean I'd use it.

Talk to @IBMobile he knows the relay to use.

4 quarts.

Well below the minimum. The new standard is 14 to 20 PSI.

Just like me shutting down my exhaust brake I get the crack from the discharge of the solenoid magnetic field just like an ignition coil. You'll need a proper filter diode like in quality relay have that reduce the discharge spike across the diode.

Problem is you need 14 to 20 PSI for optimal VP44 lifespan. Below 14 PSI the overflow valve is closed. Stock Carter might barely do 14 PSI at idle but will drop it 8 PSI because the plumbing is too small.

Between injectors or compression. You could pull the injectors and gave them tested with DAP. While the injectors are out do a compression test. You'll find out if you wash out the rings and cylinder walls. Then the injector test will tell you if the injectors are failing or just wore out.

Time do a compression test.

Most likely to go along with the synthetic chicken right?