Mopar1973Man

Your pockets must be deeper than mine. I've got hard enough time trying to scrape up $1,000 just to have the head serviced. I still not ordered a gasket set. Then I've got to order head bolts at least. I've got to get moving along with this project I need this truck for winter time for sure.

Actually the codes are on the ECM ad the bus is down to the ECM so it can't report.

Maybe you should get out of the city. There are leather crafters out there today making all these wares. Strange though you so these kinds of shops in small towns but never see them in big cities. That because today we are blending down fuel and taking out the energy. If you looked at the BTU's of the old school leaded gasoline back then it contained much more BTU's Then unleaded refined more BTU's out. Now we are dumping Ethanol into the fuel in different blends ratios. Again stripping more BTU's out of the fuel. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline_gallon_equivalent Right there you need more fuel to produce the same amount of work so actually, we are working backward requiring more fuel to do the same amount of work.

Dumb question. I kind of know the answer. With the LED Morimoto's I've got to ask will the beam have enough heat to shed snow or ice off the lens? I know the PIAA 18w LED driving lights I've got now are too weak to shed snow they will freeze over in a winter storm. I'm not sure if there is any heat produced by the LED on the Morimoto.

Even @trreed would have a good idea of what to get.

I've got over 5 feet from my tap point to the sender. My snubber is at the tap point. The the sender is mounted on the fender. Much easier access for testing.

Kind of like these people... These people are running loose on the streets near you...

Not good... In tank pumps typical don't hold good pressure.

Take it easy. Plenty to read and ask questions. @Taz also had the same thing done it changes your life.

It about the oil part. We want to increase lubricity without increasing the cost. No, you don't have to have the most expensive oil and highly suggested not to use synthetic oils. WalMart SuperTech is common cheap answer to the problem and will not harm the fuel system or injectors.

Most likely the cause. 5-volt Supply Circuit MAP Signal Circuit Short To Ground MAP Signal Circuit Short To Sensor Ground MAP Sensor Intermittent Wiring Problem

Action Dodge - Ontario, OR Purchase Date: October 26, 2002 - Birthday present! Actually, I'm very aware of the condition of the truck doing weekly look overs for fluid leaks and damaged parts. Like my list as it stands right now is head gasket, head rebuilt (valve seals), Power Steering reservoir seal, and the rear sway bar links. I might not post every problem I have but I'm aware of everything.

No crossing of fluids. Just coolant leaking outwards at the rear of the head. Yeah, it sucks. Being I've still got to get MoparMom to dialysis treatments 3 days a week. That means swapping to the gasser and tearing down the Cummins. Either way it still got to be done.

Well taken care of. I was hoping for at least 500k miles. @dripley is going have me beat for sure I know he's also looking at head gasket too If I'm not mistaken. Heck with all my driving I'm most likely going to be putting a clutch in the truck before too long. Just about got 100k on the transmission since it was rebuilt and the clutch is coming up to about 70k or so. I've still got the other issue of the power steering reservoir to fix yet. Ugh...

I'm on the phone right this second looking for a local machine shop to do the head work and then calling @dieselautopower to see about gaskets and head studs. I really don't want to do the project twice. Somewhere on this side of the block. I can't follow the wet trail behind Getting really expensive really quick. I've got a shop that that can service the head completely. I'm looking at a worse case scenario of $1,000 for just the head work doing everything. Then DAP for studs... https://www.dieselautopower.com/arp-12mm-headstud-kit-247-4202 Jacob is suggesting, I ask around the forum for someone's bolt kit from a rebuild were someone used ARP studs and at least get new head bolts. Man, I just spent $1,000 on tires last week. I'm in a tight position and this is getting expensive very quickly.

Sad part its not coming from a freeze plug. All freeze plugs are in good condition I can barely see coolant weeping from the head gasket rear passenger corner.

Server screw up...

Happen to be walking by the truck parked in the shop and noticed a small puddle of green coolant. It where its at which is strange. Back at the bellhousing. I know the only freeze plug back there is the block freeze plug but as far as I can see right now there is no coolant coming from that freeze plug but I fear the worst.... Possible head gasket.

I suggest talking to @trreed or @TFaoro they can get you set up good.

Ummm... Neither is needed. That what water separators are for. Then buying quality fuel from fuel station with water block filters and the pump. Never had a single water issue in years. Even with winter temps down to -30*F never gelled. All I use is 2 cycle oil that all. I've never used an anti-gel product ever! Highly suggest against using ATF and engine oil neither are designed to be burned. Both are extremely high in ash content and with cause injector problems. ATF has anti-scorching compounds retard burning and friction modifiers. Now with engine oil there is zinc and other soft metals added that is your ash content. Ashed injectors. Tell me that's not screwing with spray patterns? More about this here...

Basically, there are 4 ways of killing a VP44... Fuel pressure - Optimal is 14 to 20 PSI of fuel pressure at all times. Filtration - Double stacking filters like AirDog 150 and the stock filter is optimal. AC Noise - Should replace your alternator (or diodes) in you have over 50mV AC then consider doing the W-T ground mod. Lubricity - Bosch states that fuels should be 460 HFFR or less. US fuels are already 520 HFRR or higher at times.

Won't happen. Being the ECM timing curve is way too retard for most driving styles. There are only two tuners that give full control of the timing and fuel curves now. Quadzilla Adrenaline and the Smarty UDC. Hands down the Quadzilla Adrenaline gives the best control of the VP44 for the money. Smarty UDC is way too expensive and way too complex for most people here to even dive into the UDC tuning. Quadzilla with a handful of numbers can create a good tune. Being that most your time will be spent at about 12* to 14* BTDC timing with just a ECM tune. Now with the Quadzilla I'm floating 20* to 21* BTDC at 55 to 65 MPH. Then problem is once the engine load (commanded fuel) is above about 18% to 20% stock your timing falls off into a blackhole which now creates more EGT's and slight rises in boost pressure which is not needed at cruise state. My current Quadzilla tune drops the EGT's as low as 450*F at 55 MPH and boost falls to nearly ZERO this brings the engine load down as low as 15% (commanded fuel). I'm floating 20-21 MPG now and pushing upwards.

Be careful some of these can be just as dry as the fuel itself. No to mention raising the cetane and reducing BTU's. After clearing 243k miles on my last VP44 with just 2 cycle oil I seriously doubt any other product can do as well at lubrication. As you can see this timing piston was galled up badly. I had to heat the pump body with propane torch to just remove it. The timing piston movement are based on fuel pressure and lubricity. VP44 is having timing piston issues. This is just about what mine was doing when it failed at 243k miles. Mine was horrid in the failure being it was in full advancement with heavy knocking and max speed of 30 MPH then when it let go it would run fine for at least about a mile then the timing piston would stick again. Power would drop pulling my max road speed down to 30 MPH with heavy knocking. When I got home you could smell the hot blow by from the excessive timing. Still got me home 15 miles away though.

I can say without a doubt I'm going to keep the 245's for future tire size. I'll never look back at 235's or 265's. You know how people whine about 5-speed transmissions and you have to wind it up tight to get from 3rd to 4th. Then people claim this is why the 6 speed came out for better overlap of gears. Well, guess what? With 3.55 axle gears, 245/75 R16 tires and NV4500 transmission, the gear has serious overlap now. I'm in 4th gear as early as 25 MPH and 5th gear by 35 MPH. No joke. Way better power and spread of gears. No need for winding uptight anymore. I can do the majority of my trip now in 5th gear that includes winding through the canyons. City stuff tends to be mostly 4th gear. 2nd you basically launch in and 3rd gear is long gone by 15 MPH. As for fuel mileage, I've got to grab my fuel logs and crunch some numbers but I'm loving the idea I might start skipping the fuel station on Thursday. The last trip There and back I was right at a bit below quarter tank used. Power wise if I downshift one gear, pound the throttle allow the Quadzilla to hit the 15 PSI limit for the wiretap when fuel comes on the whole rear axle starts to wrap up and tires start to break loose on dry pavement. The power is quite impressive. Even in 5th gear, it builds speed very fast. Downshifting is not required anymore. Steering wise it feels much lighter like my 1996 Dodge 1500. Kind of steering where you can hook your single finger on the spoke of the wheel and control with one finger for miles. No double grip, no saw steering, no fighting, straight as an arrow and smooth. Easy to steer with that Bluetop quick ratio and the 245's.