Mopar1973Man

Vehicle version should be 3.88. When I switched to the V2 only it updated the app for me.

Damn I've got to get up and pour a cup.., dragging tail bad this morning.

I've tried everything. Off, on, value of 0 and 1. Either way the MPG trip data is lost every key cycle. I'm going to have to list this as Bug.

Trailer needs a paint job matching the truck or at least cover up that rust. Truck looks awesome but the old trailer behind it. Come on Nick you can make it look pretty can't you?

No reservoir was on this pump. Just a pump in a bag. The store clerk picked it off with his fingers and handed me the seal. No charge. Being nice I bought two quarts of power steering fluid. Guys like this you have to tell him Thank you like getting a 12 pack of beer of some sort. But I've got a fresh pump to reservoir seal. Those I'm sure I've got with all the A/C o-ring kit floating around the shop.

Every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday I'm up at 6am MST. I'm out the door by 7:30am and hauling down the highway 125 miles to Ontario, OR. Gotta be there at 11am for MoparMom's appointment. Then at about 3:30pm pick her up and haul home like tonight I got home at about 6:30pm. Gotta have two cups of coffee to get kick started for the morning drive. Then when I stop for breakfast in Weiser, ID I have another cup with breakfast which typically is a breakfast burrito covered in breakfast gravy. Now that I'm home I'll have one cup of coffee now to relax head for the bed shortly around 9pm or 10pm typically.

As far as the cowl to glass now not on my truck.

Head over to the 24V 2nd Gen articles and read up on CCD network bus. All the diagnostic info is there. It would help if you listed any error codes. Remember if there is any other failed modules will give the no bus message too.

Zero.

Yes. Just dropping from level 7 to level 3 then I can mat the throttle climbing grades and never reach 1200F EGTs. Its seems to reset in both positions. Both on or off Avg MPG is zero at next key on event.

Being I've got a set race track I do every Tues, Thurs, and Sat it makes it easy to study the effects of a change in a few laps. Basically run 250 miles every trip so I've got good data to play with. 3.73 should get you close to 3.55 final. Like my last trip towing my 31 foot RV weighing roughly 8,000 pounds I still got 15.9 MPG.

@Quadzilla Power as for the reset of trip if they are left in the off position it will reset the trip every time you hook back up. If they are left on the trip data is saved from cycle to cycle.

If the Raptor is damaged from fuel on the brushes it will happen again this why I mention it and so you could check. Tha what happen to my AirDog 150 after 13 years of service the seal and shaft bearing failed and quit blowing the fuse. I would highly suggest checking the cause out if it is the ECM fault then I suggest getting it fixed. Two things can happen forget to turn on the fuel pump in a hurry or have an accident and being unconscious and having manually switch pump feeding a fire. Either way a bad deal...

Headlight and fog lamp grounds are in the driver side kick panel. Fog lamp relay is in the PDC. There is another rare one if it just one bulb it could be the filament is broken and dance back and forth making contact and braking contact. My old aircraft landing lights were known for that one. Hit a bump the light would come back. Hit another and light would go out.

Other than the misfire sound strange it should create any issues that I know of. Just keep an eye on oil level make sure it not making oil.

I was told by the guy at NAPA that all the rebuilt unit are prone to failure doesn't matter who you get then through now (AutoZone, RockAuto, NAPA, Etc.) So he's going to do a bit of magic and order a pump for me pull the seal and return the pump with a missing seal. Nothing wrong with my pump just the case to pump seal is gone and leaking.

Then it should show up runout if you have them checked now then. If you want to see quality brakes do a search for "Brembo Brakes". I know it's way beyond your price range as well as my own but you'll see what REAL drill and slotted rotors look like. Not the cast rotor you most likely got now that are going to be prone to issues.

Might need to re-pop test all of them.

Bad ground? Bad headlight switch? Bad relay?

Possible fuel in the Raptor motor fouling the motor brushes.

Strange... 3rd Gen body in a 2002... Now I've watch the video. Sorry about that. I was think 2002 2nd Gen body which I've done a bunch. Then my last comments was like the other 2002 3rd Gen here in the valley he smoked the blower motor brushes. Replaced that and problem was gone.

Then the brushes in the blower are most likely worn out and barely touching.

In a nutshell as you make changes to the tune watch the engine load number more so. As you get closer to your optimal mark your engine load number will go down for the same speed. Might not be much but every little bit counts. Just remember engine load translates into the amount of fuel being delivered to the engine. Little easier to look at that than the CANBus fuel number which is the very same number but from zero to 4,095. The biggest thing against you is the tires. I'm going to assume you have 3.55 gears. Basically, you've got a final gear ratio of 3.27:1 to the ground if the axles are geared 3.55. Now if you had 4.10 gears and those tires you would be in the optimal mark for gearing at 3.78:1 almost a perfect 3.73 gear ratio.

Blower resistor is failed You need to replace both the blower motor and the blower resistor as a package. Being the bearings in the blower motor is most likely partially seized up and the blower resistor quit or failing because the extra amperage draw is causing excessive heat on the resistor.