Mopar1973Man

I would only suggest an Edge product if you plan on remaining STOCK injectors. I would suggest Quadzilla for people planning on running larger injectors. Problem, I had with Edge Comp even with RV275 was it was impossible to tune out the smoke. Then the timing is a canned tune so you never really get the tune you need. This was a reason back in the day of being forced down to 55 MPH because as soon as the engine load rises the timing dropped like a rock. I would look at PacBrake if you are going to do an exhaust brake setup. Much better than my old school Jacobs brake. Just consider the thought of the aluminized diamond eye. The factory exhaust was made with the same aluminized pipe as well and went all these years. Stainless pipe from what I found out typically cost more but will not last much longer than the aluminized pipe. I've got the 4" Diamond Eye with muffler now. Very quiet system. The aluminized pipe is holding up great against the salt on the highways. Just the clamps will rot off before the pipe does.

It sure was an all you can eat buffet... Thanks @IBMobile They brought over dinner one night as they passed through... Diesel the Dog, Ibmobile standing by the sink, his wife Jennifer on the left and MoparMom and the right. I was shooting the picture. Not to mention what two years ago bailing Ibmobile out as there VP44 crapped the bed just north of Riggins, ID. I installed it in the RV park...

Being I keep a full fuel log since 20k miles. I'm sure I'll spot how much of a loss is possible. Looks like I need to catch up with August part of the logs...

By the time I reach December, it will be close to -30*F here. I'm just alerting people to be aware of the weather condition and consider this mod like yourself you in the southern half of the states which is fine but us northern folks should not do this mod.

Just for point of reference outside temperatures was 80*F. Like this morning I'm getting up and its 45*F and dark. If I had that cooler on I be in trouble really quick. winter temperatures are around the corner. By October typically there is snow on the ground in the high country.

I remember where another member mention that oil pressure sensor had effect on MAP sensor. I'm not sure who it was but we can hope he sees this and responds.

Possible the 5V circuit could be having issues from oil pressure sensor causing other issues from it.

Might dip a thermometer right into the fluid and get a measurement too.

Most likely a short in that circuit you'll need a power distribution map and then be able to find out what failed.

Looks like LMC truck on the box...

Congrads... It will make you feel better driving down the road looking at a full dash bezel and not a broken one.

After driving 30 miles highway speeds I measured 150*F in the reservoir. The hoses were hot but not enough to burn you but not enough to make me let go either.

Everyone knows I just did a coolant flush not to long ago and change my thermostat for the 190*F from NAPA. Come to find out the new thermostat tend to lean on the high side of the 190's. No problem. MPG numbers seemed good. I started to wonder about if I changed the thermostat from 190*F to 180*F if the IAT would follow? Guess what it does. Instead of the constant +40*F offset the 180*F makes roughly a +30*F offset with 80*F outside temp the IAT floated 105-110*F. If your looking for colder IAT temps then the thermostat will give you at least -10*F drop. This was only a 30 mile round trip to town. I'll leave it in and watch the IAT and ECT closely for the next few days. I'm going to bet I'm going to take an MPG hit because of thermodynamic and too much heat energy will be lost to the coolant being colder. We'll see, won't we? Here is some photos. Part number for NAPA. Old version of the 190*F thermostat versus the new version on the right.

Just like me driving up a narrow one lane forestry road and find out I've got to turn around in the road. You end up doing like a good 5 point forward and backup there is some time when that space is extremely limited and you have to force that steering from lock to lock without moving. Worse yet doing the same thing in an old school small parking lot with pavement and limited room to maneuver. I understand the purpose of tires sizes. Like walking in snow every step you make your foot will sink. Throw on a set of snowshoes and you can walk on top of the snow. This would be the same for mud or sand. Size does matter to the application and usage but there is an inherent risk of damage, being stuck from lack of traction/floatation or worse yet loss of control of the vehicle from too much floatation on icy roads.

Something to try @KATOOM ... Now go out in a paved parking lot. With shoes on foot flat on the ground. Now try to pivot your entire foot on the pavement. You'll most likely break your ankles trying. Now get up on the ball of your foot and pivot you can spin with ease. Size does matter to leverage force where looking at steering. This why it not suggested to have a quick ratio steering back with any tire above 265's because it will kill the steering gear quickly as it will be the weak link like your ankles will be. Being it takes more pressure to twist the large tire hence fluid temperatures are higher. Again a tidbit of science. Just for fun I'll make a lap to town and back today and measure the fluid temp for you.

No it won't... We've got a solution for that too... AC noise will need to be check and fixed but we have a solution to prevent future damage to the computers. Or the simple version...

LMAO... I'm not going that extreme. I don't think that little tire could hold the torque. My selection on size is more based on final gear ratio and face width for the amount of power I'm putting out. Realizing if I go down 1 inch of tire size and gaining nearly 3.73 gear (3.69:1 ratio) this means I've got to keep some width for traction purpose. Hence why I'm looking at the 245's for the Cummins and the half-ton got the 215's being its fraction of the power and fraction of the weight (5,500 pounds). I'm actually applying a bit of science and calculation to the choice. Like the brakes and power steering life span. I'm more in the science of it, not the cool factor. Leverage is still leverage and work is work. Work always creates heat.

Actually be careful... The external regulator is sensitive to under hood temperature. If mount in an area too cold will cause it to overcharge. Then if mount to close to like the turbo the excessive heat will make it undercharge. I've had this discussion with a local tech and found an article dating back to the 1968 realm where Mopar admitted that the external regulator will change the voltage between 13.2 to 14.8 as well based on underhood temperatures. Hence why this system was ditched and the PCM controlled regulator came into existence. Now we can measure the battery temperature and regulate the voltage based on battery temperature and not under hood temperature which can swing pretty wide.

I understand what you're saying. My monthly expenses here would shock most people and how little it actually cost to live where I do. Like with Moparmom doing dialysis in Ontario I've had people ask why don't I sell out place and move to Ontario, OR. Fat chance... I've only got few bills here and the cost of living in Ontario is nearly triple what it cost me now. (Rent, wtaer, sewer, power, phone, internet, trash, etc.) I generate a percentage of my own power. Water is pumped from my own yard. Sewer is a septic tank. Trash I haul myself to the dump. Phone and internet are a package deal. No rent I own the property. Why give this up? Right!

Final gear ratio to the ground makes a huge difference in pulling power. 4.88:1 ratio I'm curious of what size tires are on the truck as well. Funny how on the truck side everyone whines about the 4.10 gears but now the cab and chassis Dodge with 4.88 gears are more likable. Higher gear ratios might make them bit more short legged but the pulling power is surprising better in the 2k RPM realm.

4 to 5 foot frost line. My power steering whines in the dead cold start. Even my 46RE in the half ton whines in the cold on initial start up. LOL. I'm going to clear over 200k miles on brakes. Then I dropped the 265's long ago for the 235's made huge saving fuel wise, ball joint wise, tie rod wise and even track bar wise. Just that small width change of the tires extended the life of everything. Even reduced the temperature of the power steering fluid. Now the change to 245's is going to change slightly wider at 10mm 0.3 inches thne 1 full inch smaller. Will it have an impact? Sure it will. Being I've managed to get all front parts and brakes to outlive the average seen on the Internet. Kind of like the switch to 215's on the 96 Dodge already made a +2 MPG gain on that truck from the 235's I had!