Mopar1973Man

Or the glove box or under the hood.

What is your fuel pressure while cranking? Are you losing prime? Does it start easier if parked with nose downhill?

Loss of prime... The the lift pump is suppose to run 50% duty cycle during starting. Typically about 7 to 12 psi during cranking.

What us locals out here in Riggins Idaho call Guy tight. There was a guy name Guy Eggert nice friend of mine but he never used a torque wrench. Just broke out the 1/2 breaker bar and the cheater bar till either it was stripped out or broke the bolt in half. Me... Ill rather use a torque than guess. Even scrappy low budget torque wrench is better than guessing.

Try having the front end realigned? Possibly got the thrust angle goofy? Lift kits, leveling kits, oversized tires, etc.?

I can tell this between 13 years of 3-inch exhaust and now nearly 2 years of 4-inch diamond eye exhaust... The 4-inch is louder even with muffler installed. Then there was zero EGT difference and zero MPG difference. Made no performance impact. Being I hit my highest MPG on 3-inch exhaust.

Umm... We've got one in the classified ads.

Ummm... I'm in the same position. Web server admin so I get plenty of reading on Dodge Cummins stuff. Too much really... I've got a drooling issue most days.

245s would be better for the 4 speed automatics. Your OD is 0.68:1 vs 0.75:1 for my 5 speed in OD.

So you got the RWAL which is just going to guard the rear axle has no function on the front axle. ABS system doesn't care if the brakes are working or not it all based on speed signal and rate of change of the speed signals. In a nutshell as soon as the switch is closed for the brakes the ABS computer is monitoring the speed sensor(s) for a balanced change of speed. The only reason you would have any line issues is that your brake fluid has degraded from lack of fluid changes. As brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water from the air. As the moisture is absorbed by the brake fluid the boiling point falls quickly as well. Being water has oxygen in it then it has the ability to oxidize metal parts and degrade the rubber parts. This is why brake fluid turns dark to black in color.

Depends on the supporting mods. If you have a fairly stock engine I would suggest the single 62/68/12 turbo. Now if you got the ARP studs, possibly fire-ring head then twins would be a good place to jump to. Being you can tolerate the extra boost without much issues.

This could be an ABS function kicking in quickly. So if the brakes are dragging a bit on one side then there would be a possible offset of left to right speed signals. Which the ABS might be jumping and bumping the electric pump to offset the left to right pressures to keep even braking. I would break down the calipers and inspect them. It's possible the pistons are caked with brake fluid and binding up. With the seals out the piston should fall to the bottom of the cylinder without being pushed. If they are hanging the pistons are caked with brake fluid. You can replace the pistons or just lightly sand them with fine grit sandpaper to get them back to size.

You might not need the 200HP injectors after the re-gear you'll gain power after you re-gear the axles.

I'm running a 4-inch Diamond Eye Exhaust with the muffler. When you get on the throttle she still talks. But cruising she is near quiet as a church mouse. I hear my turbo spooling more than the exhaust.

Another great example of the impact of larger tires and leverage forces it takes to overcome bigger wheels. Since work is going to show up as heat this one reason I don't have these issues with heat and fluid breakdown since I ditched the 265's long ago and dropped to 235's. Now here soon I'll be dropping the 235's (31.7") for 245's (30.5") reducing the leverage forces even more.

I keep seeing that 62/68/12 combo which I fell would be a much better match than my current 60/60/12. Since I'm always on a limited and tight budget it makes it tough to jump into a fresh turbo. So I guess I can dream about it. Basically in a nutshell. 62/68/12 62mm compressor wheel diameter. 68mm turbine wheel diameter. 12cm2 exhaust housing. There is much more than that being the exducer and the inducer sizes of the wheels. But in a quickie that what the 3 numbers mean.

Damn, my dream turbo...

I bought my setup from NAPA about 8 years ago. I'm going to need to replace my manifold gauges they are just physically beat up. Taken way too many drops, falls, and abuse over the years. My vacuum pump is still going today and does an excellent job.

@Haggar that was a wonderful explanation of the power steering system...Could I get you to post this in the 2nd Gen articles, please!?

The wild part is I've seen this truck in person twice now. Once to install his first VP44 and the second time to just have dinner as they passed through Idaho. @IBMobile is a very talented man and got some wonderful ideas for these trucks. (Psst...) we are currently working on another secret squirrel project for these trucks too...

Such a ... Some things never change...

Might still take a look at his design. He's got a floor switch for holding lockup for deceleration for exhaust brake use and self cancelling if you touch the brakes this way you never coming to a stop locked up. Like I said his design is well beyond the simple mystery switch.

This is why I focus on the drags and loss of tires and ratio because these can impact the range that your RPM's fall in. Then with @Me78569 and his comment they kind of go hand in hand with each other.

Oh come on now...

Might not be into fast, but this combo put lots of stress on the transmissions and driveline. Very inefficient typically lowers the MPG's Drops your final ratio down 3.42 to the ground which not efficient for our trucks. Somewhere around 3.73 is optimal. To get things straighten out you would have to either consider regearing to 3.73 or ditch the tires. I've done my study work on this... https://mopar1973man.com/topic/14325-new-tire-size-found-235s-to-245s/