Mopar1973Man

Quadzilla if fair cheaper than the Smarty UDC Pro. Then Quadzilla provides way more power over the Smarty UDC Pro.

Sounds like an oxymoron...

Ummm... Then the whole idea of me power washing the engine every week must really be bad. I spray it down with concentrate engine degreaser let it soak a bit. Then wash down the entire engine with 3,000 PSI power washer from top to bottom. I seriously doubt there is any harm to lose those foam corners. I've lost both on the 96 Dodge no ill effect from it or the power washing. Then on 2002 I kept them both and re-glued with silicone. Still power wash that engine all the time.

Naw that's what I was quoted for the used one I could find. That why I researched rebuilding. Out here Dodge Cummins truck are sold before they even hit the dirt of a salvage yard. Very difficult to get salvage anything Cummins. Dodge gasser are not better but still tough. I seen a great bench seat 2nd Gen. Shocked at the 450 price and it was sold. Dang...

Haha... Another California reject. So am I. I was born and raised in Los Angeles area (Mission Hills, CA to be exact). Enjoy your new life out there and enjoy working on your truck we'll help you get the stuff done...

So I've got to take a whooping for that...

While your all worrying about temperatures of the power steering I look at something a bit different. First off @dripley at 451k miles and still got the stock power steering pump as well as myself at 354k miles and still no issues. Then here in about 2 months, there will be snow on the ground for me. My mornings are starting now at 45*F and getting colder. By the time I get to full winter swing, I can see temps as low as -30*F for the months of December or January. I'll keep doing power steering flushes and changing the fluid. Here in the next week I should have my new 245's on the truck and reduce a bit more steering heat from the system with smaller tires. I'll measure my power steering fluid this winter we'll talk another story.

Ummm... I don't like crimps. I would rather solder and shrink wrap the ends. Like that will never slip out that ring being it soldered together now. How about the grounds? Those are not going to slip out of that ring terminal. Again soldered together. PS: Don't look at the wiretap with crimp terminals...

Not Salvaged no. Too risky. I live way out in the middle of nowhere. Give you an idea it's 125 miles to a WalMart for me. 35 miles to just a NAPA parts store. Post Office is 20 miles. Then getting to a Bank can be 125 mile trip too. Everything I do is about 100-mile drive. So when I research rebuilder like Module Master with a five-year warranty for a mere $130 dollars you'd be foolish to buy a salvage one. When I was at that point the closest ABS module was in Colorado and was priced at $500 and unknown if it would work. No returns on electronic devices on salvage. So would you buy a salvage $500 ABS computer or get you rebuilt with a 5-year warranty for $130??? I think its a no brainer. PS: I almost forgot... There is a CCD Network difference over the years. So you have to have the right year module to work correctly.

The biggest thing about a Smarty S-03 is basically everything is above stock fuel map. So if you already have large injectors like myself there is no way to defuel below stock levels to control launching smoke or pre-boost smoke. This is where the Quadzilla really shines you can go below ECM fuel map level to hold the fuel back long enough to spool cleanly and then pour the fuel on after the turbo spooled a good 10 PSI or so without flooding the highway with smoke. Also, take note to @Me78569 data map that you're at 100% CANBus fuel by 30% to 35% throttle. This makes controlling smoke rather difficult. As you'll see I'm starting with only 80% CANBus fuel max. Something Smarty S-03 can't do...

In all that said... 90% of the people here set their cruise control for 65, 75, or 85 MPH and not think about it. The daily driver there is next to zero gain to be had with exhaust or intakes for a daily driver. Yeah, if you jumped on a dyno or raced quarter mile now these little tidbits will add up to little off your quarter mile time or just a few extra HP/TQ in the curve. Still, in all majority of the people on this website drive their truck to and from work and haul trailers up and down the highway. I've learned long ago not to bite the hype of performance this or performance that because those number only applied to someone that was WOT all the time. Now the daily driver whole different story and different factual numbers come from them.

Why chance it with used junk. Why not just get it rebuilt for $130... https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-kh-dodge/

ABS computer issues most likely? CCD network delivers the speed signal directly to the cluster. PCM is not the handler for speed signal.

That's a project I've got to do in the near future before winter hit and lube the slide pins and check the piston operation. I've replaced my rear calipers last winter because of a weeping brake fluid issue past the piston seals. Not to mention the rust really took hold on the rear calipers. Might have to check mine on the way home with a seat of the pants feel with my finger test for warmth or dragging issues. Might be a good idea with all the miles I put down.

Typically 45 to 48 cetane. Don't let the premium tag get you. Higher the cetane the lower the BTU content. 40 to 43 cetane has much more BTU's over the premium version.

You'll have to PM the author. Most likely they where on Photobucket and Photobucket shutdown their free access. Sorry...

No. Mine doesn't do that at all.

It can be crossover tube o-rings, return line leak, pressure line loose (leaks into the return rail), suction side leak of the lift pump.

Right out that article... http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/operation-diagnosis-and-repair-of-hydro-boost-power-assist-systems/

When you replaced the blower motor did you replace the blower resistor too? If the resistor is failing then the motor will start and stop randomly as the resistor heats and cools.

Just gotta be that voice in your head...

This why most performance add-ons do nothing for the performance like custom intake horn, and exhaust because the normal daily driver isn't going to flowing enough my make a huge difference.

(Cough) Quadzilla Adrenaline (cough)

Typically I won't do A/C recharging on cool or cold days. It throws off the entire pressures and volumes.

My average cruising boost is 2 to 3 psi. Then cruising EGT's 550 to 600 degrees. If you where to measure post turbo I'm going to bet it's about 100 to 150 degrees cooler. 65,000 miles a year and 90% of the time cruise is set a 65 MPH.