Mopar1973Man

Wiper arms are easy to remove. Lift the arm up and you'll see a tab at the pivot. Lift this tab away from the pivot which unlocks the head. Now wiggle the head just a little and lift as you go. It will slide right of the splines.

What bad is most of these people I'm talking about I have told them numerous times that injectors are 100k to 150k mile item that needs to be replaced. Then they typically get this blank look like I didn't know that. Then when you show them prices on CR injectors vs 24V injectors then they get pissed off and ask "Why are my injectors so much more?" Then you go on to explain about CR injectors and how they work and then the light pops on. But now its just too late. I'm sure two of these trucks are now parked and either to rot or to be sold cheap.

I know of now 3 common rail owners getting upset and either wanting to sell there truck or just park it and let it rot. All 3 owners of injector failures of one type or another. When they find out the price of injectors they are not willing to pay the price to replace them. Sad to say I'm finding more and more 3rd Gen being parked or sold out here because the cost of injectors just isn't worth it. Like I talked to one gent locally yesterday I warned him a year ago about the grid heater light being on is a warning for excessive fuel return from failing injectors. His truck barely made it back to town and parked it for now. Day before I talked to another gent with common rail with over 300k miles on the injectors and wonders why it running funny. Top it off his transmission is also fried need rebuilt. Got another one south of me I've been trying to get him to replace his injectors before damage occurs but he continues to drive the truck even though it's getting harder to start and the smoke quantity is increasing. I know a majority of these owners are looking back now towards the older generation like 1st and 2nd generation trucks. They still want a good diesel but don't want the high cost of injectors.

I've got a solution that is even better. This stuff makes the water bead up and blow off the glass. I typically find that I leave the wipers off more than actually run them. Even the smallest drops will roll right off the glass. Even in a good downpour most of the water blows off the glass at highway speeds.

Currently on the clock at 354k miles. Yeah, they lasted pretty darn long time.

I don't suggest that. This potentially can lead to overheating. I've actually had that happen this why I will not cover the face of the intercooler or the radiator. I will cover the grill this allows the fan to lock when needed to pull air through the intercooler and the radiator without any concern. Like my current weather starting to dip down to the 30's for the morning but can rise well into the 90's by afternoon. With a grill covers you can actually still drive with 80*F temps without any issues and not have to constantly remove and install the winter front because of fluke warm day. Typically I install my grill covers by October and leave them in all winter till April.

Bit over glorified for brand names really but the ideas are sound. The other thing is the knowledge we have here makes some of the suggestions obsolete. Like Edge Comp vs Quadzilla I would say Quadzilla would be a better tuner. Boost elbows typically come with the tuner. Then there is the one from China that @IBMobile found. Fuel supply that is a wide topic being you have AirDog, FASS and mechanical pumps now. 4" inch exhaust nothing to brag about like I ran 3" for years without any issues with EGT's. Gauges are just a good requirement to have. Injectors another wide topic to discuss depending on what you're after more MPG or Performance. Turbos another wide range of topic depending on the driver purpose of power will dictate what type of turbo to use. Cold Air Intakes another topic that is rather wide. Washable filters as poor as they are but then the claims of making the air colder doesn't seem to always pan out. Being I just found you can make IAT -10*F colder by changing your thermostat. Most of used the BHAF for years without little to no problem. Guys that live up here in the cold north are looking for a bit of warm air for the intake with temperatures down to -30*F. Hot Rod pumps LOL... At least just a hot rod pump on a stock truck produces a mere +21 HP. Most that are in the big power goal go for the P-pump more so. If you wanting big fuel for a VP44 there are the dragon fire pumps. Most can get at least 600 HP from just a plain old SO VP44 pump. Exhaust manifold most here will suggest sticking with the factory manifolds there are no gains really to the 3 piece ones.

The power connection in the trailer plug is the charge lead typically if the RV is hooked up. Even though that lead has a 40 Amp fuse it won't flow any more than the batteries will take. If the batteries need 5 amp that all they will take. The only way to increase this charge rate is to up the voltage the current will rise. Being the charging system is only going to provide 13.5 to 14.5 volts typically I really doubt there will be any serious gains to charge rate with 2/0 cables. Now for a winch and the heavy load and voltage loss in travel of the wire. Yeah, you might need heavier cable but even 2/0 seems to be overkill. Just checking the voltage loss with 2/0 cable at 25 feet with 160 amp load DC is 0.62 volts. From searching the internet they are saying on average 160 amp at full load for a 2,500 pound winch. Even at 2 AWG would only be 1.25 volt loss. Again I don't expect you to be running right to the margin of the winch.

All I use is just plain old engine oil. Still got my factory OEM cables and terminal and never had corrosion issues. I'll never use grease way too messy and attracts too much dirt. Engine oil you can rinse off with power washer but the oil film will continue to protect the terminals. Grease you.'ll end up on your arms and clothing.

WarEagle article was a pair of bar LEDs mounted near the grill so when the hood was opened the under hood switch turn on the power then the LEDs were already pointed at the engine. Would someone be willing to farm out a new article?

@War Eagle did a write up for LED under hood lighting. Sad the pictures are all gone. Photobucket policy change.

Personally I'm not a fan of slotted rotors. I would have the rotors checked for run out. I'm going to guess the rotors are deforming at the slots where there are the thinnest and weakest. Little heat and now the knocking starts. Changing rotors and pads are disturbing the problem to go away for a short time. If it is possible to get standard non slotted rotors I going to bet the problem will be gone.

I'm pretty sure it's a mercury switch.

Well, gang, I've been getting a rear end clank for some time typically as a released the clutch. Then the last trip to Ontario, OR I detected small vibration. I figured its just got to be a U-joint. While I was in Ontario, OR I picked up two U joints since not too long ago I did the post about changing the rearmost u-joint without dropping the driveshaft. Now after replacing the middle and forward u-joint I did find that both u-joints were in a serviceable condition somewhat. I did find the middle u-joint had roller bearing wear marks in the trunion and created just enough slack that I could detect the vibration. Sad but true I still had the clank. Now after checking again, I found the clank. The end links of the rear sway bar are starting to fail. The passenger side end link is actually loose and the driver side is OK but I can sense a bit of looseness on the driver side.

Not really. I would most likely say if the wipers are getting slow most likely the wiper motor is getting worn out.

Possible the sensor ground is shorted to sensor ground? Is there any APPS wiring mods? As for the P0123 code... Possible Causes 5-volt Supply At APPS Shorted To Voltage (Engine Running) APPS 5-volt Supply Circuit Shorted To Voltage APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To Voltage (Engine Running) APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To Voltage APPS Return Circuit Open APPS Signal Circuit Open From APPS To ECM APPS 5-volt Supply Circuit Open PCM (APPS) Circuit Shorted To Voltage With The Engine Running PCM (APPS) Short To Voltage With Ignition Key On APPS Open Between PCM And ECM Open APPS Circuit Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) Engine Control Module

I've thought about getting my CDL just to have but all the requirements now not worth it for me. Being Fire Dept is exempt from CDL license requirements I can drive anything I wish. I've had good track record with the Fire Dept and still to this day no accidents. I've taken 4,000-gallon water tender places it really shouldn't be. Trust me you can grow a set of teeth in that hind end really fast on a mountain dirt road.

Might want to PM @IBMobile he's got an idea on grid heater control switch without tossing errors and allowed you to control of your grid heater.

Time to replace the APPS sensor. Make sure to get a Timbo's APPS and don't try to adjust the voltage. This could be what you've done with voltage adjustment.

That top adjustment you don't mess with. The up / down adjustment is on the bottom near the bumper. The one in the close up blur is the left to right adjustment.

The problem... 99% of people panic at highway speed and grab the brakes when a tire blows. The proper thing to do is to apply throttle to stabilize the direction before slowing down. Take notice in this video you can clearly see the tire blowout and the driver automatically stomped the breaks and the truck went right into the ditch just like the previous video showed. As he stomped the brakes the new direction was created and the truck went right into the ditch and rolled over killing the driver.

Is exhaust brake sticking shut partially?

As much is it nice to be able to jump on interstate and roll 75 to 85 MPH I think that this sure be revisited by the NTSB and consider dropping these speed limits back down. When you have 80,000-pound truck having a sudden failure on a steer axle there isn't much margin for an 80,000-pound truck and driver to make good choices and keeping people safe. Trust me I understand the feeling of an 80,000-pound truck I drive water tender for my local fire dept. That truck is at its margins for weight as is. Once you get that much weight rolling it takes some time to stop all that moving mass. I don't care how good you think you are of a driver or how good your truck is still the laws of physics kick in and you can only stop so fast. Faster you travel the longer it takes to stops.

Go to a dark street or road. Now cover one headlight with blanket or jacket. Now the screw in the upper corners towards the radiator is left to right. The screw down at the bumper is up and down. Now adjust the headlight on low beam.

That's my worry with 180F thermostat. The EGTs are much lower idling in 35F weather. Engine temp sank to 177F I would be concerned with tar issues on the valves in the dead of winter.