Mopar1973Man

Heck I've never gotten that high yet even idling in parking lot for 3 hours with 110F outside temps. No airflow around the fuel tank.

Don't do it. It will cause seal failure. Our system are designed for power steering fluid. 3rd gens are a Ford steering box and requires ATF.

Lets say it really rare for anyone to trip the P0168 code for high fuel temp. I can't remember the temp that trips the code. Lets say the highest I've seen is right at 140F. Winter time ill have to watch and see.

If you look at your IAT sensor. Now just forward of it is a 1/2 NPT pipe plug in the block. That is a coolant passage. The intake manifold is heated with coolant and that heat is conducted into the stock filter housing. This was designed to reduce the time on the electric fuel heater. Once the coolant temp came up it would aid in fuel temps in the winter. Hence way the IAT and fuel temp run close together. If you really wanted to cool things down I'm going to bet a 180F thermostat would do the trick. I might just experiment with that.

After loading with fuel 26 gallons the fuel temp dropped to 110F and slowly worked its way back up to close to IAT temp. I do know a secret to that...

EV2 is programmable to set you warning light then you can program an accessory relay as well. Then they lighting is programmable so you can match it to you dash lighting level. The reaction speed of the gauge needle is programmable too. I got the EV2 to prove I could setup a electric gauge properly without failure. Yes I've got both needle valve and snubber. The air brake line is 5 foot long give good distance for water hammer pulses. The valve is just to close the line in case of failure.

Be aware the forced on mode might have an issue. Being the hi and lo pressure switches are now locked out. It would be possible to operate the compressor beyond the lo point and freeze up the evaporator or possibly operate above safe 450 PSI limit which is no explosion issue. Now if it was force on using the dash wiring now the pressure switches would be in the loop.

What is returned to the tank. What the temperature at least from the VP44. Remember the head is going to be 190-200*F. Take notice to the IAT and fuel temp they typically run close to each other all the time. Make it interesting today... Ran it to the point of seeing the low fuel light and 1/8 of tank.

The only difference between my mayo jar and this is the pressure is external to the system vs the master cylinder doing all the pressure work no difference though. Hook up the mayo jar, crack the bleeder, jump in the seat and pump the pedal. The vinyl tubing in the jar the tip is submerged in the fluid so it's not possible to draw back up the air and this can be done by a single person.

I'm hoping to jump into this task by Sunday and get mine done. I need to get the Cummins rolling.

310 bar is stock...

That's what your Buddy @JAG1 though about putting JAG1 and VP44 injection pump together. He made it through and got the injection pump installed. I'm sure we can guide you through the wiring just as well.

Compressor modes - MAX A/C, A/C, BiLevel, Floor-DEF and DEF. No Compressor modes - Vent or Floor. Outside air - All other Modes except MAX A/C. Recir Air - Only MAX A/C.

Think about it the head is heated to 190*F with coolant temperature. Now all the fuel bleed back out of the return ports on the injectors are running along the head to the rear of the engine being heated by 190*F temperature head. Then dump in the return line headed for the fuel tank. Now everyone went to returning fuel to the fuel basket. Now your dumping this heated fuel to the sender basket is its the first thing picked up from the basket is this superheated fuel. Now like my setup for long ago 13 year old first generation draw straw I keep fuel temps way lower being my return fuel is way away from the draw straw. No sump, no drawing from a basket, etc.

You need 14 to 20 PSI would rolling down the highway at WOT.

Lik this... This is a Vulcan Big Line Kit and kept my stock fuel filter with my AirDog 150. This way I'm double filtering the fuel. I also get to keep my fuel heater for winter time. Then my WIF light still functions like designed. The Big line kit allows for my fuel pressure gauge to be hooked up. Which my electric sensor is NOT on the VP44 it actually on the fender for a few different reasons. Water hammer, test location is easier, etc.

Only two things with an auto reset breaker. Electric seat and electric windows. Blend door on our truck is a stepper motor on the passenger side foot well that twist the blend door between cold (blocking off the heater core) or full hot (push all the air through the heater core). In this picture you can see the blend door in the full cold position. Look closely you can see how the door swing counter clockwise and the flap would direct the air toward the heater core.

The biggest thing in the future is keeping the truck washed down. Get the mud off the underside of the truck it will keep moisture (and road salt when applicable) to the frame and part and rot things faster.

What @IBMobile suggests is a way to have A/C compressor in any position or being able to shut off the A/C compressor in all positions then the 3rd position follows factory setup. That would be kind of cool to have. That is a problem I've never liked about Dodge HVAC setups the early 2nds allowed for that but later 2nd gen's when back to the old school setup. Now if we had a way to control recirc or fresh air door but that is a vacuum control.

Hence why he's got a second wiring loom and still has taken the time to install the new loom.

I bet money the armature brushes are too short (at least 1 is not making contact).I've got an OEM starter here with that exact problem.

I do something much easier. Mayo jar and a piece of vinyl tubing. Worked for years nothing fancy but it gets the job done without the price tag.

Oil is driven with Freon throughout the system so yes excessive oil can cause issues too typically blowing out the back of the compressor through the blow off valve.

High side after the condenser along the fender the entire tube from the evaporator to the condenser is the orifice tube.

Even a properly cut straw will such the tank dry. 13 years and still no issues. Just plain old draw straw no basket or anything.