Mopar1973Man

I'll let you know. I've also got an exhaust brake as well I'm gearing up to start down this project being I've got a set of standard valve seals.

235/85 R16 is the same as 265/75 R16 (31.6 Inches) 215/85 R16 is the same as 245/75 R16 (30.5 inches)

You only need the 75w-140 and friction modifier if you have limited slip rear end. If you have the standard open differential like myself then you want standard 80w-90 gear lube and on friction modifier. Axles should be changed every 30k miles or if the fluid is darken.

Bluetop is vendor on the site you might hop over to his forum and get his phone number and order a kit.

Don't use it. This adjustment most pedal over adjust the pedal and hyper extend the throw out bearing past the fingers of the pressure plate. It not required. I'm still running stock hydro yet with my south bend.

Got to change the hydro boost and power steering pump neither are rated for ATF. It will ruin the seals. 4th gen is ATF system ours is a power steering fluid.

Yes sir... https://mopar1973man.com/forum/149-diesel-auto-power/

Discovery AT3 215/85 R16 on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. I'll admit, boy they look skinny. Just even that little bit of size change improved this little 5.9L V8 gas engine. Even the transmission shifts better. This little truck weighs in at about 5,500 pounds roughly rarely tows anything anymore. most of its time on the highway. Rare to be offroad.

Most likely using different pins out of the module. So the different harness most likely using a different pin for early and late series. Like Quadzilla has a jump that you change for either early or late.

More or less yes. The bigger the ratio number is to the ground the more torque and power you can produce to the ground. I wouldn't go any lower than 4.10 as a to the ground ratio. But your example of 285's and 4.10 gears would be just the same. The only loss you have now is you stand taller in the wind so high speed wind drag is your weakness. If you keep you speeds down your losses will be reduced.

Similar tuning where there is a steep fuel curve I'm capable of rolling highway speeds to build boost very rapidly and have the axle wrap up under the truck and the tires let go.

Like @Me78569 said it the voltage values that are different. Pins are not the problem. Really common back in the day for people to buy a used Edge Comp or Edge Juice (early) and start cutting plugs off and attempting to wire in the early MAP plug. The voltage values are so bad that the tuner doesn't work like it was design because all the feedback data is incorrect. This is why I agree with @Me78569 and would rather see you buy the right series for your truck than hack the plugs into place.

Won't work. Because of the voltage differences. You'll have to get the right unit for that style of MAP sensor.

I've got a set of 215's in the back of my Cummins right now brand NEW! I'll post up really soon today.

Sorry to say DOR has had that issue for a long time.

Just wait till you see 215's.

Check for AC noise issues from the alternator? Being that the ECM uses the tach signal for different things and if the alternator is polluting the tach signal with alternator AC noise it can impact the performance of the truck. Doesn't happen. Now if your running a Quadzilla tuner yes this would be true stock ECM no. There are no real fuel limits on a Stock ECM for warm up. Remember I see temps down to -20*F for winter it still runs strong even on a cold start.

I remember long ago over on CF a guy managed to make a crankcase vent that kept a mild vacuum on the crankcase using the exhaust system and a check valve. Basically, in a nutshell, the exhaust was set up with a venturi style Y fitting with a check valve. The flowing exhaust would create a mild vacuum and draw the vapor out into the exhaust stream. He basically had nothing that dripped on the floor and supposed to run faster because the mild vacuum allows pistons to swing easier with no crankcase pressure. That's the theory...

Same here I get about a drop or so on the garage floor. I've considered buy a 12V tappet cover and replacing the 24V with it and then capping off the stock vent and using just the 12V vent.

Now we can start seeing all the cool 4th gen articles coming next. Like all the great little problems with the DEF and Urea tank.

The ones with the yellow pull tabs. The fuse will pull from the socket but not fall out. The system is now disconnected. Like the IOD fuse and I think maybe 1 or 2 more in the panel.

Basically, the engine can stop rather abruptly but the accessories like the alternator, water pump and fan don't so the usually squeak as the device slips a bit.

Like myself, I'm the odd duck here with an AirDog 150 went 13 years on the first pump and just replaced the pump head for the first time and still going running towards 300k miles on the AirDog 150 and got 353k miles on the truck.

Anyone replace the APPS with a Timbo's? Did anyone test the wiring between the APPS and the ECM? Anyone do an AC noise test of the alternator?

Finally to the end of the thread. You got your new truck.