Mopar1973Man

First off I typically hook up my manifold gauge and see what the static pressure is. If there is no pressure in the system then you need to start looking for leaks. Typically I would put a shot of UV dye in the system and recharge just enough to get the compressor to run. This will push the dye around the system and hopefully push it out the leak. Now using black light look over the entire system for the green dye. If the system has some pressure in it but not enough to start the compressor (<35 PSI) then I typically recharge and give a shot of UV dye. Then let the vehicle go for a day or two and then ask the person to return. I hope in a few days the green dye pushes out and show the point of the leak. Once the leak is repaired either typically bad o-rings or bad condenser. Then I typically test one more time by placing a vacuum on the system and seeing if it can hold the vacuum. My little 1/3 HP pump can typically pull 28inHg of vacuum. Wait for extended period. An hour would be optimal. Now check and see if you still have the exact amount of vacuum. If not them you've got another leak to go find. Now that we are sure there are no leaks then I would pull the vacuum. This ensures there is no moisture in the system. Now typically the system hold 3 can (rounding up). At that point I add the 3 can as a GAS (not a liquid). Never flip the can upside down where liquid can be discharged on the suction side this can hydro-lock the compressor and cause damage if not an explosion. I always charge A/C system on the lo side as a GAS. Now for typical Dodge Ram I would charge till there was at least 35 PSI on the lo side. Typically the high side can run about 225 to 275 PSI but this depends on the outside temperature and if the fan is partially locked or not. After I've got the 35 PSI and the compressor is staying locked I will up the RPM's to about 1,500 to 1,800 and see if the compressor unlocks. If so I typically add a bit more freon to prevent cycling of the clutch which is bad. The compressor should not cycle when charged properly. If you already got the 3 cans in the system I stop. Overloading will actually degrade performance and make it run warmer on the discharge temp on the vents.

Yeah the can be pop tested but most likely the nozzle and little are worn so replace is the typical solution. Most of us buy injectors from DAP or Diesel Auto Power. I'm getting ready to replace my 7 x 0.0085 injectors with a fresh set. This set I'm going for 310 to 315 bar pop pressure. Common MPG Better is the RV275 injector. The other half of the MPG is having a tuner to advance timing. Stock tune is rather retarded in timing

OMG... LMAO... Really? I guess my email woke you back up eh?

Welcome back @Rogan. Nice to see you back on the site. I'm glad you got you clutch problem fixed.

I was replacing alternators every 3 months last year. Just because the last owner replaced it doesn't mean it working correctly. I've found 2 alternators in the box that failed on the test stand...

Valve lash might be too tight or lose double check that. It can cause lopey idle. Then I would replace the injectors. After about 100k miles the injectors start losing pop pressure and spray gets rather crappy. 14 MPG in town is low. I typically can hit at least 18-22 MPG in town. I would look into the injectors and replace them.

Now that I've learned more I'm going to have to update that tune. Also as soon as I can get fresh injectors. (310 to 315 bar).

Should be ground center of dash you may find through the stereo hole. Then the other is at the driver side kick panel. There is most likely ground the runs out to PDC then out to the fender but check the master plug in PDC.

Simple ditch the tires or change ring and pinion gears. EGT problem goes away. Right now with my setup I can be hitch up grossing 17k to 18k pounds put my Quadzilla on level 3 and mash my throttle to the floor with 7 x 0.0085 injectors and HX35/40 turbo and never reach 1,200*F. I'm also running 31" tires now but soon to drop to 30" tires (245/75 R16) which drops another 100*F off the EGT's and increases torque to the ground.

Remember to pull the field lead too. The AC noise will continue to be produced and jump into the positive to the ground wire headed for the ECM. Alternator charge lead on top and the ECM and VP44 ground on the bottom.

Might want to talk to our website transmission guru @Dynamic ...

The bypass valve part is a bit bigger and tapered slightly for a good seal. They really did change the design quite a bit.

I've seen something similar. The answer is that a crossover tube is loose. What happens is the crossover tube is sealing cold the metals are all tight. Now as you drive and the head warms up and expands the crossover tube starts to loosen. Between the injector and the crossover tube so the rail pressure starts to bleed off in the return rail. No visible leak can be seen. What I did was tighten down the crossover tubes and the problem disappeared. This can be detected by an OBDII live data tool because the rail pressure fades as you drive. It will not restart till the the block cools off.

Test for excessive AC noise from the alternator. Bad APPS will typically throw a P0121, P0122 or P0123 code. What your talking about sounds like AC noise from the alternator adding noise to the Rach signal creating throttle issues. I have the AC noise test in the articles in transmission section. Typically this shows as torque converter issue on autos. On manuals its just like you said.

Actually I just seat the filter cap nothing more.

I've alerted the Source Resource gang... Hopefully someone can give you a hand...

The one on the left was the old school NAPA I use to get all the time. Now the one on the right is what the new NAPA thermostats look like now.

Do a bit of study work on your gearing it will impact everything about the truck. Optimal gear ratio for the street would be a 3.73 to the ground. Highway running or interstate you're going to want a final ratio of 3.55 to keep the RPM's down. Below this is too tall of a gear ratio. If you going to invest the big money on gears you better of figure out exactly what you going to want.

Then that lid is tightened too darn tight you going to have to force or break it. Then you'll have to replace it. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ram-cummins-fuel-filter-cap-with-fuel-pressure-test-port-lt-59fuelcap/fuel-system-accessories-replacement-parts https://www.genosgarage.com/product/drm904301/fuel-caps

It a complete tool like the Mopar DRBIII tool. Just it works off the CANBus and not the OBDII port.

Need to know some things... Fuel pressure - Idle, cruising at highway and WOT at highway. AC voltage from the alternator Use a 6 sided socket this won't happen. 12 sided sockets tend to only grab the outer points.

Yeah, I know it... Gotta to stay within the budget...

0 = Stock ECM 1 = Valet Mode 2 = Zero to 100% CANBus fuel 3 = Full CANBus 4 through 11... Depending on the tune set up this just divides the wiretap up. So if the default tune is set with 15 levels then that means each level 4 and up is 10% of the wiretap. Like I'm running 8 levels. So each level in my tune is just 25% of wiretap each step.

Basically you have to verify your wiring. Then you might have to verify the ECM. If you can get Cummins Insite you might be able to read the errors on the CANBus.

I think its time to consider rebuilding the UI / UX for the iQuad app again. There is a minor issue like this. How about the Eq Sliders. You're trying to see where the slider land in the green or red zone but you can't see that because the slider is right over the break of the red and green. The trip reset should be just a button, not an on/off switch. iQuad app should remember your last screen position instead of panning to it every time. Might be time for a bit of software tweaking on the iQuad app.