Mopar1973Man

Now you can run larger tires to bring down your ratio...

Quote function there are 3 ways. 1. Just hit the quote button on the post you want to quote. 2. Select the text you want to quote. Pause a second there should be a "Quote Selection" balloon show up. Click on it. 3. Hit the " (Quote tool) and it will create an empty quote box which you can copy and paste text into.

Just go down to the dealer have your wife blindfold you and pick one. Geez...

No. Stock head bolts.

your saying they will rise quickly while locked? Unlocked. Now the transmission is fluid coupled and fluid thrashing occurs.

If OD OFF is lit. Then it should shift to 3rd gear and lock up. If it's not lit and you driving with enough TV cable pull it will hold 3rd gear unlocked. You'll notice transmission temperatures rise fairly quickly. My 46RE in my 1/2 to does this. When I notice the hang and not up shifting I'll just hit the OD OFF and get the torque converter to lock in 3rd.

Actually applies to me. Worse yet some poor slob just hit an Elk about a week ago. Then you get into the backcountry like going towards Burgdorf, ID or Yellow Pine, ID you might just get your shot at hitting a Moose. I've been hoping to find something like a Buckstop but in a aluminum but I know that will cost a pretty penny. Since I don't have those kinds of funds I've just learn how to look for signs and drive cautiously.

Not exactly your set up but for info... HX35/40 Hybrid turbo (60/60/12), DAP 7 x 0.0085 injectors, Quadzilla Tuner, on my performance tune I'm hitting 45 PSI of boost and the rear tires comes loose in 4th gear (1:1 Direct). Spools pretty darn fast once the turbo lights up.

Lumbar adjustment. Most likely the compressor or vent valve. Up should run a small compressor pumping up the bladder in the lumbar area. Then the down should vent that back off deflating.

Neither are hard. Resistor is 2 screws and it drops out the bottom on the passenger side foot well.

Did you change the turbo specs? HX35W to something else?

Don't know. I'm on virgin ground learning how to do valve seals now. I just know I got to keep more oil in the pan and less from leaking out into the cylinder or on the ground. I know ultimately it would be best to rebuild the engine but I just gotta keep this old beast rolling.

Too many are after the Cool Factor. I'm after the performance factor. It might not look cool but it sure does scream down the pavement good!

Hua?

SPST (single pole single throw) switch have no right way per say. Either way when the switch is OFF the connection is BROKEN between the wires. When the switch is ON the two wires are connected together. It when you get to SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) Now there is a bit more to worry about being there is a way to hook up and never get a connection.

That should work just fine.

Funny this thread should start. I'm getting geared up for doing valve seals here really soon. I've got the spring compressor and the seals. I just need to get my 1/2 ton up and running with fresh tires and then I can condemn the Cummins for a week or so to get the valve seals done. In the mean time, I'm still listening to Helicopters buzzing back and forth over the house.

Did you look at the evaporator with a mirror and see how much junk is collected?

It also could be a bad wiper motor. I've had that happen on both my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon and my 1973 Dodge Charger. There is a reed switch in the motor that detects for park position and if the read is broken or damaged then the wipers shut off on the glass like you describe. The wiper relay is just a trigger pulse to get the wipers to cycle on command. So you can try swapping relays with another device. I'm figuring that its going to be the wiper motor.

Wow. The ceramic didn't crack. The legs are oxidized. I'm betting the problem is in the core of the ceramic which is a wire wound resistor.

Let double check for sure. I've got in my console and I'll check it tomorrow on the trip down. I'll also grab my OBDLink LX and check as well.

Strange but true, like I said as the bearings give up the current flow starts to heat up the resistor. When the resistor fails you can bet the blower is just as damaged. So would you be will to post a pic of the resistor?

Hmmm... Something isn't right then. Always -1 MPH even to what is reported on OBDII port tools. (Chris O's CCD Network tool)

Just remember... NV5600 6th gear -> 0.73 - 0.75 <- NV4500 5th Gear NV5600 5th Gear -> 1:1 -- 1:1 <- NV4500 4th Gear No longer an issue with 245's. I'm typically in 4th gear (1:1 direct) on NV4500 by about 30 MPH. You can cruise 30 MPH at 1,200 RPM's. With my NV4500 in 5th, 3.55 rear end gears and 245's on for tires I'm 200 RPM's lower at 2,400 at 80 MPH. I seriously wonder if your rear axle is a different ratio.

Already done that but still incorrect value between the GPS and the dash gauge the Quadzilla is always -1 MPH off. Dash will show 65 MPH with the GPS at 65 MPH but the Quadzilla shows 64 MPH.