Mopar1973Man

OMG... LMAO... Really? I guess my email woke you back up eh?

Welcome back @Rogan. Nice to see you back on the site. I'm glad you got you clutch problem fixed.

I was replacing alternators every 3 months last year. Just because the last owner replaced it doesn't mean it working correctly. I've found 2 alternators in the box that failed on the test stand...

Valve lash might be too tight or lose double check that. It can cause lopey idle. Then I would replace the injectors. After about 100k miles the injectors start losing pop pressure and spray gets rather crappy. 14 MPG in town is low. I typically can hit at least 18-22 MPG in town. I would look into the injectors and replace them.

Now that I've learned more I'm going to have to update that tune. Also as soon as I can get fresh injectors. (310 to 315 bar).

Should be ground center of dash you may find through the stereo hole. Then the other is at the driver side kick panel. There is most likely ground the runs out to PDC then out to the fender but check the master plug in PDC.

Simple ditch the tires or change ring and pinion gears. EGT problem goes away. Right now with my setup I can be hitch up grossing 17k to 18k pounds put my Quadzilla on level 3 and mash my throttle to the floor with 7 x 0.0085 injectors and HX35/40 turbo and never reach 1,200*F. I'm also running 31" tires now but soon to drop to 30" tires (245/75 R16) which drops another 100*F off the EGT's and increases torque to the ground.

Remember to pull the field lead too. The AC noise will continue to be produced and jump into the positive to the ground wire headed for the ECM. Alternator charge lead on top and the ECM and VP44 ground on the bottom.

Might want to talk to our website transmission guru @Dynamic ...

The bypass valve part is a bit bigger and tapered slightly for a good seal. They really did change the design quite a bit.

I've seen something similar. The answer is that a crossover tube is loose. What happens is the crossover tube is sealing cold the metals are all tight. Now as you drive and the head warms up and expands the crossover tube starts to loosen. Between the injector and the crossover tube so the rail pressure starts to bleed off in the return rail. No visible leak can be seen. What I did was tighten down the crossover tubes and the problem disappeared. This can be detected by an OBDII live data tool because the rail pressure fades as you drive. It will not restart till the the block cools off.

Test for excessive AC noise from the alternator. Bad APPS will typically throw a P0121, P0122 or P0123 code. What your talking about sounds like AC noise from the alternator adding noise to the Rach signal creating throttle issues. I have the AC noise test in the articles in transmission section. Typically this shows as torque converter issue on autos. On manuals its just like you said.

Actually I just seat the filter cap nothing more.

I've alerted the Source Resource gang... Hopefully someone can give you a hand...

The one on the left was the old school NAPA I use to get all the time. Now the one on the right is what the new NAPA thermostats look like now.

Do a bit of study work on your gearing it will impact everything about the truck. Optimal gear ratio for the street would be a 3.73 to the ground. Highway running or interstate you're going to want a final ratio of 3.55 to keep the RPM's down. Below this is too tall of a gear ratio. If you going to invest the big money on gears you better of figure out exactly what you going to want.

Then that lid is tightened too darn tight you going to have to force or break it. Then you'll have to replace it. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ram-cummins-fuel-filter-cap-with-fuel-pressure-test-port-lt-59fuelcap/fuel-system-accessories-replacement-parts https://www.genosgarage.com/product/drm904301/fuel-caps

It a complete tool like the Mopar DRBIII tool. Just it works off the CANBus and not the OBDII port.

Need to know some things... Fuel pressure - Idle, cruising at highway and WOT at highway. AC voltage from the alternator Use a 6 sided socket this won't happen. 12 sided sockets tend to only grab the outer points.

Yeah, I know it... Gotta to stay within the budget...

0 = Stock ECM 1 = Valet Mode 2 = Zero to 100% CANBus fuel 3 = Full CANBus 4 through 11... Depending on the tune set up this just divides the wiretap up. So if the default tune is set with 15 levels then that means each level 4 and up is 10% of the wiretap. Like I'm running 8 levels. So each level in my tune is just 25% of wiretap each step.

Basically you have to verify your wiring. Then you might have to verify the ECM. If you can get Cummins Insite you might be able to read the errors on the CANBus.

I think its time to consider rebuilding the UI / UX for the iQuad app again. There is a minor issue like this. How about the Eq Sliders. You're trying to see where the slider land in the green or red zone but you can't see that because the slider is right over the break of the red and green. The trip reset should be just a button, not an on/off switch. iQuad app should remember your last screen position instead of panning to it every time. Might be time for a bit of software tweaking on the iQuad app.

CCD Network is where you typically read error codes from the ECM. Take note there is the plugs on the cowl that hook the ECM to the PCM. Then there is the master plug in the PDC that has the CCD network into the cab.

If so still verify the alternator again then do the W-T ground mod. That ground is at the driver side kick panel most likely. Disconnect both end and measure ohm from end to end of each wire with both ends disconnected. This should show 0 ohms.