Mopar1973Man

I've got a suction cup Garmin GPS and hate that dang thing it falls off the glass quite often. I've got it tucked quite low on the glass so it's not noticed by law enforcement.

Another thing to be aware of... Just be aware of the suction cup laws for windshield mounting. Make sure there is other options for mounting the screen. https://blog.proclipusa.com/suction-cup-windshield-mounts/ States in Which Suction Cup Windshield Mounts Are Illegal Alabama Colorado Connecticut Delaware Georgia Idaho Illinois Louisiana Maine Montana Nebraska New Jersey New Mexico New York North Dakota Oklahoma Oregon Virginia Washington Washington, D.C. West Virginia

Looking closely at the body lines the look about right the illusion appears to be the skirt being crush slightly along the bottom edge of the bed that makes it look that way.

Now you might want to look into doing the @W-T ground wire mod to protect your ECM from future damage.

Like an old TDR article... Designed at the time of the release of CJ-4 oils. TDR57_Oil.pdf Then if you ask @cajflynn about oil changes on his 1.3 MILLION mile truck 2001 Dodge he was doing 20k oil changes. Hauling heavy boats. Then ask @dorkweed about his 84k oil change on nothing more than WalMart SuperTech 15w-40. There more to it with the filters he was running at the time and Blackstone testing. This is why I tend to disregard the short Schedule "B" because so few people actually fit that short change interval. Every winter here drops to -30*F at least. Every time I get to Ontario OR is nothing but stop and go driving. I've been known to idle the engine up to 3 hours with heat or A/C on to keep comfortable. I'm not going to fry or freeze. Every time I leave the pavement is a dirt road. Heck, my driveway is a dirt road. EXCLUDED - all my trips are over 100 miles typically. Typically I can put down 250-300 miles per day. Then every time I was on the interstate (85 MPH) heading to Boise, ID this summer. temps in the 105 to 110 realm. Just towed my RV trailer to Ontario last week. I work for the local fire dept so every time I get a page I can and have jumped in the seat and ran. No warm up. (Rattlesnake fire, ID) Every time I go get firewood and down in the southern Idaho area is nothing but desert. I'm still not going to change oil every 3,750k. So looking at @cajflynn that was doing hotshot work and hauling heavy boats should been changing oil every 3 to 4 days then. Myself I would be changing oil every 12 days that would increase the cost operation considerably. So in one year I would have to change 17 times vs 8 times on the Schedule A

@MoparMom said to tell you Dave that she is not getting up for something that ugly. As for me... I'm nearly done with my 2nd cup of liquid jump starting.

Very few people fit the schedule"B" realm.

Basically, the solenoid is internally shorted out. You'll have to replace it.

I would have the ECM rebuilt. Is that Raptor on a relay? Or is it a DDRP Raptor?

Way too early. Right out of the owners manual is 7.5k miles. Even my 1996 Dodge 1500 is 6k miles on an oil change.

There is two parts to the solenoid. There is pull and hold. Now with the key on will it hold the fuel arm up? Check the risible links at the battery common to burn them.

Friends don't let friends play with Ford products without the proper safety equipment. At least no one will know it's you driving the Ford...

Now there is an idea. In a shaded area just keep applying CLR to the nozzle till it starts to flow. Just maybe you can do it without pulling the nozzle.

All I got to say is make it bigger than the Smarty Touch screen. That thing is smaller than my LG G5 screen now. I don't want to squint to see the gauges. Remember us old farts out here with crappy eyesight and needing bifocals.

@IBMobile Dirty rat you still have that photo...

...

Ummm... I was born and raised in Los Angeles, CA. Didn't leave there until I was 20 years old. Now I'm 48 this year. Now I'm just another crazy Idaho redneck. I left California for that reason. Crazy libtards.

You've got it... Jack up the frame and let the axle hang free. You might have to adjust the axle height with a floor jack a bit to align the bolt again. I've done control arm replacements but typically I do it one control arm at a time.

OMG I was laughing my for that one...

Better??? Flipped horizontally... Mirrored... Now in the passenger seat or you think I am...

I'm surprise they (EPA) are so picky that an air horn has to be factory... OMG. EPA needs to calm down...

I'm still on the bet it the rotor are either cracked in the slots and deforming as they heat up causing the knocking noise. Again you'll have to pull the rotors and have them check for runout and cracks. Even if the runout is good you could still have a crack that only deforms with braking heat causing the knocking noise. You could have him send a set of rotors but being slotted they will most likely do the same thing again.

Kind of like the 2005 Dodge 3500 I was supposed to finish out but end up with Moparmom's medical issues. That truck the owner had a bad injector(s) heard it knocking and continued to drive it home. Next morning it wouldn't start he had clearly wiped out at least 1 or 2 cylinders. Just barely crossed 112k on the clock original mileage POOF! Ate the engine for at least 5k worth of damage. Needed to cylinders sleeved then at that point might as well rebuild the entire engine. Then plus the injectors on top of the 5k. Ughh... Sad I had to have him tow it out of here being I'm taking care of MoparMom dialysis treatments.

Actually driver seat. (Strange flip of the picture) When it's over 90*F outside you park in the sun trapped with the truck running so you have A/C and trying to work the website from the center console and smack out replies isn't exactly comfortable. Now I'm at home and comfortable in my big chair and normal keyboard and mouse. Back to @KATOOM As for the power steering system, I don't see any problem with doing a filter just remember this will need to be changed with the fluid every 30k miles. As for the drain plug if there was a way to drill and tap a plug in would be awesome it sure would make short work of drain, flush and fill. All I can say is the 30k mark worked out good for my steering box it was spotless inside no sludge and no serious wear at all just the input seal failed from rust particles. Kind of like my next problem of getting reservoir seal for my power steering pump. Rubber is starting to degrade... Ugh!

From my past experience... I did the stock headlights plus four 100w aircraft landing lights. This worked for a while till the aircraft landing lights gone up in price and the lifespan went down to about 6 to 9 month and your buying all 4 bulbs again. So at $22 a bulb that $88 bucks a set or $176 worth per year. Then I did the sport headlights with the relay mod. That didn't last a year. The light pattern sucked bad. Even with the Aircraft lights backing them up it still sucked. The pattern wasn't where it needed to be. The secondary bulbs basically where a thin vertical band of light. Didn't add much to the high at all. The main bulb was OK but the pattern was scattered badly. Then I upgraded to the Morimoto's. During the time of the ordering, I talk to the gent at Retro Shop and ask him the differences between bulbs, lens, etc. When I had mine done I had the upgraded D2S lens used. Now those put out serious light. I'm at least 20 foot out from the edges of the highway so the ditch line is lit up good on both sides. On high beam the beam is capable of reaching 50 feet tall in the distance. The Morimoto has an absolute cut off shutter so you are not blinding oncoming traffic. Still at this point I had the aircraft lights... Finally started losing bulbs on the driving lights. Instead of dropping another $88 buck for 6 months of light I jump to the PIAA LED driving lights. Now, these things are bad . They are actually brighter than the Morimoto HID's. The light is so bright on a snow-covered road you need to turn them off. The wicked part is they are just a mere 18w load... Tiny compared to even stock 55w halogens. Might be a lot of money but... No longer am I shelling out dollars trying to fix these weak headlights with another mod or weak idea. If I totaled up all the money spent on aircraft landing bulbs, sport headlights, the custom-made relay mod, etc. I could have paid off the whole thing if I did it first thing. Yeah, I could of saved some money on shipping standard freight and if I wimped out and had the H! mini lens used. Then I would have been down to about $800.