Mopar1973Man

Being I'm still doing roughly 60k miles a year I'm sure I can.

I've got to get my VirtualBox fired back up again.

High timing should only be used for low cetane / cold weather. I've had to retard quite a bit as the temperatures here have started rising. The IAT temperatures are higher so the fuel ignites easy and so you don't need the timing on a hot day. My problem is my early morning startup might be 48-52*F and IAT to match for several miles. Then it gradually rises over the day then by 11am when I get down in the high desert of Ontario it now getting up to 130*F worth of IAT now I find myself changing the tune and dropping about 1-2 degree total across all the EQ sliders.

Like another thing I'm finding out is that you need to consider the IAT temperature in your tune. Being I've got wild swings in temperature starting as low as 48-52*F IAT as I roll out in the morning through the canyon. Then by the time I'm returning home I could be as high as 125 to 130*F IAT and find myself moving all the bands of timing up and down to keep a sweet spot. Cooler mornings you can run more timing by the heat of the day you need to retard this some. With the smaller tires, the EGT's have been low. Engine load is low too like around 15-19% at 60 MPH on my last trip home. Also going to split up the tunes again.

Nope... Single HX35/40 Hybrid. +75 HP injectors (7x0.0085). A matter of fact I'm splitting my tune out to reach for more. I've been trying to keep all in one tune which is not possible really. Light load requires different timing than WOT or racing. Not to mention I was attempting to build a fuel map one size fit all. Nope doesn't work, some conditions give smoke most others don't smoke.

I've gathered up the tidbit I needed to do my truck. The 5mm bolt that @W-T list is absolutely correct it fits like its meant to. So its just a matter of me cutting the loom open and getting this done.

Remember that pose a safety issue. If the ignition is on and the electric pump is running and you have an accident that pump can potentially fuel a fire because there is no shutdown signal like the ECM does. The ECM watches the tach signal soon as it drops (accident) then the lift pump is turned off for safety.

I just made a run at 80 MPH down a short blast of the interstate. 245's on the rear yet. In 5th gear at 80 MPH it's turning 2,400 RPM. not bad yet you can safely blow down the interstate at 70 MPH and still but reasonable like 2200 RPM (IIRC). I know previously 70 MPH was a touch over 2,100 RPM. @dripley Basically the RPM difference if you drive 5 MPH faster that is what you new RPM will be. So if you want to see 70 MPH on 245's drive 75 MPH that is your RPM at 70 MPH on 245's.

@IBMobile has a killer converter lock up controller (mystery switch).

I'll say that truck held up good for hitting a moose and then rolling. I'm glad both of you are ok as well. One of the few reasons I've not given up on my truck for an economy car.

I'm happy with the fact the 65 MPH RPM is 1960 on the tach. Now that I've taught myself to leave the transmission in high gear I find that majority of my travel now I can do in top gear empty. I plan on hauling my RV back on Thursday so I'll get a good test run on that.

Lets say. I'm already planning on running 245s on the Cummins then 215s on the 1/2 ton. Really like the performance. Just about mustered 21 MPG on the last tank. Plan on towing the RV home on Thursday. So ill get some tow experience.

Typically no because even if the APPS gets out of range it will throw a P0122 or P0123 code and dead pedal completely. This can be check by monitoring the TPS on a live data OBDII tool. Limited pedal is a different creature. Basically, you have some throttle but you never are able to exceed a level of engine load. For example WOT (100% TPS) only produces 60% engine load tops. Where dead pedal produces 0% engine load during the event. (TPS either 0% or 100%) Both values can be monitored at the same time engine load and TPS values.

The one I typically talk to is Peter at South Bend.

Sometimes it just a matter of thousands of an inch or even tenths of an inch to making parts fit right. I agree with the guys ask Southbend why I'm sure they will tell you.

If the PSG is damaged usually you'll have a P025x code or P1688, P1689. Once anything gets out a range just slightly the code is instantly tripped. If there is any electronics fault on the PSG typically the code is thrown. Myth. My last VP44 ran 243k miles with both an Edge Comp for ten years and the switched to Quadzilla for 2 more years. Being I running the Quadzilla now I can tell you that fuel temperature and IAT temperature are typically within about 5 degrees of each other. Fuel temp wise I typically never get much over 130*F with summer temperatures over 100*F. The whole heat soak thing is a myth too. It does not rise up after the key is turned off and fuel pump stops. As for limited pedal typically that is an ECM problem.

I can say... RV275 +50 HP Injectors (Vulcan Performance) +75 HP Injectors (DAP) None of them have caused me any serious issues. Yeah, I've broke a mainshaft in my transmission but everyone agrees it was a shaft defect the way it broke. RV275s are a nice bump in power but still considered a stock injector being it was used in ISB Cummins in RV applications. Now my +50 HP I had really good MPG's and good power but back then I was running an Edge Comp so my problem was smoke control. Now with the +75 HP I've got excellent power so far and the Quadzilla Adrenaline gives me great fuel to boost control and smoke is really controlled and I can build different tuners for different reasons. 7 x 0.010 Injectors (next) I'm planning in the future to get the 7 x 0.010 injectors and setting the pop pressure for 315 to 320 bar compared to stock at 310 bar. I've got to keep the truck reliable for the reason of keeping MoparMom going back and forth to dialysis treatments. Being that is said I've been studying different factors like gearing, tires sizes, timing, injectors. So as I learn more I keep adding to the website.

Ok. More to add to Spencer's post... Like myself, I've got the warm-up mode set for 140*F which is more than enough. Allows me to get off OEM timing maps sooner. WARNING: If you have high idle flash enabled on the ECM be careful you don't enable both Quadzilla and 3 CYL at the same time. You can disable the ECM high idle by selecting MPG mode but at the same time, this will disable the PRE-heat phase of the grid heaters. This will prevent the ECM high idle from ever starting being it requires IAT temps below +32*F to start its software. I also use the Quadzilla high idle as well. On hot days it nice to just set level ZERO and wait the delay time and high idle kicks in instantly. The improves the compressor function and helps draw a bit more air through the condenser helping cool the cab faster. Another way to use it is having to jumpstart another vehicle you can do the same thing set Level ZERO and high idle kicks in and holds the alternator up for charging the dead vehicle. Like another member @AH64ID here advised me not to use the exhaust brake for warm ups. This has been found to push more carbon into the oil. Be aware that if you absolutely need that fast warm up you can use it but also be aware of the amount of carbon you'll be pushing into the oil. Ultimately the best way to warm your Cummins up is to start it and get rolling as quickly as you safely can without making it dangerous to yourself or others.

First of the AC noise is created by a bad diode in the alternator. Remember all vehicles have this issue. Watch this video... Doesn't matter. AC noise can be generated on both planes. There is a ground wire mod for fixing this somewhat. The alternator diode failure stems from the grid heater. It places a huge electrical load on the alternator while the truck is idling eventually the diodes overheat and fail. It best to disconnect the grid heater in the summer time and reduce the loading on the diodes. Hence why I sell the diode packs for the Denso alternators.

Most likely. But on my travel of US-95 back and forth I see more diesel pickups and the new Ford pickups.

This must of change since my last time I look into to this about 2 to 3 years ago. I know the Prius is not a pure electric car I see then so damn much down around Boise - Ontario area. That why I start to read about them a bit. Like I said last time I really studied deep on the batteries on them I was finding two different models pure electric sold in the EU and gas/electric hybrid in the US. Where could I find one of these pure electric cars to even look at? Seems like when I go even into town pick up stuff from the local shop see the same ol' gas/electric hybrids never seen a pure electric vehicle yet. I'm willing to go out and learn and at least go look at one to understand. Being I'm down in Ontario, OR all the time.

I'm talking strict battery alone distance no fueled engine. I know that strictly EV vehicle are illegal to be sold here in the US being there is a completely different story in other countries. When I was poking around for information on Toyota Prius and distance travel strictly on battery I was totally shocked I figured they had more distance. I was studying about the Prius batteries and design. That where I found that 11 miles note but now I can't find it again.

Last tidbit I read on Pirus the average distance the car can run on battery alone is only 11 miles on average if the batteries are top notch. I would even make it to the closest town of Riggins, ID its 15 miles and New Meadows, ID is 20 miles away with gain in elevation of 1,000 feet from home to the town. Like Nick post about racing quarter mile is sure impressive for speed. Now distance travelled on a single charge is well rather pathetic. So now if it could make it to town be charged up again and load it with groceries and haul home it would struggle to make it back because of added weight. When I stock up I stock up big. I hate running back and forth a bunch of times. I'm not down with electric anything.

You just reminded me I've got a stove project for my house I need to move my stove in the basement and turn it so the blower is pointed towards the stairs up. I've always hated where the stove guy put it way too far from the wall and doesn't need 19 inches of air space for a double wall stove plus heat shield wall.