Mopar1973Man

No. Experiemental testing.

Suggest looking into the Quadzilla Adrenaline... Skip the Quad XZT. Way better tunning abilities and way better control of fuel, boost and timing. If the injectors have over 100k miles time to just replace them.

Like my new thread and the study of smaller tires. More to come... Like on the 2002 Dodge I'm pretty sure I'm going to change to the 245's vs 235's. On my 1996 Dodge I'm sure I'll jump for the 215/85 R16. Smaller the footprint the more pounds per square inch you get. So like on my truck front axle is 4,440 pounds so that's 2,220 pounds per tire. Then measure out the contact patch. Then you can figure out the pound per square inch of force down.

Not hard at all. I've run both the mechanical gauges which are just tubing for the boost and fuel pressure and then the electric gauges now. I prefer the electrics for the ease of install versus all the tubing worry about leaks and so people get carried away with stainless steel lines. I ran air brake lines for quite long time on my old mechanical gauges no issues. Now with my ISSPro EV2 electric gauges been troublefree. I like the idea of the programmable warning light and the programmable relay option. An example would be automatic transmission truck has the warning light set for 220*F and then the relay set for 190*F so it turns on a cooling fan up front. Like I've set up a remote sensor mount. This way if I'm questioning the pressure reading I can easily remove the sensor add a tee now stack in a mechanical gauge to verify the reading. This is much easier set up than the typical person that has the sensor in the intake manifold for boost and down at the VP44. The distance from the fuel source is a dampening effect and protects the sensor from damage. Even this setup is using 1/8" air brake line and PTC (Push To Connect) fittings with 5 feet of distance from the tap point.

Like me... Our fans normally don't lock up fully till about 205 to 208*F coolant temperature. The has to sustained temperature to get enough heat on the thermostatic coil to pull the fan to lock up fully.

When I fire up I'm running 6 hours. I travel 250 to 300 mile in a day for the last nearly 2 years. Even in the past my average distance per run day was at least 100 miles.

You might switch up and watch Pyro 1. Lets check and see if the large tires are not building more heat. Like myself I'm studying the effect of using smaller tires. IBMobile is right check for debris.the common spots is the bottom half typically can get block and you can't see it.

5.9L V8 gasser with 46RE transmission with 3.55 gears.

A matter of fact I just checked my oil yesterday and its still between full and the add marks. Black but oh well the engine still spins and makes that Cummins music I listen to for over 6 hours a day. Another way I look at oil and filters. Look at your big over the road trucks and what they run and the trucks go for long distances without failures. If it works for the bigger Cummins series engines there is no reason it won't work for the smaller ISB engines.

Yeah, I know that... LOL

What is your EGT's like? What size tires are you running? What temperature thermostat are you running? Where did you buy the thermostat?

Yeah, it is the door sticker size. Mine was sold with the 265's from the factory. I opted for the 235's to reduce steering wear and front axle wear. Which it did. Now I'm looking to gain a bit more by changing the ratio up. Instead of like 99% of the people here that go bigger like 285's, 35" inch and 37" inch tires I found that with 3.55 gears and 245's is an awesome setup. Here is a tweak I'm going to do to the 1996 Dodge. I found out it was manufactured with 245's as well but I'm going to switch that truck from the 235/85 R16 to 215/85 R16. That is the same as 245/75 R16 just an inch narrower. This will improve the MPG's on that truck and give better performance on snow-covered roads. That truck is about 2,000 pounds lighter than my 2002 Dodge and the wider tire tend to make it float on top of the slush and snow. The cruise RPM on that truck is too low and it struggles to pull in 4th gear.

I just got a pair of used 245/75 R16 tires from a friend. So I mounted them up on my old aluminum mags and mount the 245's on rear axle of the truck. They are a bit shorter in height. The gains are great! Engine load is reduced by 5% to 10% roughly. EGT's are about 50*F lower. Acceleration is way better and faster. Cruising RPM's are right about 1,960 RPM at 65 MPH. I've got to reset my cruise timing limit on the Quadzilla I need to drop from my current 25% to 20% it was holding cruise timing climbing about 2-3% grade. I'm going to document MPG usage as well in the coming days.

I had mine rebuilt by Module Master in Moscow, Idaho. Done right and not cut through the cover.

I done the best thing... ISSPro EV2 gauge with programmable warning lights. My fuel pressure gauge warning light comes on at 13 PSI.

That was a mistake. You want traction you want a smaller footprint. The smaller the footprint the more pounds per square inch you'll get for traction. So with the 285's you made it more to float now. Basically look at it this way if I was to walk out the deep snow I would sink. No put on snowshoes I can walk on top of the snow without sinking in. This way I've been keeping the 235's on my truck. Way better traction on most road conditions. Now with the 285's you going to have watch your tire pressures more.

Typically I do 120 foot pounds. Most tire shops are the same way using 120 foot pounds.

The only code that it would be is MAP sensor. That is the only sensor it bypasses. Most likely a bad boost fooler.

No, it won't. It about restriction the HY35W turbo is a 9cm2 exhaust housing max boost of 30-32 PSI where the HX35W is a 12cm2 exhaust housing and max boost of 35 PSI. Since the HY35W is more choked in the turbine housing its more prone to EGT issues regardless of the exhaust pipe size. Exhaust after that point has zero bearing being I ran 3-inch exhaust for over 12 years on HX35W turbo. Even upgrading to 4inch exhaust there was no EGT's change at all really. The biggest thing to lose EGT's is being able to advance timing with Quadzilla. Running about 19-21* worth of cruise timing I can cruise at 55 MPH at as low as 450*F EGT's and 65 MPH at about 550*F EGT's. Still in all 3 or 4 inch exhaust nets the same EGT's values and there is no real gain to 5 inch till you over 600 HP. Like I've got two turbos The stock HX35W (54/60/12) which stands for 54mm compressor wheel, 60 mm turbine wheel and 12cm2 housing. Then I've got the Hybrid 35/40 (60/60/12) which is close to most people favorites like a (62/68/12). As you can see they all are 12cm2 exhaust housing but flow rates are greatly improved. As for rebuild kits you can get them for good price from DAP. (DieselAutoPower.com) .

I think that is the limit right about there at about 10k...

I find that using the calculated method you can tweak the pressures and get more from your tires. Like my calculated front axle is 58 PSI and rear 37 PSI. For more traction, you reduce both pressures by 5 PSI. So now the front is 53 PSI and rear is 32 PSI. Another example on the scales with the RV.

The timing values should be a spread of +3 per band starting at 16 is a good place. Something to be aware of as IAT Temperatures rise you need to retard timing. As IAT falls then you can advance timing. The only time this rule change is with the cetane rating of the fuel if cetane is high then you need to retard some regardless of the IAT. Because high cetane fuel ignites easy and quick so heavy advancement with high cetane is counterproductive.

Still single and unmarried. Try again.

Tire pressures? Very common for people to overinflated their tires. I'm betting that you have your rear axle overinflated. Softer tires gain traction much better. You might want to check out this article.

Excuse me?!?!?!