Mopar1973Man

Purely on cost of operation. Being the amount of CR engine I deal with now and the amount of people parking their trucks them because they can't afford the $3000 for injectors. I've got 3 truck in the area all with injector issues and owners can't afford the replacement. One owner I've warned several times with the grid heater light on he's now getting a build up of blow by. I continue to hear the same thing he can't afford the injectors. Economy and incomes out here are much much lower than you think. CR Cummins... Just for stock Bosch Injectors. ($3,228.00 - Stock Bosch) https://smartyresource.com/store/product/65-new-045-07-stock-bosch-injectors/ 24V Cummins... I could replace my injectors every 100k miles and by the time I hit a million miles, I would spend the same amount as a CR engine at 100k miles for one set of injectors. ($349.00 - 7 x 0.0085 +75 HP injectors) https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-75hp-aftermarket-performance-injectors-7x0-0085-vco-vp7x85vcoa

That's only 1 state out of 50 states. Screw Cally... I was smart and jumped ship from Cally to Idaho back in 1989.

Curious... Your thinking a possible thrust plate issue where the bolts have walked loose?

Mopar1973Man-> <-Dripley I need those "junk yards" to keep my old stuff on the highway till 500k miles.

We've got a solution to that...

That ground doesn't matter. That is the lift pump and fuel heater ground. After having @IBMobile here and him explaining it to me it's really easy. Start by pull the alternator fuse. Now you've got the alternator charge line and the ground wire running together across the front of the engine basically split the loom open and remove the alternator charge line completely. Then about the same place you'll see the splice of the grounds for the VP44 and ECM come together. This splice is where you cut the heavy 4 guage off and ring terminal to the gear case. Now the alternator charge line is going to go from the alternator to the passenger battery (no fuse) just like a 3rd Gen truck. the heavy ground is completely removed and splice added at the gearcase beside the VP44. Then you can add a ground from the driver side battery to the gearcase. So when you're done you'll only have a high pressure sensor for the A/C and the coolant temp sensor in the loom going around the front of the engine. The split loom will need to be replaced because two heavy gauge wires are gone. That it in a nutshell... I'm going to see if I can round up the supplies today and get this done as well.

One small step. Need to make a small donation to the site to aid in paying for the bandwidth usage. https://mopar1973man.com/donate/ Then the download area unlocks. https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/8-dodge-ram-factory-service-manuals/

Just bump the starter and the lift pump will run 25-30 seconds. (Reprime program).

https://www.trucks.com/2017/10/03/cummins-achates-advanced-tech-military-diesel-engine/ I would be awesome design but as long as the fuel system is not common rail. There I can see piston ring and cylinder failure quite quickly.

Yes, they will start and run with ZERO fuel pressure. It's possible the fuel pump already cooked the ECM in the past. You'll need to test the power and see if the pump is getting power when you bump the starter. Grounds have nothing to do with the transmission issue. Most like governor pressure sensor and solenoid are bad but you have to read the articles and do the testing to find out.

Yeah you needed to go up.

You might read over my tire find... Huge improvement to acceleration dropping from 31" tires down to 30" tires which now give me the final ratio of about 3.69 to 1 to the ground. I'm so quick now I'm whipping 4th gen on the city streets. I'm liking the 245/75 R16 profile and plan on switch the 1996 Dodge over to 215/85 R16 which is the same 30 inch tire but 8 inch wide face.

Welcome to the family... Look like you might have several things gone on here. I might suggest you break it down a bit and well sort this mess out for you.

Blower resistor is easy to pull out and check. If the ceramic is cracked or damaged just replace it. Blower relay can be tested by trading with something else. If the problem goes away then the relay was damaged. Blower fuses can be swapped with other fuses to check for cracks or issues. Blower only work in high speed the resistor is damaged. If the blower only randomly works it might be bad brushes or damaged armature.

Let me help you out... If you want to tag somone @snowbird just throw a @ down and start to spell there name. Then pick the person from the list. This way the person is notified of to tag. Keeps people talking then... LOL. I'm doing that today. Replacing a track bar and doing an oil change. I've got to get back down and load it up with oil and fresh filter. I know what you're saying I've hurt my back years ago but I continue to do this kind of work typically solo. I always figure out ways of getting the job done without killing myself or getting hurt. But in the same breathe I've also got to admit I'm taking care of MoparMom as well. She is 82 as of June this year and still going. Like you said age is only a number and you can do what you want to do. I will have to totally agree here. When you down on your luck and you don't have a lot of money you learn how to make do with next to nothing. After visiting that place I've learned how to keep from getting there again. But I've also learn all kind of tricks on fixing vehicles and other machinery from other old time farmers and ranchers. I always loved to listen to the old tales of early 1900's.

That bad news... AirTex does fine for pressure typically but the volume rating is poor.What happen is idle pressure is good and high but under heavy load it still fails low below 10 PSI typically. Then that power requirement is placed on the ECM directly without a lift pump relay to protect the ECM from direct short or locked rotor.

I've seen cracked fuse work randomly. Also same goes with relays. So fuse wise I've had a starter relay fuse crack and it randomly start or not start. Same goes for the horn relay I've had it work most of the times then quit. I've never bothered with that ground. But the main ground for the entire dash is in the driver side kick panel.

As you see we've got a few seniors in the pile. One day soon I'll be in that bracket...

Need a gauge... (Priority!) Most low pressure light come on a 3 to 5 PSI which is way too low. You should keep at least a minimum of 14 PSI as a bottom pressure no more than 20 PSI is needed.

Better also ask if they glued the rubber roof down. Other than that it's going to bubble back up and rip.

I've still got to do this mod on my truck. Simple enough to do but need to get the supplies and just do it.

Nevermind your listing of definitions... Now read the diagnostic info for each one.

Welcome to the family... Just outside of Boise Eh? There are a few members in that area down there.

There is 1 fuse in the PDC and a fuse in the cab for the blower. Then there is also a blower relay in the PDC as well.

The whole idea CNG is not going to be out here anytime soon. Too far to truck in the fuel and have storage locations that are forest fireproof. We are just lucky to have diesel fuel out here. When I bought my diesel back in 2002 I was seriously worried about diesel fuel supply being there was only a few stations at the time which now is just a few stations being some have gone out of business or very unreliable. To this day even propane is limited even out here and no you not allowed to pump your propane either. CNG that is going to be a big PITA to bring to an area like this. Just for fun I still live in an area without cell service for miles. There is people in this area without city power to this day... CNG I highly doubt it will become any real fuel supply out here.