Mopar1973Man

Talk to Eric at Vulcan Performance he sells that stuff for fuel lines and connectors.

That's right darn 6 speed...

Not sure yet. The video above is how to test for it. Basically, pull the Fuel Pump Relay in the PDC this shuts down power to the VP44 so it never starts. Now you can crank on it and watch the fuel pressure gauge and see what is going on. But... Sadly you don't have a fuel pressure gauge to verify with.

I should get you two @trreed and @Scottfunk build a differential article showing how to do this. (Hint!)

Not good. I would leave the power wires hooked to +12V and ground not switching. You most likely dropping all fuel pressure while running. I would get a fuel pressure gauge first thing and then once you know fuel pressure you might find out it just too high and no wiring mods will be needed.

I know from measuring from the fill hole at the very edge to the gear teeth could rise almost another 20-30 degrees. Much hotter near the gears than at the case edge. Now with a fast cooler on the side and farther away will make it inherently cooler temperature.

Just done the flush just last week. 350k miles... Still rolling with the OEM water pump and radiator. Heat core replaced once not from scale failure but I found a crack in the water neck that was weeping coolant. As I've documented my radiator and block condition now since new. Still to this day using only well water or creek water never used distilled water.

That is my question too! Something doesn't seem right. The ECM should be pulsing that fuel pump when it cranking.

Why I don't like the fast coolers. If you look the probe is at the bottom of the case and farthest possible distance away from the gears where the heat is. The probe needs to be at the top of the oil where heat rises too and close as possible to the gears for accuracy.

How are you mathing the odometer? If you are using a percentage offset it will be errored. You have to use a GPS to get you odometer unless you have the revs/mile flashed to the ABS computer.

Kept the stock filter can you'll find that there is still quite a bit of debris that gets pas a Donaldson filter 3um. So you need to order a Big Line Kit from Vulcan performance to re-instate the stock filter can. 60k filter change. Stock on the left and Airdog on the right. 15k mile filter change is a waste... Be aware that are the "Dollar Store" of gauges... Accuracy is low and failures are high.

Now on my last pull towing the RV home using 245's tires I kept my transmission temperature down to the 160-170*F realm. No fast coolers and only using 50 SAE gear lube. My typical high is about 190*F towing trailers and running highway speeds trailers can range from a 7x12 filled with heavy firewood to 31 foot Jayco RV but pulling on mountain roads with grades up to 7% typically. Normal average is 140-160*F empty run on a 100-110*F outside temperature. Another thing I've learned is the fluid is hotter on top (where the heat rises to) than at the bottom. So don't use the probe hole of the fast coolers. This gives a false cooler reading because it's so far from the gear teeth which is where the heat is generated in the gearbox. Like I've got mine on the passenger side fill hole with about a pint extra fluid in to keep the sensor submerged. Being the exhaust side of the case is the hottest and the top is where the heat rises too.

Actually, this is stacked in with the Airdog relay to cut the power to the fuel pump during cranking. So basically when the starter is running the relay opens the power wire to the lift pump. Typically the ECM does this for you by pulsing the power wire 50/50 and this causes the fuel pressure to fall during cranking.

Easy. Cut it so its flat to the bottom like you see mine with a thickness of one quarter (coin). No quarter tank issues. The fact is you need to the measurement with an empty tank because as the tank empties the bottom rises up to the straw closing the gap. So keeping better than a half tank of fuel open the gap between the tip of the straw. This allows the straw to pick up every drop of fuel. Being that diesel is typically 6.1 pounds per gallon this places 106.75 pounds on the tank bottom at half tank, and only 53.37 pounds at a quarter tank, then 26.68 pounds at a 1/8 of a tank as you can see the plastic would deflect upwards to the straw again. As for the sump be careful offroad you can swipe that sump off the bottom of the tank ruining both the tank and the sump both. Leaving the truck stranded until you find a new fuel tank. Let say some local boys here learned the lesson for us.

Simple solution. Test the alternator for excessive AC noise measure the AC voltage at the BATT post of the alternator and ground. You might end up replacing the alternator diodes or alternator completely. Now do the W-T ground mod. Or the simple version...

Need a fuel pressure gauge. Typical cranking pressure for me is 7-12 PSI. Normal idle pressure is 17 PSI and WOT is 15 PSI. I would have never installed the sump bad idea. Just wait till the sump start leaking the only solution will be to replace your fuel tank and they are very hard to find. Not to mention some areas consider bottom draw illegal might check your local state laws. If sumps were legal all the newer trucks would have had them installed from the factory. I've been using the old school drawstraw now for over 13 years and 250k miles and ZERO issues. Not a good idea. If the alternator fuse blows it will wipe out the fuel pump because the alternator will ramp up to well over 48 volts when the PCM no longer sees charging voltage. Airdog should be hooked up to the PDC BATT terminal. This way you not hooked up to the batteries direct with corrosion issues but as close as possible to the battery. The ground I use a body bolt for a ground.

New fires... Island Bar Fire started yesterday on the Salmon River. Vehicle-caused growing rapidly. Basically running down the east side mountain range. Sad part this burned 3 years ago with the Teepee Springs fire. Then Midvale, ID has a fire currently burning. Council, ID has a fire burning. Banks, ID is burning yet. Not good, it's smoke everywhere and still hot as hell without ice water. Resources are very limited. Our Fire Dept was going to demob last night from the Rattlesnake fire. Kind of a good thing having the resources back and ready to jump on the next call. I've got to talk to the fire chief about a few truck repairs.

Give Jon a call and talk to him he's got a bunch of mods like oil cooling holes drilled in the case and clutch mods to make it more bulletproof.

Should of the HX35 turbo on for those injectors. You don't need a turbo till you get to about +100 HP for injectors. 7 x 0.010 would be a good start for that current turbo.

Talk to @Dynamic he does rebuild kits.

Same here boost pressure is skewed above 20 PSI. Then EGT is about 50F high on the Quadzilla compared to my ISSPro EV2.

Ummm... Well yes and no... Some trees will torch and if there is no pitch trail on the bark typically the tree does OK as long as the temperature doesn't exceed 140*F that is the kill temperature of the needles. So if the fire has short flame lengths and moving long the ground slowly then most likely the trees will survive. Now if it was like the IA (Initial Attack) there was trees torching up and would light up the valley like the sun came back up at 1am. Within about 1 minute the glow would fade back to black.

You are doing the right thing by having the Quadzilla checked out. Being the truck is running fine without issues with the Quadzilla removed.

Shows how far my sense of humor has fallen off since the smoke is affecting my brain cells and lack of sleep.