Mopar1973Man

Bearing failed for the pulley. Low on oil that's for sure. Should of been about 5 to 6 ounces come out of the compressor. Just like @JAG1 he's got to recharge his A/C on his one truck the compressor is cycling way too much.

Expansion of the fluid. Might want to pull the plug and check your fluid level and fluid color. It could be foaming up on you too.

Stump on the red fir was not my cut it was already down. Now as for the area we scan the area and found a widowmaker hung up in another tree making the area unsafe for work. Being the last time I was out wood cutting was like 3 years ago. My buddy girl friend her Dad is logger as well she like just fall the Pondera Pine into the widowmaker and your area is safe. My cut wasn't the greatest but I managed to smack the widowmaker square on and put it on the ground. Made our work area safe but gave us more wood to play with next time. Sorry no photo of that...

I know I've got to redo my set up. I've got to pull my bumper soon to re-work the plastics and then I'm going to pull the two pieces out of the bumper holes. Create a bracket extension and tuck my PIAA's back in deeper. The plastic trim in the bumper holes in just a PITA for making anything aftermarket to fit.

Nice batch of red fir out of the black forest. We've even got our eyes on a few pines for next time. Looks like a short load but since Kelly mounded the pile tall in the front it's actually a solid 2 cord load really. Sad part is the soot and carbon dust is nasty.

Timing for sure. You need to pull back some timing in that RPM range that it popping.

That's even worse. I would just ditch them. The PIAA's I've got are damn bright for 18w worth of LED light.

Welcome to the Cummins family. 2nd Gen stuff we've got plenty but now as for 3rd Gen we can use some help.

Even my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 states in the owners manual 6,000 miles.

3 CYL is basically used for fast warm up. 6 CYL can be used for any time you need high idle for other power accessories like maybe a winch or other heavy electrical loads. Warm up or cool down of the cabin. Jump-starting vehicles. The original design was because of working with the fire dept and need to keep the idle up for the alternator and all my emergency lighting. Then if we had people at the scene that we needed to keep warm or cool the truck was capable of keeping the cabin temperature much better than normal curb idle where engine temperature could fall quite a bit with a heater going.

Yes Sir... 046 and 461... The Twins...

You know what I'm going to do today??? (Screaming Beaver Time!)

@leety All the acronyms with dotted underline if you hover over it with your mouse it will show what the acronym stands for.

Pull the plug and see if oil comes out. Pretty simple.

CR Injectors just assume to have $3,000 ready every 100k miles. The last truck I had her at 112k miles it ate the engine. Numbers 5 and 6 ate the pistons and rings. Won't run but required a full engine rebuild. I got a pup in town with a 2006 truck I keep warning him that the grid heater light being on is a warning for bad injectors and excess return flow rate you need injectors. Nope still driving it... I'm just waiting for another meltdown or runaway. This is one reason I'm hanging on tight to my 24V. At least VP44 are just $1,000 buck every 250k miles and injectors are cheap at $400 for a set. People whine about how bad it was and VP44 dropping dead, blah, blah, blah... Now the 24V doesn't look too bad.

There are a few oil plugs on the driver side of the engine. I think there is a few more drains back in the pan over there too. You'll see the raised casting where the oil pressure sensor is at there should be another oil port with a plug there.

Inverter. That is a Trace 24-volt 4kw inverter. I'm talking normal lead acid batteries like automotive or like in my house power system. Normal lead acid batteries do not hold up as well for long extended periods without charging. I've done similar on my RV had it parked for the entire winter without any power. It still had 12.6 volts when I flip on the master switch. Still not good to leave batteries idle without some sort of maintenance charge. Even my house system the charge setting from city power is set to the lowest 1 Amp AC. The rest is provided from either solar or hydro power sources. Currently, my hydro generator is offline till I rewire the back into the house again. Daily I get 10-15 Amp DC @ 26.8 Volts charge from the solar panels. No lead acid battery is designed to be left to rest long period without self-discharging. More documents explaining self-discharging of batteries. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/elevating_self_discharge

http://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/charging_the_lead_acid_battery Basically, there are 3 levels of voltage for charging. Float charge, Bulk charge and Equalize Charge. Our truck can handle the float and bluk charge rates with the battery temperature sensor and the PCM voltage regulator. This is why our truck typically have good battery lifespans for a daily driven truck. No for a truck that is going to be stored over a week or more I highly suggest opening the fuse panel in the driver side of the dash and pulling the fuse outward in the yellow clips. These are disconnect fuses that prevent batteries from drain from other devices. This now being said any vehicle that is being stored for even longer like months I highly suggest you just pull the batteries out. You need to charge then at least once a week. No battery can be left in storage for long periods without some self-discharging occurring. They all do it. Newer the battery typically the longer the battery will hold up. As sulphation builds on the plates from cycling this will shorten the storage time. This is where the equalize charge comes in. This will change back some of the sulphation back to lead plate material and keep the batteries longer. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/equalizing_charge

Might ask @Me78569 on how long his Spicer ball joints lasted. I can say less than a year. As for Moog lifetime warranty they are no longer American made. Basically China junk why they are now lifetime warranty. There was a reason why I said what I did... Moog is no longer a quality product. Too many people end up replacing quickly afterwards.

This is why I buy only one type of grease and continue to use the same grease for the majority of the stuff on the property. Typically buy the SuperTech Red grease. Buy both the grease gun cartridge as well as the can for packing bearings again.

In this case you do each battery separate for the Cummins. As for this is done all ganged.

Might have to call him on that... I know I got a seal kit for my old box but the rust was so bad. I sent as a core. I know he can do seal kits. The contact info everything is in his forum area. If you post over there it should bring him to the site.

Being I'm using the level 7 part of my daily tune being about 0.75 to 1.00 gallons off doesn't bother me one bit. What is neat I can roughly math out my fuel mileage on the fly. look at the Quadzilla and at 1 gallon I should be at roughly 20 Miles. 2 gallons at 40 miles and on up. This is for aiming the 20 MPG mark. Level 3 I'm within about 0.1 to 0.2 of a gallon typically.

Equalize charging is typically done when the battery is being topped off with distilled water once a month. Equalize charge does a few things first off it does overcharge the batteries this controlled overcharge stirs the distilled water into the electrolyte (acid) to prevent stratification of the distilled water and electrolyte. Then the high voltage does convert a percentage of the sulphation of the lead plates back into solution to gain more plate function back. This is typically done on lead-acid batteries. I highly suggest you do not do this with any seal gel cell or AGM battery most likely you will do damage or shorten the life of the battery.

Here you go now that I'm at home... https://mopar1973man.com/forum/195-blue-top-steering-gear/