Mopar1973Man

Double the mileage. Those are still new. Being you just double the size of the filter I'm betting that you'll go well past 60k miles. Now remember these are the tiny AirDog filter nothing like your huge FASS filter and clearing 60k miles. Double stacked. Here is stock rate... As you can see stock filter change interval a waste. The filter is still white and clean. 60k miles later... Now they look dirty. No pressure loss.

Any coolant related pitting is caused from not flushing the system and renewing the coolant often enough. I'm at 345k miles and still have a spotless radiator and block. You have to remember every time you crank these engines over cold in the morning you sending 500-700 Amp through the block and charging the coolant a little every time. So now the pH balance now starts to drift off on the acidic side which now starts pitting any metal parts. Funny part I've been using cheap SuperTech coolant now for the life of the truck and nothing but creek water or well water. Never had a since issue. I've seen several trucks with factory coolant and they bought into to that lifetime coolant idea or extended life coolant idea and now biting them in the rear end. Coolant typically last about 50k to 75k miles and needs to be changed. You going to most likely say it looks fine. Wait till the last gallon comes out typically it darker and sometimes has sediment (dissolved cast block).

Might ask @Me78569 ... I'm pretty sure he was set up close to you. You'll have to update to V2 tunning to get the most.

Time to grease those brake pads... (You know I'm just joking right?!) Seriously, I've got to ask what type of brake shoes are you using? If you are using too aggressive of a shoe material it might be creating a grabby condition like some of the clutches can. Might consider changing shoes out for some baseline generics if you are using any kind of premium brake shoes.

That's why I went to electric gauges. I've had liquid line failures in the past with cheap nylon tubing. Air Brake Tubing was a good solution but tired of the constant battle of adjusting the needle valve to prevent gauge buzzing (gauge damage from water hammer pulses). Ummm... Idaho has 110-115*F temperatures too. Riggins Idaho sees these kinds of temperatures in the summertime. The way I'm set up with ISSPro EV2 I've got my sensor in a very easy spot for testing. I can stack on a mechanical gauge and test for accuracy and then return to the electric alone. So then if I want to dampen the needle of the gauge and take an average or do I want to see every bit of pressure change? ISSPro EV2 does have a setting in the programming that allows you to set the hysteresis of the needle swing.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PHI1293064 You will need the proper sex and tubing size. I know they have both male and female fittings and both ends at 1/8" NPT and tubing... Need to unhook the tube just push the collar up and release the tubing. Then just push the tube back in the fitting and it self locks.

If you use Push to Connect fittings and 1/8" Air Brake line you won't have any issues. Air Brake line is good for like 600 PSI burst strength rated for both oil and fuel contact. Push to Connect fittings work really well and so far mine have lasted over 4 or 5 years.

Raptor DDRP - No... Raptor Yes... (Frame mount) ISSPro EV2 series matches the stock dash in design. Even USB programable.

Personally, I wouldn't suggest any DDRP pumps. The problem is none of them upgrade the stock plumbing then all them end up hooking directly to ECM and have no protection relay added. As I replied that @IBMobile could talk him through it.

Should be in the article section under 24V fuel.

OMG you guys...

You might want to talk to @Me78569 and @jlbayes between these two I'm sure you can you answers.

Cut them both open! Seriously, you'll learn something if you examine the filter media. Like my water separator I've been rinsing out and re-using. The marking and paint is disappearing. Like my last filter, I cut open at 60k miles for the year and it was still "OK" the media color was still visible but darken heading towards black.

Exactly. This is a summation of all blowby in the engine. Like @jlwelding learned years ago you can have a cracked piston creating a misfire problem but still pass the blowby test even though the cylinder was dumping its compression in the crankcase. This is not a good way of measuring cylinder health. If you want to know the cylinder health you can do a compression test or leak down test. Most opt for the compression test being its easy to do. A typical engine should be 400-425 PSI in good shape.

You might want to get ahold of @IBMobile I'm sure he'd be willing to talk you through it.

If you going to be oversizing the filters I highly suggest you cut them open and see the condition of the media after your normal run time. Like I'm still running the small (or tiny) AirDog filter but Donaldson like @AH64ID suggest but I'm finding that about 50k to 60k miles before the media is truly discolored. The stock filter pickup some debris but it takes a bit to get it dirty too. I was finding that at 15k miles like manufacture suggest my filters look like they were new out of the box yet. I kept doubling the mileage and cutting the filters open. So my change interval is 50k to 60k range. So far all them at that point are just discolored not BLACK. You can still see the color of the media yet. (Either white or yellow). For something that big (physically) you might go well past 100k miles on filter changes. This is also based on if you getting clean fuel in the first place. If your getting cheap fuel or raiding farm fuel tank you might be in a different ball park.

Also a AirDog owner. I just got a replacement pump head for the first time after 250k miles. No need for relay mod with a proper lift pump. Those from RockAuto have to use excessive pressure at the start to keep the volume up under load because of the small fuel lines and banjo's you've got stock. Me first before @dripley ... I can always use another 2nd Gen...

I'm going to bet you are right... https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2001,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1366602,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 Need to look at the AirDog or FASS fuel systems. Those on RockAuto don't resolve several problems. No protection relay to keep the lift pump load off the ECM. Stock fuel system plumbing is way too restrictive. Those lift pumps don't have enough volume to keep the VP44 lubed and cooled under heavy throttle.

I've got to ask what lift pump do you have installed?

Hit the nail on the head. Stock alternator is only 140 Amps. Even at that its possible ot overheat stock diodes with extended grid heater usage. Now increase the size of the alternator and you'll burn out the stock diode pack quicker. I've been hunting for oversized diodes for a long time that in the 180 amp realm. I've even called Nations and few other attempting to buy just the high current diodes from upgrade alternator to solve the AC noise issue. So far the best I could do is stock 140 Amp diode at least so people could rebuild there own alternators at a fraction of buying a chain store alternator that might fail.

I still laugh at that video. Dragging an empty fuel tank. How about full offroad use of the truck with a full fuel tank? Hmmm... Now take that sump and have it installed in a 8,000 pound truck with 35 gallons of fuel (diesel is 6.1 pounds per gallon equal to 213 pounds) now drive over a tree stump or large rock. I promise you that sump will disappear. When I'm grossing over 20,000 pounds I'm sure that little 1 bolt sump will snap off. I should post picture of the dent in my rear passenger side floorboard from running over logs and other things.

How about one of our vendors. https://www.dieselautopower.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=sealing+washers

Blow by some times is worried about too much. Serious blow by you will have something like this... You might want to upload a copy of your tune and members here can discuss the settings with you. Just having the timing wrong or the fuel curve set up wrong can limit the power. Another member was using boost limits and that cutting the fuel by 70% on the top end. So poor set up of a tune could possibly limit your power.

Did you try unhooking the lift pump just for test to see? The ECM has a way of controlling the lift pump by pulsing the power at 50% duty cycle off and on. This brings down the starting pressure of the lift pump to prevent the VP44 from over advancing the timing during cranking. Banjo bolt in the back of the head needs to have two fresh sealing washers installed too.

Got a fuel pressure gauge? If not install one. What is your cranking fuel pressure during this no start condition? Typical cranking fuel pressure is 7 to 12 PSI. Pressures above this can create hard starting or no starting conditions. To test from another way is unplug the power from the lift during a no start condition and attempt to start the engine. If it starts then the fuel pressure during cranking is too high. Replace the sealing washers. This might be a source of an air leak.