Mopar1973Man

I can say... RV275 +50 HP Injectors (Vulcan Performance) +75 HP Injectors (DAP) None of them have caused me any serious issues. Yeah, I've broke a mainshaft in my transmission but everyone agrees it was a shaft defect the way it broke. RV275s are a nice bump in power but still considered a stock injector being it was used in ISB Cummins in RV applications. Now my +50 HP I had really good MPG's and good power but back then I was running an Edge Comp so my problem was smoke control. Now with the +75 HP I've got excellent power so far and the Quadzilla Adrenaline gives me great fuel to boost control and smoke is really controlled and I can build different tuners for different reasons. 7 x 0.010 Injectors (next) I'm planning in the future to get the 7 x 0.010 injectors and setting the pop pressure for 315 to 320 bar compared to stock at 310 bar. I've got to keep the truck reliable for the reason of keeping MoparMom going back and forth to dialysis treatments. Being that is said I've been studying different factors like gearing, tires sizes, timing, injectors. So as I learn more I keep adding to the website.

Ok. More to add to Spencer's post... Like myself, I've got the warm-up mode set for 140*F which is more than enough. Allows me to get off OEM timing maps sooner. WARNING: If you have high idle flash enabled on the ECM be careful you don't enable both Quadzilla and 3 CYL at the same time. You can disable the ECM high idle by selecting MPG mode but at the same time, this will disable the PRE-heat phase of the grid heaters. This will prevent the ECM high idle from ever starting being it requires IAT temps below +32*F to start its software. I also use the Quadzilla high idle as well. On hot days it nice to just set level ZERO and wait the delay time and high idle kicks in instantly. The improves the compressor function and helps draw a bit more air through the condenser helping cool the cab faster. Another way to use it is having to jumpstart another vehicle you can do the same thing set Level ZERO and high idle kicks in and holds the alternator up for charging the dead vehicle. Like another member @AH64ID here advised me not to use the exhaust brake for warm ups. This has been found to push more carbon into the oil. Be aware that if you absolutely need that fast warm up you can use it but also be aware of the amount of carbon you'll be pushing into the oil. Ultimately the best way to warm your Cummins up is to start it and get rolling as quickly as you safely can without making it dangerous to yourself or others.

First of the AC noise is created by a bad diode in the alternator. Remember all vehicles have this issue. Watch this video... Doesn't matter. AC noise can be generated on both planes. There is a ground wire mod for fixing this somewhat. The alternator diode failure stems from the grid heater. It places a huge electrical load on the alternator while the truck is idling eventually the diodes overheat and fail. It best to disconnect the grid heater in the summer time and reduce the loading on the diodes. Hence why I sell the diode packs for the Denso alternators.

Most likely. But on my travel of US-95 back and forth I see more diesel pickups and the new Ford pickups.

This must of change since my last time I look into to this about 2 to 3 years ago. I know the Prius is not a pure electric car I see then so damn much down around Boise - Ontario area. That why I start to read about them a bit. Like I said last time I really studied deep on the batteries on them I was finding two different models pure electric sold in the EU and gas/electric hybrid in the US. Where could I find one of these pure electric cars to even look at? Seems like when I go even into town pick up stuff from the local shop see the same ol' gas/electric hybrids never seen a pure electric vehicle yet. I'm willing to go out and learn and at least go look at one to understand. Being I'm down in Ontario, OR all the time.

I'm talking strict battery alone distance no fueled engine. I know that strictly EV vehicle are illegal to be sold here in the US being there is a completely different story in other countries. When I was poking around for information on Toyota Prius and distance travel strictly on battery I was totally shocked I figured they had more distance. I was studying about the Prius batteries and design. That where I found that 11 miles note but now I can't find it again.

Last tidbit I read on Pirus the average distance the car can run on battery alone is only 11 miles on average if the batteries are top notch. I would even make it to the closest town of Riggins, ID its 15 miles and New Meadows, ID is 20 miles away with gain in elevation of 1,000 feet from home to the town. Like Nick post about racing quarter mile is sure impressive for speed. Now distance travelled on a single charge is well rather pathetic. So now if it could make it to town be charged up again and load it with groceries and haul home it would struggle to make it back because of added weight. When I stock up I stock up big. I hate running back and forth a bunch of times. I'm not down with electric anything.

You just reminded me I've got a stove project for my house I need to move my stove in the basement and turn it so the blower is pointed towards the stairs up. I've always hated where the stove guy put it way too far from the wall and doesn't need 19 inches of air space for a double wall stove plus heat shield wall.

Purely on cost of operation. Being the amount of CR engine I deal with now and the amount of people parking their trucks them because they can't afford the $3000 for injectors. I've got 3 truck in the area all with injector issues and owners can't afford the replacement. One owner I've warned several times with the grid heater light on he's now getting a build up of blow by. I continue to hear the same thing he can't afford the injectors. Economy and incomes out here are much much lower than you think. CR Cummins... Just for stock Bosch Injectors. ($3,228.00 - Stock Bosch) https://smartyresource.com/store/product/65-new-045-07-stock-bosch-injectors/ 24V Cummins... I could replace my injectors every 100k miles and by the time I hit a million miles, I would spend the same amount as a CR engine at 100k miles for one set of injectors. ($349.00 - 7 x 0.0085 +75 HP injectors) https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-75hp-aftermarket-performance-injectors-7x0-0085-vco-vp7x85vcoa

That's only 1 state out of 50 states. Screw Cally... I was smart and jumped ship from Cally to Idaho back in 1989.

Curious... Your thinking a possible thrust plate issue where the bolts have walked loose?

Mopar1973Man-> <-Dripley I need those "junk yards" to keep my old stuff on the highway till 500k miles.

We've got a solution to that...

That ground doesn't matter. That is the lift pump and fuel heater ground. After having @IBMobile here and him explaining it to me it's really easy. Start by pull the alternator fuse. Now you've got the alternator charge line and the ground wire running together across the front of the engine basically split the loom open and remove the alternator charge line completely. Then about the same place you'll see the splice of the grounds for the VP44 and ECM come together. This splice is where you cut the heavy 4 guage off and ring terminal to the gear case. Now the alternator charge line is going to go from the alternator to the passenger battery (no fuse) just like a 3rd Gen truck. the heavy ground is completely removed and splice added at the gearcase beside the VP44. Then you can add a ground from the driver side battery to the gearcase. So when you're done you'll only have a high pressure sensor for the A/C and the coolant temp sensor in the loom going around the front of the engine. The split loom will need to be replaced because two heavy gauge wires are gone. That it in a nutshell... I'm going to see if I can round up the supplies today and get this done as well.

One small step. Need to make a small donation to the site to aid in paying for the bandwidth usage. https://mopar1973man.com/donate/ Then the download area unlocks. https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/8-dodge-ram-factory-service-manuals/

Just bump the starter and the lift pump will run 25-30 seconds. (Reprime program).

https://www.trucks.com/2017/10/03/cummins-achates-advanced-tech-military-diesel-engine/ I would be awesome design but as long as the fuel system is not common rail. There I can see piston ring and cylinder failure quite quickly.

Yes, they will start and run with ZERO fuel pressure. It's possible the fuel pump already cooked the ECM in the past. You'll need to test the power and see if the pump is getting power when you bump the starter. Grounds have nothing to do with the transmission issue. Most like governor pressure sensor and solenoid are bad but you have to read the articles and do the testing to find out.

Yeah you needed to go up.

You might read over my tire find... Huge improvement to acceleration dropping from 31" tires down to 30" tires which now give me the final ratio of about 3.69 to 1 to the ground. I'm so quick now I'm whipping 4th gen on the city streets. I'm liking the 245/75 R16 profile and plan on switch the 1996 Dodge over to 215/85 R16 which is the same 30 inch tire but 8 inch wide face.

Welcome to the family... Look like you might have several things gone on here. I might suggest you break it down a bit and well sort this mess out for you.

Blower resistor is easy to pull out and check. If the ceramic is cracked or damaged just replace it. Blower relay can be tested by trading with something else. If the problem goes away then the relay was damaged. Blower fuses can be swapped with other fuses to check for cracks or issues. Blower only work in high speed the resistor is damaged. If the blower only randomly works it might be bad brushes or damaged armature.

Let me help you out... If you want to tag somone @snowbird just throw a @ down and start to spell there name. Then pick the person from the list. This way the person is notified of to tag. Keeps people talking then... LOL. I'm doing that today. Replacing a track bar and doing an oil change. I've got to get back down and load it up with oil and fresh filter. I know what you're saying I've hurt my back years ago but I continue to do this kind of work typically solo. I always figure out ways of getting the job done without killing myself or getting hurt. But in the same breathe I've also got to admit I'm taking care of MoparMom as well. She is 82 as of June this year and still going. Like you said age is only a number and you can do what you want to do. I will have to totally agree here. When you down on your luck and you don't have a lot of money you learn how to make do with next to nothing. After visiting that place I've learned how to keep from getting there again. But I've also learn all kind of tricks on fixing vehicles and other machinery from other old time farmers and ranchers. I always loved to listen to the old tales of early 1900's.

That bad news... AirTex does fine for pressure typically but the volume rating is poor.What happen is idle pressure is good and high but under heavy load it still fails low below 10 PSI typically. Then that power requirement is placed on the ECM directly without a lift pump relay to protect the ECM from direct short or locked rotor.

I've seen cracked fuse work randomly. Also same goes with relays. So fuse wise I've had a starter relay fuse crack and it randomly start or not start. Same goes for the horn relay I've had it work most of the times then quit. I've never bothered with that ground. But the main ground for the entire dash is in the driver side kick panel.