Mopar1973Man

As you see we've got a few seniors in the pile. One day soon I'll be in that bracket...

Need a gauge... (Priority!) Most low pressure light come on a 3 to 5 PSI which is way too low. You should keep at least a minimum of 14 PSI as a bottom pressure no more than 20 PSI is needed.

Better also ask if they glued the rubber roof down. Other than that it's going to bubble back up and rip.

I've still got to do this mod on my truck. Simple enough to do but need to get the supplies and just do it.

Nevermind your listing of definitions... Now read the diagnostic info for each one.

Welcome to the family... Just outside of Boise Eh? There are a few members in that area down there.

There is 1 fuse in the PDC and a fuse in the cab for the blower. Then there is also a blower relay in the PDC as well.

The whole idea CNG is not going to be out here anytime soon. Too far to truck in the fuel and have storage locations that are forest fireproof. We are just lucky to have diesel fuel out here. When I bought my diesel back in 2002 I was seriously worried about diesel fuel supply being there was only a few stations at the time which now is just a few stations being some have gone out of business or very unreliable. To this day even propane is limited even out here and no you not allowed to pump your propane either. CNG that is going to be a big PITA to bring to an area like this. Just for fun I still live in an area without cell service for miles. There is people in this area without city power to this day... CNG I highly doubt it will become any real fuel supply out here.

Time to test for alternator noise problems. Manuals are not excluded from this issue.

First off list all your error codes. As for the blower motor. There is a fuse in the PDC and then there is a fuse in the cab plus the relay in the PDC for the blower.

I think the deepest it can cut is 50%. I've never bothered to try. As for the 245's this next tank of fuel should be pretty good numbers.

Basically in a nutshell the delay is how long till the high idle starts. The temperature is the point in which high cancels. So I've got mine setup for 140*F and 60 seconds. If the engine is below 140*F and left idling more that 60 second high idle will be started.

I totally agree with that. I guess you are thinking like a train concept. 1 cylinder diesel engine driving an electric generator. Back charging batteries and also driving the vehicle as well.

Welcome to the Cummins family...

If I was in California I would take a rod and beat that piece of trash out. Then leave it as an empty can.

Dude... We all could have built your truck for you faster... Damn taking forever to build your truck.

Suggestion. Doing reloading with coolant. I typically leave the thermostat out and fill till the coolant just about ready to spill out. Then Install the thermostat. Not directed at you either... Just I've witnessed quite a few really "dumb moves" by people with diesel trucks. I tend to bring the worst cases to the table. I tend to be kept from saying "never" because there is always one out there dumb enough to reach for the stupid ring yet. Again not directed at you but just pointing out they are out there.

@AH64ID is right the 47RE is a 0.68 ratio in 4th. Compared to the manuals at 0.73 and 0.75 ratio. Exactly. You quickly find out the weakest link. Tall tires tend to trap torque in the driveline where the gear ratio is in hopes of releasing that torque to the tires but if the gears are of poor quality it might go SNAP!

Just pan over RockAuto there is so many brand name to work with Monroe, KYB, Mopar (OEM Replacement), Rancho, Gabriel, Bilstein...

I've got to ask what was the OEM engine that you replaced? If you did change years. You going to have to pull the cam from the old engine, the gear case and swap both.

California models had EGR valve and Catalytic converter.

Interesting...

Fine line... Like us, we enjoy the backcountry living which is typically quiet. Then one neighbor has to invite the entire neighborhood and bring out beer and booze and loud music... Then BOOM! I heard rumors of this neighbor possibly buying another piece of land and moving... Keeping my fingers crossed.

That is kinda flip flop topic there are times where the can be gain from the dropping a gear but there is most times it just plain wasteful running. Hard to explain. I understand what you saying excessively hold 4th for no good reason tend to be wasteful. Most of the gain s would be running 45 to 50 MPH on the old tire up Fort Hall. Above that you need to be in 5th again bounces back to traffic and road conditions. So far yes. Acceleration is way better. I can reach 4th as early as 30 MPH now no problem. Gear span is different with a bit better overlap compared to 235's / 265''s. Launching on 2nd gear is way easier on the clutch and just about leaps out there on its own. Even the 235's would do you fine. Same revs/mile. Like 235/85 (9 inches wide tire) R16 and 265/75 R16 (10-inch wide tire) are basically the same. Then 215/85 R16 (8 inch wide tire) is the same as 245/75 R16 (9 inch wide tire) My whole purpose is not for the cool factor but for any small gain I can get. Being the final ratio is so forgotten with all the big tire crazy and people don't pay attention to axle gearing then toss on 37" tire because it looks cool and wonders why they having issues. More I continue to drive this 250-mile lap course the more I understand about the road conditions I must travel. Being the entire trip from New Meadows to Ontario is all downhill that means the whole trip back is all uphill. Being you follow the Weiser River from New Meadows area all the way to Weiser ID. Since water doesn't run uphill that means the whole trip is downhill following the river. So understand that basic idea you need to have gearing that is suited for pulling that trip uphill and optimize the power for the engine. Now there is always that chance that this doesn't work out. Fine... I can just stick with 235's and continue. That why I'm running a pair of used tires on my old aluminum mags for the testing purpose. Nothing lost in the tires or anything. I'm hoping this gets to other that are considering larger tires to consider the gearing impacts of the current axle ratio and what the tires will produce for final ratio.

Some people blindly tow large loads with 37" tires with 3.42 gearing and hold their foot to the floor. No pyrometer. Seen this a few times where people are stopped along the road trying to cool down their truck. Like today here it just about reached 100*F and I know its even hotter in Riggins. Yeah, it does happen blindly assume the truck can handle the load with 37" tires. I've even seen a few burn down on Whitebird grade from this. Yes, it possible.